Manifold flange bolt/stud question

FASTLLS

FASTLLS

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Manifold flange bolt/stud question PICS!!

So I got the LS on the hoist today to start the custom exhaust.. Can someone tell me if the studs/blots, that connect the manifolds to the cats, just get pressed in, welded, or..? I can't get a good enough glimpse up there to see how they sit.. I want to make sure I can get them out of there if I snap on off (very likely).. I went down to the local Ford Stealership and they told me about 15 for the bolts/studs and 5 for the nuts.

PICS ARE AT THE BOTTOM..
 
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Damn I cant remember for the life of me, I believe they are pressed in, I broke one and had to drill it out and then put a bolt through the hole with a nut.
 
Thanks for the replys.. That's what the ford dealer quoted me.. He didn't have any in stock and said I would have to buy them if I ordered them.. I will probably break some off.. I put penetrating lube on there so I hope they will come off without too much swearing (yeaaa. right)..
 
Assuming that ford's part numbering system is correct, the v6 and v8 use the same stud HT1 but they use different nuts..? :confused: The v8's is HD1 and I can't remember what the v6's is.. If one breaks and I can get it out, I will try to get an aftermarket, but I will probably by a new one.. If I can't get it out, then I will try what you did and drill it out and replace with a nut and bolt..
 
Its a manifold and you cant have both at the same time LJ, I see RI schooling has taught you all but nothing.. I used a breaker bar by the way and he means the exhaust bolts where the collectors are, going into the cats.
 
Well started tackling it this morning.. I started at the drivers side first.. It came out like nothing.. Got to the pass. side and broke one off.. Yay.. not.. Anyways, I haven't tried the back ones yet because I ran out of time. My teacher thinks I would have to take the manifold off to drill them out.. I dont think you did that and I think (once the cats are gone), I should be able to get a drill up there pretty easily..
 
Well (since the car is on a hoist and easier to work under) I should be able to do that.. It's not like I broke a stud in the head so I didn't think it would be a problem.. Once I get the cats down, I will try to heat the area around it and screw (or at least try to) them out of the manifold.. If it's a no go, then I'll just drill them out.. The teacher likes to do everything exactly perfect.. Even if it costs 300 more.. As long as it works and is leak free, then I'm all good with it..
 
Went in early to school this morning.. I got another bolt off of the drivers side. So right now, the only thing that's left is getting one bolt out, drilling out the broken stud, and getting the new system in. I got a local quote for 120 for pipe and bending (compared to auto values 220 for pipe and miscellaneous bends). He does all mandrel bending. Which stud broke on you? Was it the one closest to the engine or the one closest to the floor boards? I broke the one closest to the engine on the pass. side and the other one on that side won't budge and may break off to.. It looks close on getting a drill on that one but if you did it then I will worry less on breaking it.. Special drill or plain? I have a 90 degree one that may work better.. Thanks for the help so far..
 
I broke one on the drivers side. Not exactly sure which one but there was plenty of room for a cordless drill to get up there. Do exactly as you stated and heat the other one that youve yet to get out, also try to tighten it a tad bit to "break" the rust build up. If none of that works, well, guess youll have to drill two out.
 
Thanks for the info.. I guess, if I can't get it off, that's what I'm going to have to do.. It has to be done one way or the other.. I soaked that thing down probably 10 times w/ PBBlaster so I don't think that today is going to be any better..

I woke up this morning and guess what I saw..
SNOW!!! :eek:

WTF!
 
Damn, its like 70 here already and Im in New England.. :confused: Fukken weather and Al Gore with his lies about global warming. Dont inhale the fumes while drilling that bolt out, I did it with PBBlaster and ended up in the hospital with a bloody throat from open lacerations. And no I dont have the herp..
 
LOL..
Here's some pics of my crappy experience..

BOLTS.. TWO UN-BROKE FROM DRIVERS OTHERS FROM PASS.
0409100954.jpg


PASS. SIDE MANIFOLD
0409100955.jpg


My teacher still wants to take that off.. I am going to try everything in my power to get them off w/o taking that off.. He's bringing in a stud extractor in Monday so we'll see how that works out.. If not, I think I can get a grinder in there to cut them off flush to drill them out.. Main thing is, they're out..
 
Don't you have torches in class? Those would have not broken and came off like budda if you torched them cherry red. That would have saved all this trouble and been done in minutes. My rule of thumb is always torch exh nuts no matter what.
 
Oh PS if those are cast manifolds(like my V6) you will have to torch them to get broken studs out. Mine where a bear even with heat and working them on the ground.
 
Also they make exh "C" clamps that are made to clamp exh back onto manifold. I have used these on a chevy and they worked 100%.
 
I used a crap ton of PBBlaster and heat.. We heated them up cherry red today and used a stud extractor (bit to big for the job) and it still wouldn't come out.. Also used the shock method (heat and cold water).. Like I said, he's bringing some tools in on Monday so I guess I'll see what he brings in and if it helps.. If not, I'm drilling them out..
 
FYI If heating till cherry red no need for PB blaster cuz it all gets burnt off anyway and nothing beats heat.
 
I sprayed PBBlaster after the day was done so that it would soak in and maybe eat away some of the rust. Then the next day try heat and it still wouldn't come out..
 
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