Lincoln LS engine

Lincoln LS

  1. DAStone

    DAStone New LVC Member

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    Please bear with me, I just found this forum and have a question. Can anybody tell me what years the V8 engines will interchange? My brother just picked up a nice looking LS that needs an engine. Thanks for any info.
     
  2. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    2000-2002 - 1st gen.
    2003-2006 - 2nd gen.
    You have to stay in the same generation.
    I assume your brother has a 1st gen, since it's pretty rare to blow a 2nd gen V8.
     
  3. DAStone

    DAStone New LVC Member

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    I'm pretty sure he told me it's a 2002. He found a 2004 wreck with a good engine but had heard they wouldn't swap.
     
  4. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    No, they won't.
     
  5. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    There may be something different for [late?] 02. It had a different part number when I needed one. I don't know what was different. I could ***guess*** it just means it was updated with the metal-bodied secondary timing chain tensioners, as both my original and the replacement engines had those instead of the failure-prone plastic bodies
     
  6. Broseph

    Broseph Well-Known LVC Member

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    Yes to the tensioners and also the oil cooler was not included. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t an addon for sport package but an engine change at some point.

    Neither of these changes (tensioners or oil cooler) matter on any 00-02 v8 swap, although I’d strongly suggest getting a late year 02 with metal tensioners. If the cooler is included on an engine pull, and you don’t have the right coolant hose, just unscrew the adapter and Im pretty sure you can thread the other model oil filter where the cooler screwed onto the block.

    It’s been 8 years since I pulled my motor, so I may not be 100% accurate.
     
  7. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    The water to oil cooler is definitely a sport / non-sport difference, not a year change. Check out your local pick-n-pull if you doubt this.
    There was an internal oil flow change in 02 to get more oil to the timing chains. The timing gears changed some too.

    You need a different inner hollow bolt to convert from cooler to non-cooler. There's no need though. If you don't connect the coolant hoses to the cooler, nothing bad happens.
     
  8. Broseph

    Broseph Well-Known LVC Member

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    Good call. It had been awhile since I did the research and changed engines , so I misremembered. I somewhat remember changing out the male threaded bolt for the oil filters now.
     
  9. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    Given the number of cooler failures that mixed coolant and oil, I'd at least cap the cooler lines to prevent anything from pooling inside and corroding the internals
     
  10. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    If you don't connect the coolant hoses to the cooler, nothing bad happens.

    what or how do you cap off the coolant lines to the cooler ? not sure if this is my prob not loosing much coolant if any im seeing some steamy below the heads at times joegr said these are prone to rot out id appreciate a link to replace the unit I guess I could at least picture that
     
  11. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Join the two coolant hoses together with a coupler, or replace the lower radiator hose with one for a non-sport V8.
    If your cooler really is corroded (and the source of the problem), then oil will start spilling out of the disconnected coolant ports.
     
  12. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    I've heard of the insides corroding, but not the outside case. As Joe stated, you'd likely be seeing oil and coolant mix by now. Have you looked at any of the plastic coolant parts in the area?
     
  13. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    gotcha non sport lower or coupler …. im experimenting but feel better about how to go about it …. currently new oil and filter as of yesterday
     
  14. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    shouldn't of experimented I flushed the old oil out with a cup of berrymans b-12 for 6 min new filter new castrol sounded like a clatter calmed down then came back clatter on off reset brain clatter just for fun put in the older cops and made sure had no oil in the tubes aok :) I was so happy i did em all ..started up clatter :( …. oil light is on reset dtc oil light on I got drain bamage cause it only had the lightest of clicks after installing booster cured a vacuum problem got brakes again :) dont see any smoke last few runs but haven't got it up to full temps yet I heard it purr again before I found the oil sludge berrymans is telling me I aint got no fire or oil to the lifters clack clack oil cap had little white film before actually changing but oil looks clear

    other tests all cops I have two sets ohm at 6~7 ohms there are no shorts in the two wire connectors impedance across the two wires is most werer infinitive or reads open a few I tested were floating 500k to 2megaohm not sure what im supposed to see meter is not the best
     
  15. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    its cool I look down past the fan and see the cooler wondering if I got a big berry blow jam exactly 6 qt of oil
     
  16. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Sorry, I didn't understand most of that. I can tell you that you don't have any lifters.
     
  17. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    clacking I just had it running after the booster job but to notice the oil was an emulsion ...this morning I changed the cops and plugs back to the newer set but im still clacking I think ive made a goo ball some sticky threads . it used to just tick slightly not a valve or a lifter but something ….. thinking off using the most of a can of seafoam and pray next start clears up ... my brake booster job isn't done testing I still have to get it hot to see if that was the source of the whiteish smoke at back of drivers side but I have brakes again and less vacuum loss
    don't want to risk getting it hot with all that …..this stems from an affair with a used car salesmen the car ran excellent although returning from the around the block test drive the degass bottle cracked open and was spilling coolant he told me to pick it up the next afternoon when I drove it home the next evening it didn't seem right grinding rocks and like one piston was higher than the rest it drove occasionally good over the next months but has since been nonoperational and ive never been able to get it stable
     
  18. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    there is some rusty stains on the platinum plugs that I just changed back to (newer set) possibly what you guys are saying that the oil cooler has rusted out ??? although im not seeing sediment in the coolant or bottle (stain on ceramic insulators of the plugs) or its the castrol magnetic ??? amber goo varnish looking stuff here and there near compression rings and threads are tacky
     
  19. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Rust on the spark plugs will almost always be due to rain water getting into the plug wells. There is a foam seal on the passenger side of the wiper cowl that rots out. There is a rubber seal on the driver's side that usually lasts, but it can fail too. These are where the wiper shafts go through.

    Yes, there are coil covers and they have seals, but usually the water gets through at the back where the wires go through.
     
  20. smegun

    smegun Active LVC Member

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    you mean if water was on the plugs well I caught that cop killer but considering that I have moisture does a wiper park of a 2003 or 4 fit a first gen its all one piece id be willing to swap it out
     
  21. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    You can swap cowls. You don't want a gen 1 cowl on a gen 2 though because you lose the windshield sprayers. The one-piece design doesn't make any change to the rain leak if that cowl is also shot (and it probably is on a used piece)
     
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