ls problem

slickricky08

LVC Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
california
hi, name is ricky new to the website.
love the site.
just bought a lincoin ls v8.
love the car, but after a month or two lost power when driving from 50 to 70 mph. then my check engine light came on. thouht maybe it was dirty fuel filter, i changed that but didnt help. im thinking its the igntion coils. ls i heard are notorious for going throught coils.
any people have any ideas or any imput would glad to hear.
thanks ricky
 
What year, how many miles? Very common yes. If you're not over 100k miles have the dealer check and replace them because there is a TSB out for them. If you're over go get the codes ran and replace the cop (coil) with the spark plug. It's a diy job. If you observe there is oil beneath the covers you will need to change valve cover gaskets to ensure that the "true" problem was solved.

I'd use OEM cops, but some have had success with the cheaper sets on Ebay. Chances are if you have multiple misfire codes, you will be replacing all eight of them because the rest may be soon to follow. Don't drive the car unless it's an emergency because you will burn out your cats.

Also, this is so common that you could have found the answer using the search feature at the top of the page.
 
2005 ls. just turn to 75k.
was thinkign it was the igntion coils.
just seeing if it was something else. going to but the oem plugs dont wanna go cheap. thanks for the info
ricky
 
thanks for all the advice.
i bought the car threee months as is with no warranty. does lincoin power train warranty still cover my car? kinda of a dumb question but im new tot his.
thanks
 
thanks for all the advice.
i bought the car threee months as is with no warranty. does lincoin power train warranty still cover my car? kinda of a dumb question but im new tot his.
thanks

I guess you didn't read the linked letter. You're covered no matter what. It's extended coverage, extended to anyone who now owns an LS V8 model years 2003, 2004, and 2005 with less than 100K miles. It doesn't matter if you are the first, second, or tenth owner, and it doesn't matter that the factory and any other warranties have run out.

There's only one catch. If your problem is actually not one or more bad COPs, then you will have to pay the $100 diagnostic fee. This pretty much never happens, as there are always some marginal COPs.
 
i was reading on my phone. a crappy phone with slow internet. but thats relief off my back. i live 2 hours away from the ford dealership. thanks for your help.
now i can buy my double din dvd for the ls.
ricky
 
i was reading on my phone. a crappy phone with slow internet. but thats relief off my back. i live 2 hours away from the ford dealership. thanks for your help.
now i can buy my double din dvd for the ls.
ricky

Yeah, it's hard to read PDFs on a phone. Anyway, you may want to print the letter out and take it in with you. Some dealerships will sometimes claim not to know about it.
 
Well I put it on the scanner no code. Check engine light only came on fir abhr or so then turn off . So should i take it to the dealer and hope for the light to come on or wait till the light comes on to get code??
 
Not to bad. Just when i accelerate . Especially around 50 and up. It sputtera then finally opens up. It's fine in town but when in clinking altitude it Biggs down . The check engine came on last week for a few about an hour then turn off. Now it's not spitting out no codes.
 
Well I put it on the scanner no code. Check engine light only came on fir abhr or so then turn off . So should i take it to the dealer and hope for the light to come on or wait till the light comes on to get code??

They need neither the light to be on nor for there to be any stored codes. (You do have some stored codes and misfire precounts, but generic scanners can't read them.)
The dealer will do a coil stress test to find the bad ones. This does not involve the OBDII codes at all.
 
Ok. I went to the local lil shop and he didn't get a code. So I'll just go to the dealership on Friday and hopefully find the problem . Thank you all so much for the help.
 
If the check engine light is on, get a code reader. I just found out Calif parts stores do not do free code reads anymore, least they said so. Also AAMCO shops are hit and miss whether they do free reads, I guess it is fair.

So by yourself a reader. Autozone has a sale going on at least in my area where their code reader that normally sells for $130+ is now selling for $99. It IS an OBD II and CANBUS reader. Be sure whatever reader you buy is CANBUS capable, not all OBDII readers also read CANBUS. There is a nicer model($200++) that is supposed to give graphic readouts but that is possibly more than I really need. My car has only flashed the check engine light on 3 different occasions in the 6 years I have owned the car and all those occasions were bad coils or spark plugs so a simple missfire message and which cylinder it is, is all I need. But, the mid range model I got does have real time monitoring and displays all the parameters that are monitored for the Calif Smog test, so good enough.

