Lower your vehicle the right or better way.

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a mod, really should take this thread down, this may get read by none the wiser and could end in a catastrophic wreck and even injury or death.

This is a haphazard modification that is far from safe, and probably not even legal for road use. If this causes a wreck and is found by the insurance or police the driver will be cited for unsafe vehicle.
 
Hold on and slow down guys. I am nuking another bag of popcorn. Where is the damn salt?? :)
 
You did in the official pic thread along time ago. It was in response to someone complaining about the cost associated with customizing our cars.
 
BlackLS06 said:
I dont remember writing that???
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Drinking and posting are we?

I turn my phone off whenever I start drinking. I can't tell you how many times I've said that after checking my text messages, facebook, etc. after a night of cocktails.
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
yeah they won't even seal the exhaust up, let alone hold up almost 1000 pounds of sprung pressure. I am not one to judge others taste, but I do not feel as though this is safe.
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If you take a close look at the shock body, the Bilstein's spring perch sits on a retaining clip that is located in a groove on the shock body. The 2" pipe that is being used as a "sleeve" and to also lift the perch by 1.5 inches, has a thickness of 1/8 of an inch and an ID of 2.012in. The shock body has an OD of 2.002. What does this mean? It means that there is a 10 thousandths gap in between the two pieces. For some who do not know what the size of 10 thousandths is, just picture about 10 of your girlfriend's strands of pubes left behind in the shower, stuck to the Zest bar, lol! Okay, the clamp gives the pipe for the spring perch the small amount of squeeze (.010) that it needs to be completely flush with the shock body. I could have welded the pieces together, but it is totally NOT necessary. Plus, welding on a shock's liquid/gas-filled tube is a BIG NO NO! Unless you have a Super-Efficient way to keep the shock within an acceptable temperature range while welding, go for it; furthermore, if you believe that a C1018 3/8 round bar exhaust clamp doesn't have adequate sustained clamping force for this small task of which it has been designated for, then you my friend obviously know very little about steel, just that it is hard and becomes rusty when bare. LOL, you're more of a "parts changer." As for the remainder of the vehicle's suspension that houses the usual suspect bushings, they have all been replaced with new components: front L,R upper and lower control arms, F,R tie rod ends, front L,R spindles and steering knuckles, sway bar mounts (engine compartment), rear L,R, upper control arms. I did not replace the sway bar links because the bushings are not worn, only the boots. For those who do not know, the boots only keep out dirt. When it's time for the bushings to be replaced, you'll know. They will have a considerable amount of free play. Mine have a long way to go. If you have any more questions, comments or concerns, please do keep posting. I have my Gatorade and a bag of chips in hand. You guys are hilarious, lol! All that it would have taken was a few welds and the majority of you would have been okay with it, hahaha! That's like putting an aggressive exhaust on a really weak car with a good paint job. It would probably be sold to the ones who didn't know, lol.
 
SMH_LS said:
It means that there is a 10 thousandths gap in between the two pieces. For some who do not know what the size of 10 thousandths is, just picture about 10 of your girlfriend's strands of pubes left behind in the shower, stuck to the Zest bar, lol!
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You are still wrong... a human hair is approx .003", so it would only be 3 hairs.

:p:p
 
SMH_LS said:
If you take a close look at the shock body, the Bilstein's spring perch sits on a retaining clip that is located in a groove on the shock body. The 2" pipe that is being used as a "sleeve" and to also lift the perch by 1.5 inches, has a thickness of 1/8 of an inch and an ID of 2.012in. The shock body has an OD of 2.002. What does this mean? It means that there is a 10 thousandths gap in between the two pieces. For some who do not know what the size of 10 thousandths is, just picture about 10 of your girlfriend's strands of pubes left behind in the shower, stuck to the Zest bar, lol! Okay, the clamp gives the pipe for the spring perch the small amount of squeeze (.010) that it needs to be completely flush with the shock body. I could have welded the pieces together, but it is totally NOT necessary. Plus, welding on a shock's liquid/gas-filled tube is a BIG NO NO! Unless you have a Super-Efficient way to keep the shock within an acceptable temperature range while welding, go for it; furthermore, if you believe that a C1018 3/8 round bar exhaust clamp doesn't have adequate sustained clamping force for this small task of which it has been designated for, then you my friend obviously know very little about steel, just that it is hard and becomes rusty when bare. LOL, you're more of a "parts changer." As for the remainder of the vehicle's suspension that houses the usual suspect bushings, they have all been replaced with new components: front L,R upper and lower control arms, F,R tie rod ends, front L,R spindles and steering knuckles, sway bar mounts (engine compartment), rear L,R, upper control arms. I did not replace the sway bar links because the bushings are not worn, only the boots. For those who do not know, the boots only keep out dirt. When it's time for the bushings to be replaced, you'll know. They will have a considerable amount of free play. Mine have a long way to go. If you have any more questions, comments or concerns, please do keep posting. I have my Gatorade and a bag of chips in hand. You guys are hilarious, lol! All that it would have taken was a few welds and the majority of you would have been okay with it, hahaha! That's like putting an aggressive exhaust on a really weak car with a good paint job. It would probably be sold to the ones who didn't know, lol.
Click to expand...


I went to school and work in Metallurgical testing, those clamps are not strong, and thy do rust. Also I am not saying weld it to the shock after its assembled, It should be welded at the factory. Also you can rebuild the shocks so take it apart, weld it and reassemble. You can tell your self what ever you want to feel good about this, but simply it is not safe. Did you even design this and test the materials in a simulator first (pro-e) (inventor) any of them? And the majority of lowering issues are with alignment because the suspension geometry will no longer be true.

