Lights out

W

Wunbadmofo

LVC Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2010
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Location
Baltimore
2001 Lincoln Ls V8 Sport

When i installed my subs and amp i spliced into the orange and black wire going to the rear lights on the passenger side on the light side of the harness connector to attach the remote wire. ( Smart people roll eyes and groan here ).

Now all of my lights in the rear passenger side are out, with the exception of my turn signal. The tag lights are also out. The brake light does not light. Everything on the driver side is working. And the front lights all work.

I tried replacing one of the bulbs with no luck. I also visually inspected every fuse in the rear fusebox and they all looked good. So I guess my next step is to put a meter on the harness connector to see if there is any power. And if there is none i have no idea what to do after that. But its dark now and I'll do that tomorrow. But does anyone know off the top of their head what the hell happened?
 
Sorry forgot to say that everything is unhooked and removed and black taped any exposed wire.
 
Then I dont know where to tell ya to look. I'm new to the LS thing. If it was a Jeep or a Superduty I could point u in the right direction, but without being there, I dont really know where else to begin besides tracing the wires back to c where they come from.

There is alot of mofo's on here that know these cars like the skin on there Peters that should be of more assistance
 
I believe the meaning is a rear electronics module.. Controls the lights and whatnot.. Big money in replacing it.. Hope that is not your problem
 
Well. If the fuse and bulb are not bad, i guess the next step would be the rem right? I can get one easily for free at a salvage yard. Only I read that they have to be programmed to your car. Anyone know if this is true?

Im at a loss, I dont know whats wrong
 
Well i think i Need a new rem. I have read that u need to have them programmed for your car.

I can get a rem at a salvage yard, does it really have to be programmed? Any ideas on how to do this on the cheap?
 
Ok. So I have swapped out the light switch and rem with known good parts. Same issue. I have continuity between the connector on the harness and the light sockets. I have continuity on all grounds between the rem and the ground terminals in the trunk except one. I will try to put a good ground on that and if that doesn't work im out of ideas. The bulbs are good and the signal works so it not a fuse as they are on the same one.

I have had these codes pulled

1676 Battery voltage low

1503 right turn signal circuit failure ( right signal works fine )

Someone please give me some idea of what to check now
 
dude, with all due respect, with the way that you tried to hook up your subs, i have great doubts about you working on your own car, i think that it is time to bite that bullet and take the car to a trained service technician.

again, not trying to be a dick here, just trying to avoid making the problem worse.
 
1LoudLS said:
dude, with all due respect, with the way that you tried to hook up your subs, i have great doubts about you working on your own car, i think that it is time to bite that bullet and take the car to a trained service technician.

again, not trying to be a dick here, just trying to avoid making the problem worse.
Click to expand...

Well, there is no reason why hooking them up that way should ever hurt anything. There is no reason to have a 120 pin out computer to control some lights. Unfortunately i bought one of these pieces of :q:q:q:q ls's without doing enough research. In any other car, that remote wire would have worked perfectly without any probs. Just so u know I have replaced the clock spring, vcg's, coils, airbag switch connector and am perfectly capable of diagnosing a bad circuit, which i believe is being caused by a bad ground.



Sad to say that i did take it to a shop and the technician couldnt even grasp the concept of continuous power with ground switches.

So not to be a dick, but if you dont have a solution to the prob, keep your dumbass opinion to yourself

ps. Ill stop thinking youre a dumbass if you can tell me why you think a remote power checking wire would damage this circuit. Keep in mind i still have continuous power and thats the only wire i patched into.
 
Last edited:
Wunbadmofo said:
Keep in mind i still have continuous power and thats the only wire i patched into.
Click to expand...
so why would you want your amp to have constant power all the time...

Wunbadmofo said:
Ill stop thinking youre a dumbass if you can tell me why you think a remote power checking wire would damage this circuit. Keep in mind i still have continuous power and thats the only wire i patched into.
Click to expand...
for starters, the remote wire iust not just "checking for power", it is consuming it. most good amps do use very little power for this, kinda like a relay, however i have seen many amps use a lot more power then they should be which could definitely overload the system. newer cars have very sensitive computer components, these components where designed with very specific specifications in mind, adding more power requirements with out know (a) what the new equipment's power requirements are and (b) what the circuit's limits are, is just a bad idea

Wunbadmofo said:
Sad to say that i did take it to a shop and the technician couldnt even grasp the concept of continuous power with ground switches.
Click to expand...
well this is your first clue that this "technician" has never done any real work on modern cars as this is becomming very common with modern cars

Wunbadmofo said:
So not to be a dick, but if you dont have a solution to the prob, keep your dumbass opinion to yourself
Click to expand...
well thats not going to happen, its not my fault that your poor choice for install technique resulted in damage to the car, now is it?

Wunbadmofo said:
Well, there is no reason why hooking them up that way should ever hurt anything.
Click to expand...
well your car disagrees with you.

Wunbadmofo said:
In any other car, that remote wire would have worked perfectly without any probs.
Click to expand...
actually this is the way that most new cars are going, the old days of having way too thick wires, with way more amperage ten what is necessary are long gone, time to adapt or continue to pay the price.

Wunbadmofo said:
am perfectly capable of diagnosing a bad circuit, which i believe is being caused by a bad ground.
Click to expand...
then why are you asking people here online if (a) you think you know what the problem is and (b) are perfectly capable of diagnosing circuits.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 209 (members: 0, guests: 209)
Back
Top