LS8 overheating... whats this piece called?

[RigsLS]

Sorry about that I'm posting from my phone galaxy blaze

Please don't say "Sorry"
Just though you needed a hand understanding how to post pics. On mobiles it can be a bit tricky indeed.

 

[956LS8]

Hey thanks bigrig. I have photobucket app i know i wouldnt have any trouble uploading pics from a pc butim hardly ever around one. So mobile web is what keeps me in touch with you all. Im loving this site. Very informative and every lincoln ls owner should know about

 

[956LS8]

Just ordered the parts last night from Fordpartsgiant. stay tuned. will be taking lots of pics of removal and install

 

[956LS8]

So i replaced that part. And im still overheating? Im stumped?

 

[jjcool00]

Did you follow the bleeding procedures?

 

[956LS8]

I think so. Put it all back together. open the purge hose next to Degas. run car till a, constant stream of coolant comes out?

 

[RigsLS]

Say tell me something, you replaced a large section inline on the engine cooling system,
so you had to have either kinked a hose or drained the system of coolant.

Were you able to open the cap from the T-stat housing which out anything cracking ?
(assuming you are still on the stock plastic parts)

and when you tied everything back together, you filled the coolant back up through the fill tube from the T-stat ?

then while cold, filled the Degas bottle to the brim ?

so now ... run it, crank open the heater core allow it to fill by means of turning the heat to MAX.
Allow the engine to operate at idle for 5 minutes, "heater air bleed" should be open still.

Close it when a steady stream comes from it.

Let it cool down, add coolant to bottle if needed, maintain level to fill at cold mark.

Reopen the heater air bleed to release any air (burp) and close again.

Start it back up again. rev the engine 2000rpm for a bit and verify hot air comes from the heater.
return to idle and verify hot air.

when cold again, fill to cold mark.

you may have to do this a few times to burp all the air out the system.
all the air needs to get out and some may be inside the heater core.

it's going to test you but keep at it.

when you have a steady stream, closed the bleed valve and have tons of hot air coming from the
vents and the engine does not increase in temp to point of overheat, you have SUCCESS.

 

[RigsLS]

crap, was trying to post or PM you the 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual - Cooling System Draining Filling and Bleeding.pdf but the system won't allow any pdf past 19K to be send/attached. (sad)

 

[joegr]

I think so. Put it all back together. open the purge hose next to Degas. run car till a, constant stream of coolant comes out?

No. You have to follow the exact procedure, exactly.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/

 

[956LS8]

Thanks guys. I'll get back on it after work.

 

[RigsLS]

Thing is when folks are adding new or more coolant to the system,
they should have the fill cap off at the T-stat fill neck and the degass bottle and the bleed valve open.

When adding coolant, pinch the upper and lower rad hoses ever so gently.
It will back gargle the air out, which can be seen at the fill neck.

Keep adding coolant to the fill next and listen for it to gargle and bubble through the system.

When it reached near full again, gently keep pinching and squeezing the rad hoses. It will fill the system
that much more and thus makes it easier to bleed when running the motor. (less air to circulate through)

Careful not to pinch or squeeze the rad hoses to quickly or firmly as coolant will overflow
at the fill neck and spill over onto the outside of the Thermostat housing, making a mess.


Just ever so gently add a little more coolant and keep pinching the hoses until the coolant is completely filled to the top.

Let it sit for a bit and ensure it doesn't drain down, must be kept full to the brim before the cap goes back on.

Any air trapped here ... will end up having to go through the system when you bleed so it's best to get all
the air out of the rad hoses and the coolant filled right to the top before the cap goes on.

 

[956LS8]

I'm probably gonna just do the jag aluminum upgrade.
Searching now, will post with progress pics...

Is it normal for car to.overheat during burping process. Say within 10 minutes?

 

[joegr]

...Is it normal for car to.overheat during burping process. Say within 10 minutes?

No.
Did you have the engine fill cap removed when you started to fill the degas bottle? If not, there is a lot of air trapped in the engine cooling passages.

 

[RigsLS]

I'm probably gonna just do the jag aluminum upgrade.
Searching now, will post with progress pics...

Is it normal for car to.overheat during burping process. Say within 10 minutes?

Hell no that is not normal. If you're overheating that quickly you have either a stuck thermostat problem or a lot of air in the system.


Engine coolant thermostat fill neck cap must be off and open, bleed valve open and Degas bottle cap off. Very first step is to add new fresh coolant to the degas bottle until it stabilizes with the fill neck. It should stay level in the degas bottle and then you move on to begin filling from the thermostat fill neck, pinching the rad hoses and keep on topping it up, at some point it should stop burping and draining down, then carefully fill it right to the brim flush before it leaks over, a little anti-seize on the outside threads of the fill neck, put the cap on, hand tighten and then allen key is a little. Don't over tighten. it can be tightened a little more after it's warmed up.

Now there is as little air as possible in between the degas bottle, thermostat, rad hoses, radiator, engine and now run it with the bleed valve still open and the degas bottle cap off. Going to begin pushing it through to the interior heater core and outlet tube back into the degas bottle, all air will travel through with it and escapes through the bleed valve. At one point or another the degas cap will have to go back on before you start increasing the RPMs,
when it gets up to temp the pressure begins and eventually the thermostat opens and circulates the colder coolant through, mixing in with the already in system hot coolant.


Close the bleed valve when a steady stream is present. Should already have warm to hot temps coming from the console vents. run the DATC in floor mode only for fastest results.

Let is cool down, add coolant to degas bottle to cold mark if needed.

Start it back up again and increase the RPM up to temp and should be no overheating and full heat of the console vents while in heat mode.

at least this is how it worked out for me and I managed to bleed it the first time, one time only, full heat, no overheating and actually a little over the cold mark when cold. (may have to remove some but I still have to go for a good rip on the highway)

No.
Did you have the engine fill cap removed when you started to fill the degas bottle? If not, there is a lot of air trapped in the engine cooling passages.

That's right! fill degas bottle until stabilized with T stat fill neck while both and bleed valve open.

Air has to be allowed to push through while filling. Everything open.