So saying that eibachs are a junk way of going about this is just absurd. They have more time in the R&D of their springs than you have drinking your gatorade and eating your chips. So stay on your couch and enjoy your snack and let engineers build things the proper way for you to buy
 
SMH_LS said:
If you take a close look at the shock body, the Bilstein's spring perch sits on a retaining clip that is located in a groove on the shock body. The 2" pipe that is being used as a "sleeve" and to also lift the perch by 1.5 inches, has a thickness of 1/8 of an inch and an ID of 2.012in. The shock body has an OD of 2.002. What does this mean? It means that there is a 10 thousandths gap in between the two pieces. For some who do not know what the size of 10 thousandths is, just picture about 10 of your girlfriend's strands of pubes left behind in the shower, stuck to the Zest bar, lol! Okay, the clamp gives the pipe for the spring perch the small amount of squeeze (.010) that it needs to be completely flush with the shock body. I could have welded the pieces together, but it is totally NOT necessary. Plus, welding on a shock's liquid/gas-filled tube is a BIG NO NO! Unless you have a Super-Efficient way to keep the shock within an acceptable temperature range while welding, go for it; furthermore, if you believe that a C1018 3/8 round bar exhaust clamp doesn't have adequate sustained clamping force for this small task of which it has been designated for, then you my friend obviously know very little about steel, just that it is hard and becomes rusty when bare. LOL, you're more of a "parts changer." As for the remainder of the vehicle's suspension that houses the usual suspect bushings, they have all been replaced with new components: front L,R upper and lower control arms, F,R tie rod ends, front L,R spindles and steering knuckles, sway bar mounts (engine compartment), rear L,R, upper control arms. I did not replace the sway bar links because the bushings are not worn, only the boots. For those who do not know, the boots only keep out dirt. When it's time for the bushings to be replaced, you'll know. They will have a considerable amount of free play. Mine have a long way to go. If you have any more questions, comments or concerns, please do keep posting. I have my Gatorade and a bag of chips in hand. You guys are hilarious, lol! All that it would have taken was a few welds and the majority of you would have been okay with it, hahaha! That's like putting an aggressive exhaust on a really weak car with a good paint job. It would probably be sold to the ones who didn't know, lol.
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I know alot about steel and I know that that clamp was not designed to do what you are trying to do with it. That clamp will rust apart in 6 months. Its not even galvanized, much less hardened stainless steel. Even if it was, its still not designed to support lateral loads. You dont even have the plastic spring rest installed so your spring is not sitting even on the strut. What you are doing (and you can believe what you want and drive it all day) is dangerous and I hope it doesnt have a deadly result for you or anyone who is riding with you or driving around you.

I suggest that no one attemp this mod!! Buy the correct parts and dont try and be cheap about the suspension components.
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
those clamps are not strong, and thy do rust.
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Those clamps are so fragile that tightening them around your exhaust too tight will break them, yet they are being trusted to hold up a multi-ton vehicle, sustaining the force from the moving parts of the suspension.
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
I went to school and work in Metallurgical testing, those clamps are not strong, and thy do rust. Also I am not saying weld it to the shock after its assembled, It should be welded at the factory. Also you can rebuild the shocks so take it apart, weld it and reassemble. You can tell your self what ever you want to feel good about this, but simply it is not safe. Did you even design this and test the materials in a simulator first (pro-e) (inventor) any of them? And the majority of lowering issues are with alignment because the suspension geometry will no longer be true.

So saying that eibachs are a junk way of going about this is just absurd. They have more time in the R&D of their springs than you have drinking your gatorade and eating your chips. So stay on your couch and enjoy your snack and let engineers build things the proper way for you to buy
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Why would I disassemble perfectly good shocks just to weld when it is not needed? And you were partially correct when you said "majority of lowering issues." That is what the corrective kits are utilised for and NTB, lol. And i said Eibachs with the combination of the shocks that i mentioned...
 
jjcool00 said:
Those clamps are so fragile that tightening them around your exhaust too tight will break them, yet they are being trusted to hold up a multi-ton vehicle, sustaining the force from the moving parts of the suspension.
Click to expand...

You guys do not read very well. The clamps are not holding the weight. They are simply slighty smashing the .010 previous clearance to none. Get it? Dang. It's not rocket science, lol!
 
SMH_LS said:
Why would I disassemble perfectly good shocks just to weld when it is not needed? And you were partially correct when you said "majority of lowering issues." That is what the corrective kits are utilised for and NTB, lol. And i said Eibachs with the combination of the shocks that i mentioned...
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How would you feel if while boarding the plane, you over hear the tech saying ah why take the wing apart to weld it, it should be fine with bolt or two....

You take it apart and weld it so it is done properly, or a better idea, don't mess with it at all and buy the stance coilovers
 
SMH_LS said:
You guys do not read very well. The clamps are not holding the weight. They are simply slighty smashing the .010 previous clearance to none. Get it? Dang. It's not rocket science, lol!
Click to expand...

you are correct its not, rocket science involves doing things the safe and correct way....
 
I may only read at a first grade level but even I can understand basic physics and what Force is. When the shock compresses do you really think no force is applied to that clamp? Being that it is sitting directly under the spring? Have you ever squeezed a spring in your hands? There is force being generated. Think about Newton's law of equal and opposite force. When your car hits a bump the shock compresses, force is generated causing the shock to then expand. It is not about how much weight the clamp is holding it is more about how much force the clamp is being subject to.
 
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