Lincoln Sauce

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feeninpeece

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D6A28C3F-A158-4979-895F-E5DB55F5E726.jpeg
I've purchased the above pictured aj27s drivetrain for a shrewdly negotiated price of $500
My current to-do list:
1. Fix all engine related shit and test before sc install
a. Belt tensioner(my belt tensioner flaps around)
b. Timing chain tensioner(classic)
c. Valve cover gaskets(burning oil smell at high rpm, also lately noticed a leak on passenger side)
d. Finish Spark plugs(theres 2 originals left ima lazy mf and theres no misfire so its fine for now)
e. Fuel filter
2. Compression test
3. Clean and paint all sc-related components
4. Disassemble intake assembly
5. Testfit sc assembly
a. Create bracket between lower manifolds to secure sc
b. Create throttle body adapter or drill into inlet from aj27s and match tb mounting holes
c. Take pulley offset measurements (Basically this engine has a double layered crank pulley that goes directly to the blower pulley. Dwiggy emulated this. Im going to design and turn an oversized, offset center pulley that will cancel out the need for this)
d. Measure crank pulley (To figure out how large the blower pulley must be)
e. Take measurements for idler bracket (Gonna make a braket like QuikLS's)
6. Fabricate pulley and idler bracket
7. Take off front bumper and find intercooler location and size.
8. Install Intercooling system (I'm using the stock water-to-air intercooling system in the jag engine, but giving it its own radiator; keeping it separate from the engine's coolant)
9. Make switch panel: ( so you know how every time you try to tune, you need to pull out a bunch of fuses? I've narrowed it down to just the ones below. I'm going to create a switch panel and put it in place of the ashtray/seat heater thing. Basically when i want to tune, I can just flick them all off and then the car will be pretty much disabled and ready for tuning. The duplicates mean multiple fuses.
a. Intercooler pump
b. (future) Vacuum bypass solenoid to disable sc
c. Radio
d. Abs/tcs
e. Cluster
f. Rcm/alternator lamp
g. Radio
h. Fem/cluster/brake interlock
i. Fuel pump
15E48417-5564-4A26-848B-7518C9D25867.jpeg
 
Did the valve cover gasket, sprak plug seals and timing tensioner on the passenger side. Noticed that it already had the metal bodied tensioner w/ orange plastic guides but there was still some a light amount of play, So I replaced it, but the play was still there after. I assume it's supposed to be like this and the car ran fine after so it's probably fine.

The cam cover was cracked on the inner rim of the innermost sparkplug, but i reassembled it and checked for oil a few days later and it was fine.

Also completed the switch panel for the center console. It can turn off power to the cluster, rem, fem ,abs/tcs module, radio, and fuel pump. Essential for ease of tuning once sct verifies my fucking dongle. This panel also houses a afr and boost gauge, both of which are still disconnected.

Next is to start disassembly of the intake and just clean everything up. I'll know mmore about what's needed then. Quik had to reroute the cooling tower, cht sensor, oil fillerr neck, etc. I'm not sure how much of these things i'll have to do yet. What i mainly need is to create a mounting bracket for the blower, attach the Ls's throttle body to its inlet, then figure out all the vacuum routing shit. After positioning the blower, i can then design a custom pulley that will line up with the LS's current belt sytem and make an idler bracket like the one quik made.
 
feeninpeece said:
...Noticed that it already had the metal bodied tensioner w/ orange plastic guides but there was still some a light amount of play, So I replaced it, but the play was still there after...
Click to expand...

The tensioners are hydraulic. (There is a spring to sort of hold it when there is no oil.) They don't hold the correct tension until there is oil pressure, which you wouldn't have without the engine running.
 
joegr said:
The tensioners are hydraulic. (There is a spring to sort of hold it when there is no oil.) They don't hold the correct tension until there is oil pressure, which you wouldn't have without the engine running.
Click to expand...
I see now. Thanks for your reply
 
Did all of the below crossed out shit. More SHIT added to the list. I start school on August 27th. A month or so left. When that time comes I can no longer work on it everyday, but Ill try to here and there. I won't be one of those people that bails on it I assure you. Have a look at my SHIT.

HELP I have a rounded spark plug or some shit. I got them all out except one that wouldnt seat the socket. I would try some of the known methods to remove it, But most of those are pretty destructive, and the plug works just fine for now. Its also the one all the way in the back on the drivers side. Why am i not surprised.


