LIncoln LS 2006 Alternator removal question

[DaleGrib]

I am really starting to think someone has a voodoo doll and is having fun poking me...... but woke up this morning to a bad Alternator! Do you have a diagram on how to remove it ? The crappy thing is just had the system checked and it was all fine but I awoke this morning to the dreaded battery light on the dash and took it to autozone and they said the alternator is almost dead. Thanks in advance!

 

[joegr]

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

The most difficult alternator replacement I have done so far. Step 7 sounds simpler than it is.
I did it with the front on ramps.

 

[DaleGrib]

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

The most difficult alternator replacement I have done so far. Step 7 sounds simpler than it is.
I did it with the front on ramps.

Ouch I kinda figured it was gonna be fun considering how fun it was to change the serpentine belt lol

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[DaleGrib]

I just had to order valve cover gaskets I am thinking leaking oil killed the alternator it's almost black so not gonna waste money on the alternator till the oil leak is contained.

 

[joegr]

Did you look in the spark plug wells for oil? Those seals usually go first. Do you get the smell of burning oil or see some smoke under the hood?

I think that oil on/in the alternator is unlikely to be the valve cover gaskets. I think that it's more likely to be the front shaft seal and/or timing cover gasket. While you are checking, look good and close at the damper pulley. Make sure it's not wobbling such that the tensioner oscillates at idle. Also make sure the rubber part isn't coming out. Ford made some bad ones around 2005 up.

 

[DaleGrib]

Did you look in the spark plug wells for oil? Those seals usually go first. Do you get the smell of burning oil or see some smoke under the hood?

I think that oil on/in the alternator is unlikely to be the valve cover gaskets. I think that it's more likely to be the front shaft seal and/or timing cover gasket. While you are checking, look good and close at the damper pulley. Make sure it's not wobbling such that the tensioner oscillates at idle. Also make sure the rubber part isn't coming out. Ford made some bad ones around 2005 up.

I will check them but I know the valve cover gaskets are both needing to be replaced and it almost looks like oil is dripping straight down from the bottom of the front of the cover. And is even out around the plug on the end on both ends. Is the Shaft seal and timing cover gasket easy to change. If it is wobbling I take it I should replace the tensioner while I am at it right? I just changed the belt a few weeks ago and it all seemed fine at that time so hoping for the best in this case. I did order a kit with a lot of the gaskets It came with Valve Cover Gasket Set, Full Gasket Set, Head Gasket Set and Lower Gasket Set. I don't get any burning smell inside the car though I have had that before in a 2002 Lincoln LS but not on this one. But just in case can you please link me to the parts you just mentioned so I can be prepared.

Here is some pics though just in case not sure that they will help or not. My pics are not the greatest by any means my camera kinda stinks. But on the very front of the valve covers its leaking pretty bad and I could see that pouring directly into the alternator.

 

[joegr]

By "plug" do you mean the VCT solenoids? The seals for those are separate and don't come with the valve cover gaskets. You do not remove the valve covers to replace those.

 

[DaleGrib]

By "plug" do you mean the VCT solenoids? The seals for those are separate and don't come with the valve cover gaskets. You do not remove the valve covers to replace those.

Yep and I found that out just a few mins ago I found a set on ebay that did include the VCT solenoid I think so anyway here is a pic

 

[DaleGrib]

The most difficult alternator replacement I have done so far. Step 7 sounds simpler than it is.
I did it with the front on ramps.

Yes you are 100% correct could not figure it out today ran out of daylight. Might have to take out the sway bar cause it's getting in the way of the last bolt. Hard tight spot to work in that's for sure.

 

[joegr]

I had to disconnect end links and remove the passenger side sway bar bracket. Then you can move the sway bar enough to work around it. To actually remove the sway bar, you have to discharge the AC system because a hose has to be disconnected to get it out.

For me, the issue with the upper bolt is that I could see it, touch it, or get a socket on it, but I could only do one of those things at a time. That meant blindly getting the socket on it. That took several tries. I think that if you remove the cooling fan, you can get a lot more room to get at it down there, but you have to remove the upper radiator hose to get the fan out.

I wound up finishing it well after dark.

 

[DaleGrib]

I had to disconnect end links and remove the passenger side sway bar bracket. Then you can move the sway bar enough to work around it. To actually remove the sway bar, you have to discharge the AC system because a hose has to be disconnected to get it out.

For me, the issue with the upper bolt is that I could see it, touch it, or get a socket on it, but I could only do one of those things at a time. That meant blindly getting the socket on it. That took several tries. I think that if you remove the cooling fan, you can get a lot more room to get at it down there, but you have to remove the upper radiator hose to get the fan out.

I wound up finishing it well after dark.

It's done many hours later and next time I think I will take to a shop that was not fun at all on jack stands. Had to take 2 bolts on each side of the car of the sway bar and that let it move just enough to access it, still was very tight though but I am glad that is over with for sure now I can get back to the other fun repairs that was already going on lol. Brake booster is coming any day so that will be next. And also the valve cover kits on Ebay do come with the VCT gaskets thankfully cause the dealership said it would taken a few days to get them in stock for me.

 

[cammerfe]

I am going to assume that the alternator R&R is the same for all years of LS V8s. If I'm wrong, please disregard. With that said:

The first alternator failure I experienced was on the starting line at an ECTA event. The engine just quit, and after getting a tow back to my pit and ascertaining that the new battery was 'empty', we locked up the car and drove back to town. Bought another alternator and drove back to the airport. Although some of the pit surface was concrete (WWII airport tiedown area) we were in the grass. Jacked up the car and dug out the flashlights since the sun was about down.