Note, I had an older Omni OBDII reader that would talk to the LS but it could not read most of the codes since it was NOT CANBUS capable, so maybe whatever reader your are using now does not read Canbus, about half the ones I saw would not read CANBUS.

I forget what brand the reader I bought is, but it is bright orange/yellowish in color and the size of a pack of cigarettes and has a multiple line LCD display, besides they are all made in China. The manual is rudimentary but the chacter display is fairly complete and the results on the display are usually self explanatory.

Mine read Ignition misfire on cylinders 2 and 4 and another two messages said something like Ignition circuit B and F failing. I assume the first message is just a generic spark misfire while the second message tells you it is probably the coil. I changed the two coils(yes I know you should change them all, but I am getting faster at this now) and the car runs great again. Cost per coil is something like $44. I am also interested in seeing whether the common wisdom of changing all the coils at the same time has merit or is just a better alternative if you are forced to have someone else do it thus having to pay for all the work when only some really needs to be done. I will see how it goes, If I was to prdict the next coil failure I would guess when the weather gets back into the 90s this summer.

Note that there is a reward club card at Autozone which if you get 5 DIFFERENT transactions over $20, you get 1 point. 5 points means $20 on your account. So now I have 4 points, 1 for reader, 1 for coil, +1 for another coil at a different store(they were out) and 1 for a lens cleaner kit.

So anyway, I plan to use my code reader for the usual, but expect only coil failures on the remaining 6 coils I did not replace. I currently have about 128K miles and replaced plugs at about 116K.

At $100 a code reader will pay for itself with one use. If you know what you are doing.

Jim Henderson
 
If the check engine light is on, get a code reader. I just found out Calif parts stores do not do free code reads anymore, least they said so. Also AAMCO shops are hit and miss whether they do free reads, I guess it is fair.

So by yourself a reader. Autozone has a sale going on at least in my area where their code reader that normally sells for $130+ is now selling for $99. It IS an OBD II and CANBUS reader. Be sure whatever reader you buy is CANBUS capable, not all OBDII readers also read CANBUS. There is a nicer model($200++) that is supposed to give graphic readouts but that is possibly more than I really need. My car has only flashed the check engine light on 3 different occasions in the 6 years I have owned the car and all those occasions were bad coils or spark plugs so a simple missfire message and which cylinder it is, is all I need. But, the mid range model I got does have real time monitoring and displays all the parameters that are monitored for the Calif Smog test, so good enough.

Note, I had an older Omni OBDII reader that would talk to the LS but it could not read most of the codes since it was NOT CANBUS capable, so maybe whatever reader your are using now does not read Canbus, about half the ones I saw would not read CANBUS.

I forget what brand the reader I bought is, but it is bright orange/yellowish in color and the size of a pack of cigarettes and has a multiple line LCD display, besides they are all made in China. The manual is rudimentary but the chacter display is fairly complete and the results on the display are usually self explanatory.

Mine read Ignition misfire on cylinders 2 and 4 and another two messages said something like Ignition circuit B and F failing. I assume the first message is just a generic spark misfire while the second message tells you it is probably the coil. I changed the two coils(yes I know you should change them all, but I am getting faster at this now) and the car runs great again. Cost per coil is something like $44. I am also interested in seeing whether the common wisdom of changing all the coils at the same time has merit or is just a better alternative if you are forced to have someone else do it thus having to pay for all the work when only some really needs to be done. I will see how it goes, If I was to prdict the next coil failure I would guess when the weather gets back into the 90s this summer.

Note that there is a reward club card at Autozone which if you get 5 DIFFERENT transactions over $20, you get 1 point. 5 points means $20 on your account. So now I have 4 points, 1 for reader, 1 for coil, +1 for another coil at a different store(they were out) and 1 for a lens cleaner kit.