Photos of progress in next post.
1. Fix all engine related shit and test before sc install
a. Belt tensioner(my belt tensioner flaps around)
b. Timing chain tensioner(classic)
c. Valve cover gaskets(burning oil smell at high rpm, also lately noticed a leak on passenger side)
e. Fuel filter
3. Clean and paint all sc-related components
4. Disassemble intake assembly
5. Testfit sc assembly
a. Create bracket between lower manifolds to secure sc
b. Create throttle body adapter or drill into inlet from aj27s and match tb mounting holes
c. Take pulley offset measurements (Basically this engine has a double layered crank pulley that goes directly to the blower pulley. Dwiggy emulated this. Im going to design and turn an oversized, offset center pulley that will cancel out the need for this)
d. Measure crank pulley (To figure out how large the blower pulley must be)
6. Fabricate pulley and idler bracket
9. Make switch panel: ( so you know how every time you try to tune, you need to pull out a bunch of fuses? I've narrowed it down to just the ones below. I'm going to create a switch panel and put it in place of the ashtray/seat heater thing. Basically when i want to tune, I can just flick them all off and then the car will be pretty much disabled and ready for tuning. The duplicates mean multiple fuses.
a. Intercooler pump
b. (future) Vacuum bypass solenoid to disable sc
c. Radio
d. Abs/tcs
e. Cluster
f. Rcm/alternator lamp
g. Radio
h. Fem/cluster/brake interlock
i. Fuel pump
  • mount s/c pulley
  • Crank engine
  • Plug cooling tb outlet or recirc
  • Finish intake
  • Fab idler bracket
  • Fuel
  • Test test test
  • Extend Cooling bridge
  • Compare iat sensors
  • adapt iacv to new manifold
  • Take off front bumper and find intercooler location and size.
  • Install boost gauge line
  • Install Intercooling system
  • Compression test / leakdown test?
  • Build tune file
  • Maintenance:
  • Oil change
  • Driver side vcg
  • Tune
  • New tires / balance
  • Rear brake pads rotors/ flush
  • Clean coilovers, coil socks
  • Fix power steering whine
  • Oil cATch can
  • Trans fluid flush
  • Shift solenoid
  • Trans valve body
  • Engine mounts
  • Fix the major fucking hole in the side
 
Yeah... there are special sockets with teeth of some sort... that are used to remove rounded off nuts.

Figure out the right size... and it should pull the plug pretty easy.
 
I’ll try those once i get it running. I just don’t want to further complicate things by possibly having to pull the head. On a separate note, is there anyone who knows about the manufacturing process of this engine? I have seen every sentence on the internet about it, even finding an entire write up about the bridgend factory plant for jaguar. Apparently, they’d send blocks to Lima Ohio, where ford made their own modifications, like giving us gen 1 owners a vvt delete and amany plastic parts as they could find.

What I want to know is, what is the maximum boost a stock aj30 can take, and what will fail. I don’t believe it has been discovered. I have a suspicion that the motor can take a surprisingly high amount of force. quiks motor ran for 4+ years with 5lbs of boost.

What design decisions were made by ford when making this engine. I would greatly benefit from being able to speak to someone who witnessed this. For example, how much weaker is this crankshaft than the jag one, because that ones pretty damn strong even if not forged. 2nd did we get ford or jag conrods, like i said the non forged jag ones are pretty strong. Only thing i’m aware of that does pose an issue is these high compression pistons.
 
The Gen 1 Jag 4.0 and Ford 3.9 are the same engine. Jag just increased the size by number only to fool (?) Jag owners... not wanting them to make the correlation to Ford.

I was in the Lima engine plant back in 2002... and got to see the 3.9/4.0 being made.

The CNC lathes were sunken below the building floor... in basically a vat of coolant. The line boring for the crankshaft main bearings... was done in a matter of seconds... with coolant spraying everywhere.

If I had to estimate... the 3.9 went from rough casting... to fully machined block... in about 20 minutes.

It was facinating to watch... as the block went through the different machining stages.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Yeah... there are special sockets with teeth of some sort... that are used to remove rounded off nuts.

Figure out the right size... and it should pull the plug pretty easy.
Click to expand...
Next smallest size 12 point socket and a hammer works pretty good sometimes too.
 
as said above the lima engines were completely built on site. they are actually 3.9L with a slightly shorter stroke. the casting of the heads isn’t as pretty and the water passages on the block are smaller, this is why the head gasket doesn’t interchange with any of the jag AJs.

the lima engine had iron sleeves in 1999 whereas jaguar waited until 2000 to change over. i don’t know if they’re press fit like the modular or cast in like the jag. maybe 04_sport knows.

all aj-v8 rods should be fracture split forged
 
Last edited:
‘count iblis’ was one of the engineers that worked on the aj27 and later. you can read his old posts, don’t expect him to get back to you though.