On my '02 getting the alternator loose was just a regular job exacerbated by the absolutely atrocious location on the underside of the engine. With my good friend/crewchief holding the light, (and swapping off positions) we took more than an hour to find just the right position amongst the swaybar, various hoses, etc., and finally just avoided having the (!@#@!#$) thing fall in my face. Attached the wires and spent another hour plus trying to get the alt. back up into position and bolted down. Friend/C.C. up above with a prybar to push the idler out of the way to get the belt back on helped a lot.

The next morning I was first in line (I was told to come to the front if I arrived in time) and my pass set the record in E/F CC/S (E Fuel Competition Coupe/sedan). I raised the record twice more during that day and then changed classes to E Fuel Super Street by removing the methanol from the fuel cell and going to C16 race gas. I set that record also.

There may be a poorer place for an alternator than its location on the LS, but I'm not aware of one.

KS

 

[DaleGrib]

I am going to assume that the alternator R&R is the same for all years of LS V8s. If I'm wrong, please disregard. With that said:

The first alternator failure I experienced was on the starting line at an ECTA event. The engine just quit, and after getting a tow back to my pit and ascertaining that the new battery was 'empty', we locked up the car and drove back to town. Bought another alternator and drove back to the airport. Although some of the pit surface was concrete (WWII airport tiedown area) we were in the grass. Jacked up the car and dug out the flashlights since the sun was about down.

On my '02 getting the alternator loose was just a regular job exacerbated by the absolutely atrocious location on the underside of the engine. With my good friend/crewchief holding the light, (and swapping off positions) we took more than an hour to find just the right position amongst the swaybar, various hoses, etc., and finally just avoided having the (!@#@!#$) thing fall in my face. Attached the wires and spent another hour plus trying to get the alt. back up into position and bolted down. Friend/C.C. up above with a prybar to push the idler out of the way to get the belt back on helped a lot.

The next morning I was first in line (I was told to come to the front if I arrived in time) and my pass set the record in E/F CC/S (E Fuel Competition Coupe/sedan). I raised the record twice more during that day and then changed classes to E Fuel Super Street by removing the methanol from the fuel cell and going to C16 race gas. I set that record also.

There may be a poorer place for an alternator than its location on the LS, but I'm not aware of one.

KS

Whoever made the decision to put that thing there should be..... but I do love my LS but it's repairs like this that sometime can make you think twice about owning one. Oh yeah and the serpentine belt getting it back on can be fun with that huge amount of space you have to get between the Coolant hoses..... Like I said I love owning a LS not trashing the car by any means it is a great car just some of the locations of things kinda make you shake your head a bit.

 

[milehighmikey]

I had to do my V6 alternator change a couple of years ago. Fearing the worst after seeing many times in the past about the V8 alternator R&R, I was delighted to spend roughly 10 minutes for the complete swap out! The V8 stories sound terrible! An inexpensive harbor freight serpentine belt tool is also an awesome investment for whenever it is needed.

 

[joegr]

...

There may be a poorer place for an alternator than its location on the LS, but I'm not aware of one.

KS

Nissan found a worse place. On some of their cars, you have to discharge the AC system and remove part of it to get the alternator out and back in...

 

[cammerfe]

Nissan found a worse place. On some of their cars, you have to discharge the AC system and remove part of it to get the alternator out and back in...

I had a hot-rodded '34 Five-window Ford Coupe. The generator was in the front on the top of the '53 Merc flathead engine. The car had no front fenders or hood so it was possible to change the generator while sitting on the front passenger-side tire. (You did have to reach between the two top radiator hoses---one from each head---to move the gen from its cradle.

KS

 

[Robb15033]

********
DID ONLY REPLACING THE ALTERNATOR FIX THE PROBLEM AND THE “Check Charging System” MESSAGE??????
What other manufacturer alternator has been installed on the LS successfuly
**********
No other parts, pieces, or resets??
~Thnx

 

[joegr]

********
DID ONLY REPLACING THE ALTERNATOR FIX THE PROBLEM AND THE “Check Charging System” MESSAGE??????
What other manufacturer alternator has been installed on the LS successfuly
**********
No other parts, pieces, or resets??
~Thnx

This is fairly well understood:

1st gen (2000-2002) - Alternator must be Motorcraft or one of a very limited number of other brands that understand the PCM controlled charging scheme that the 1st gen used. Most will not work correctly.

2nd gen (2003-2006) - Alternator uses normal control scheme and just about any brand will work.

There is no alternator related "reset."
Other wiring or connectors are only needed if said wiring or connector is damaged.

All I needed was an aftermarket alternator for my 06.

 

[Robb15033]

This is fairly well understood:

1st gen (2000-2002) - Alternator must be Motorcraft or one of a very limited number of other brands that understand the PCM controlled charging scheme that the 1st gen used. Most will not work correctly.

2nd gen (2003-2006) - Alternator uses normal control scheme and just about any brand will work.

There is no alternator related "reset."
Other wiring or connectors are only needed if said wiring or connector is damaged.

All I needed was an aftermarket alternator for my 06.

Thank You! You are correct, only Motorcraft Alternator & Battery will operate long term with the PCM controlled system.
I also replaced a Ford pigtail connector to make a clean connection from alternator to battery.
I pick up the car in a couple hours & i will update

 

[Robb15033]

UPDATE:
Repairs were successful!
~Motorcraft Alternator
~Motorcraft Battery
~Ford pigtail connector for alternator installed