So anyway, I plan to use my code reader for the usual, but expect only coil failures on the remaining 6 coils I did not replace. I currently have about 128K miles and replaced plugs at about 116K.

At $100 a code reader will pay for itself with one use. If you know what you are doing.

Jim Henderson

Please note that the reader mentioned will read much less than 1/3 of the OBDII codes that the LS can send. If you want to be able to read all the codes, you need something like this.

http://www.autoenginuity.com/order.html
scroll down to
Total Ford ScanTool Bundle
#SP03 - Includes:
• USB ScanTool (ST06)
• Enhanced Ford Expansion


$399.95
 
If you really want to get fancy, get one of those portable SUN testers. My wife's cousin is a professional truck mechanic and he used it on an old SHO I owned that had been in to the dealer for several thousand dollars of "fixes" that didn't fix it. The SUN tester told us exactly what was wrong and showed waveform readouts of the affected sensor. Nice, but it was over $2000 at the time. The dealer either was incompetant or didn't have a tester able to read the simpler OBDI codes on my old SHO, or he was making $$ and losing a customer. Finally cost me $100 for a new sensor that did fix the problem.

For a hundred or two $, you can diagnose a lot of problems. I think the tester I got said something like 15,000 codes including model spoecific codes. I'll look at my box to see if I got the details correct. BTW you can also download software updates for my cheapie reader on line. For the number of times I have needed a tester in the past 10-15 years, I haven't seen any other codes than spark or EGR, except for the time I needed that SUN tester, love those things. SO for most of us a chepie will probably do. I have heard the ones that work with your PC are very good and reasonable since much of the processiing power is already in the PC.

Most problems can be found with reasonably priced tools. I have diagnosed my wifes mercury with a paper clip, works almost as good as a cheap reader, but don't blink.

I'll try to post model number etc on the reader I got. It is pretty usable even though the buttons are very cheesy.

Jim Henderson
 
... I have diagnosed my wifes mercury with a paper clip, works almost as good as a cheap reader, but don't blink...

Yep, that's what I used back in the late 80's and early 90's.
In the early 80's, you needed a hand vacuum pump and a vacuum gauge. You would suck the BAP or MAP (don't remember which it was, but I think it was the MAP) to an impossible vacuum level to trigger diagnostic mode. Then with a vacuum gauge on the vacuum line to the EGR (I think that was the one) you would count the flicks of the gauge needle to read the code(s).

There were some neat Easter eggs in the PCMs of the early 80's Fords. Example: If you toggled the AC on and off quickly during steady cruise, it would lean out the mixture for better mileage. The more you toggled, the leaner it got. This was on the feedback carburetor V8s.
 
Here is the model I bought last week.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16362

There are one or two lower cost scanner/code readers from these guys that are CAN compliant, but the really low end ones are not and have much more limited code listings.

Interesting, that one or two higher end models have a "suggested fix" feature that may be more useful for mechanics who aren't as well versed on what parts is parts as I Are ;^)

I haven't used it much since nothing else is broken and my other vehicles are OBDI or use the paperclip and they aren't broken either.

Anyway. I do like the scanner so far, BUT, a few minor gripes... 1) the buttons are very cheesy feeling, like kiddie play toy buttons. 2) About 30% of the time the unit does not communicate with the car computer, "Please Wait" for too long. Requires a key on key off to reset and then it connects right away. 3) not sure, but I don't think this model tells you the actual code number, but I may have been distracted by the written diagnosis displayed. The Book does NOT have code listings.

I don't know if they are related companies, but the technical help and update information card show Actron and SUN testers as supported. Would be nice if this actually had some SUN technology in it, but probably only a tiny bit since it is soooo cheap and made in China. I love SUN testers, wish I had me one of those beeg engine analyzers that hung from the garage cieling way back.

Jim Henderson
 
FWIW, I have the "OBD Key" Bluetooth tool. Got that because it can connect to many devices with bluetooth (phones, laptops, etc). The tradeoff is the data rate isn't very good, the software is so-so, and it doesn't read the Ford codes. There are some updates available that may help remedy some of that.
Of course, it also didn't cost $400. ;)
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top