OEM connecting rods - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Jaguar Engines & transmissions - OEM connecting rods - any of you know how much power can they endure the original connecting rods of the 4.2 supercharger engine?
www.jaguarforums.com
 
I’ve seen that guys posts. It’s very interesting that he was around during the creation. He knows a lottttt about these engines. But didn’t ford just use the same block as jaguar, and even so with some modifications. So ford used its own crankshaft, rods, and pistons? If we have the jag crank and rods this engine could easily take 400 to the wheels with no acceleration in wear. possibly more.
 
So the only obstacle is the high compression ratio. Let’s say i slam 10 pounds of boost into the motor and it breaks. What is the most likely part to break as a result of the high compression ratio. It would be a head gasket leak probably right?
 
feeninpeece said:
I’ve seen that guys posts. It’s very interesting that he was around during the creation. He knows a lottttt about these engines. But didn’t ford just use the same block as jaguar, and even so with some modifications. So ford used its own crankshaft, rods, and pistons? If we have the jag crank and rods this engine could easily take 400 to the wheels with no acceleration in wear. possibly more.
Click to expand...
they are probably made with the same materials as all the other jag motors. no reason why they’d be lower quality

feeninpeece said:
So the only obstacle is the high compression ratio. Let’s say i slam 10 pounds of boost into the motor and it breaks. What is the most likely part to break as a result of the high compression ratio. It would be a head gasket leak probably right?
Click to expand...
probably the massive detonation and resulting melted pistons. i’d figure out how to spray some meth before you even start it up for the first time
 
ajv8 said:
they are probably made with the same materials as all the other jag motors. no reason why they’d be lower quality


probably the massive detonation and resulting melted pistons. i’d figure out how to spray some meth before you even start it up for the first time
Click to expand...
Meth is definitely a great idea for this application if I want to turn up the boost. I'll have to do some research. My plan for safe tuning is to lock the bypass valve open to make sure im not getting any boost, dial in the maf curve and injector parameters and everything else, then slowly allow the bypass valve to close to increase boost. I'll stop at 4-5. I believe I can get much more using my current pulley setup. I was going to make the pulley as large as possible to aimm for 4 psi, but it bumps into the wter pump pulley so i had to reduce the diameter.
 
ajv8 said:
as said above the lima engines were completely built on site. they are actually 3.9L with a slightly shorter stroke. the casting of the heads isn’t as pretty and the water passages on the block are smaller, this is why the head gasket doesn’t interchange with any of the jag AJs.

the lima engine had iron sleeves in 1999 whereas jaguar waited until 2000 to change over. i don’t know if they’re press fit like the modular or cast in like the jag. maybe 04_sport knows.

all aj-v8 rods should be fracture split forged
Click to expand...

No... i could not confirm that. I was just a (non-Ford) contract employee at the time... and only got to see the machining of the block for a short time.

I do know/remember that Jag used nikasil coated sleeve that had problems. IIRC... is was a fuel compatibility issue... that cause the nikasil to wear off prematurely.

IIRC... Jag moved away from the nikasil liners in 1999... and I don't think Ford ever used them.
 
I've seen records of the 3.9l being both a shorter stroke, and also a smaller bore version than the 4.0. Most sources point to the shorter stroke side of the story, but a decent amount say the other option as well. Fuck ford for not releasing any definitive data.
 
But then again you can't believe anything in that article because ford did their own shit to the motor.
ajv8 said:
they are probably made with the same materials as all the other jag motors. no reason why they’d be lower quality


probably the massive detonation and resulting melted pistons. i’d figure out how to spray some meth before you even start it up for the first time
Click to expand...
ajv8, I've been reading all your posts for a very long time because not many people have the information that you have. A post you made in April:
anyways about your swap plans.

the 3.9 AJ30 is a cost cut version of the 4.0 S-Type AJ28. the AJ28 ran on the PTEC (PCM150/5R55 controller) like the AJ30 but had denso VVT actuators and programming for it.

Jag bailed out and dumped as much Visteon equipment as they could, all the facelift s-types with the 4.2 have a denso pcm and accessories.

the AJ35 in the gen2 has a bunch of changes from the AJ33 (4.2) but adapted for the PTEC. morse chain, front mount throttle body and new intake bolt pattern. some bean counter finally gave the green light for VVT. converting an AJ33/41 to run on a gen2 is absolutely doable
 
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