Piston has a few light inprints?
I tapped the valves with a mallet and the heads came off either they were broken prior and jammed into the head or I broke them off.
No shavings at all, took the vavle rod out without a problem slide right out.
I'm hoping its all good, I will put in 2 new valves and re-install the head put timing chain back on and do compression test see what occurs. I'm trying the cheap way if it doesn't work out then time to buy another car and spend the $1000 in new everything or decides on a reman motor. Not sure yet.
Not sure how light a light imprint is, but you need to make sure there are no sharp corners or edges or ridges on that imprint. That can cause a hot spot and preignition. Ideally, you would want to lightly sand or grind that spot down so it blends back into the piston and looks more like a dip them like a valve stamped it's imprint into it. Think rolling hills, not mountain cliffs.
You need to thoroughly clean the heads and check the aluminum around the valve guide in the exhaust port area to make sure a bent valve stem didn't try to close and crack the guide or warp it. Cracks are hard to see but look very very carefully. In an exhaust chamber with high heat something like a crack can just be a problem waiting to happen. You can check the guide for out-of-round by inserting the old broken valve about 1/2" into the guide and gently wiggling side to side and seeing if you get less play by sliding it another 1/2" up. If it all feels pretty much the same, you are probably good to go.
One trick I learned a while ago is to save your money on those wooden suction cup valve lapping tools, and just get a good low-speed drill. Lightly oil the valve stem, then put your lapping compound on the seat, slide the valve up, and GENTLY (as in with just your hands) tighten the drill chuck down over the end of the valve. Now spin the valve slowly and just lightly pull it back so it contacts the seat for a second or two then push it away. Repeat that push-pull action half a dozen times (about 20-seconds), then loosen the chuck, pull the valve out, clean the valve and seat, and see if you got a good shiny even wear ring around the valve and seat. If not, re-oil the valve, apply more lapping compound, and repeat until you wear the seat and valve together. SO much faster and easier then that damn lapping tool. Also, pick up a permanent marker or some steel-dye if you want to make it easier to see when you have a good wear pattern all the way around. Basically clean the head, and then color the valve and seat. That way when you pull it out to look, you can easily see the new wear pattern.
Here's a video of a guy doing the lapping like I am talking:
Valve Lapping with Air Assist - YouTube
I used to take a piece of thick plastic and cut it to fit over the exhaust port, drill a hole in it and screw in a hose nipple, and then hook it up to about 10-psi of air. You then use soapy water and fill the chamber with it and look for bubbles. Easy way to leak-check the valve and seat. You can then tap the back of the valve with a rubber mallet to make sure it will stay seated right when it opens/closes.
