Leaking Motor Mount

nghtshd88

nghtshd88

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Heard a dull metal popping noise twice today behind the front passenger wheel area on incline and delcine when turning.

First thought is to check the suspension when I return.. Continue driving to my destination and something sounds terribly loose out of no where in the parking garge combined with a now loose feel in the steering wheel.. not good of course.

Go to look and steering rack boot is wet on the bottom and motor mount is wet so I assume the hydraulic mount just went.

Double check and also find out the outer tie rod joint just went and is very loose.. MOOG. recently replaced about 2-3yrs ago.

Any choice or brands to avoid when replacing the mount? Rockauto has a couple random. prefer oem of course but Im assuming obsolete.. plan on replacing both at once..
 
nghtshd88 said:
Heard a dull metal popping noise twice today behind the front passenger wheel area on incline and delcine when turning.

First thought is to check the suspension when I return.. Continue driving to my destination and something sounds terribly loose out of no where in the parking garge combined with a now loose feel in the steering wheel.. not good of course.

Go to look and steering rack boot is wet on the bottom and motor mount is wet so I assume the hydraulic mount just went.

Double check and also find out the outer tie rod joint just went and is very loose.. MOOG. recently replaced about 2-3yrs ago.

Any choice or brands to avoid when replacing the mount? Rockauto has a couple random. prefer oem of course but Im assuming obsolete.. plan on replacing both at once..
Click to expand...
It's truly amazing how car parts differ from one car to another in the quality of the product ...Moog was at one time professional grade products...but I've heard that many a Moog part now is not what it once was ...with that being said I had to replace my wifes rear stabilizer link on her 2007 Acura RDX and being in a pinch I had to go with Moog ...my jaw dropped when I reached into the box and pulled it out ...the Moog part was amazing with grease zerks in both top and bottom bushings ...I couldn't believe the difference from the existing part and the moog part ...Moog must make better parts for different vehicles...
 
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AmsterDutch said:
It's truly amazing how car parts differ from one car to another in the quality of the product ...Moog was at one time professional grade products...but I've heard that many a Moog part now is not what it once was ...with that being said I had to replace my wifes rear stabilizer link on her 2007 Acura RDX and being in a pinch I had to go with Moog ...my jaw dropped when I reached into the box and pulled it out ...the Moog part was amazing with grease zerks in both top and bottom bushings ...I couldn't believe the difference from the existing part and the moog part ...Moog must make better parts for different vehicles...
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if the OE part is sealed the replacement better be. zerks don’t belong on anything lower than a 3500 truck these days
 
$85 vs $30 on rockauto. Guess Ive more than learned my lesson.. unfortunately used MOOG upper control arms also which like the end links have zerk fittings.. i rather have a sealed unit. Just surprised how it failed out of no where. Obviously could have been very bad. Glad my lower ball joints are OEM as well as the rear with lemforder rear tie rods.

When I replaced the original ends front and rear because the boots were basically gone at that point, the joints themselves were still solid which suprised me.
 
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AmsterDutch said:
It's truly amazing how car parts differ from one car to another in the quality of the product ...Moog was at one time professional grade products...but I've heard that many a Moog part now is not what it once was ...with that being said I had to replace my wifes rear stabilizer link on her 2007 Acura RDX and being in a pinch I had to go with Moog ...my jaw dropped when I reached into the box and pulled it out ...the Moog part was amazing with grease zerks in both top and bottom bushings ...I couldn't believe the difference from the existing part and the moog part ...Moog must make better parts for different vehicles...
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I got Moog specifically cause they had grease zerks and OEM didn't, people that don't like Moog prolly never grease them, that's an essential process for longevity, lol
 
SultanGris said:
I got Moog specifically cause they had grease zerks and OEM didn't, people that don't like Moog prolly never grease them, that's an essential process for longevity, lol
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Way back when, all the joints in all cars had the grease fittings. Every oil change, you greased them. It wasn't a whole lot more effort to do, but it wasn't nothing either. You were doing really good if you didn't have to replace them before 100K miles.
Now, all cars have sealed joints with no grease fittings. So, it's less work, but... But, it's not more frequent replacement either. Actually, it is less. Now they usually last 150K+ miles, sometime way more than that. I have no desire at all to go back to having to grease the joints and having to replace them anyway.
 
A lot of time, the greasing capabilities lead to early failure because the rubber boot often ruptures with no warning, despite watching for the beginning of a swelling of the boot. Then the piece will die sooner. I had greaseable sway bar end links from Moog on my lady's outback and they died within 18 months! I went back to OEM with their lifetime grease.
 
joegr said:
Way back when, all the joints in all cars had the grease fittings. Every oil change, you greased them. It wasn't a whole lot more effort to do, but it wasn't nothing either. You were doing really good if you didn't have to replace them before 100K miles.
Now, all cars have sealed joints with no grease fittings. So, it's less work, but... But, it's not more frequent replacement either. Actually, it is less. Now they usually last 150K+ miles, sometime way more than that. I have no desire at all to go back to having to grease the joints and having to replace them anyway.
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If you grease them properly they will last way longer, most people struggle with the properly part though. If you over grease and pop the boots or under grease them you won't gain anything, but my dad has a 1970 half ton Ford ranger with 460k miles on it and i think it's all original still, maybe been changed one time. But he changes oil every 2k and greases properly. He's crazy, he even drills holes in sealed bearings and greases with a needle then covers hole with that blue rtv sealant on some 1960s farm equipment and they last virtually forever if you do it right! Of course they also made shit better to begin with back then, now it's all cheap crap designed to fail so they can sell you more parts and labor.
 
milehighmikey said:
A lot of time, the greasing capabilities lead to early failure because the rubber boot often ruptures with no warning, despite watching for the beginning of a swelling of the boot. Then the piece will die sooner. I had greaseable sway bar end links from Moog on my lady's outback and they died within 18 months! I went back to OEM with their lifetime grease.
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You're over greasing if you're popping the boot, more is not better in this case.
 
I couldn't stay out of this discussion! My '56 Ford has over 400,000 miles and about 13 zerk fittings on it. Except for the u joints they get greased every 2000 miles, except for once. In 1990 I drove from Detroit to Fairbanks (about 3000 miles) without stopping to grease and killed a couple of ball joints. Otherwise, all suspension and steering parts are original on this car.
 
Do the motor mount brackets "have to" be removed also to get the mounts out? Or are the studs on the mounts short enough that you can jack the motor up and get them out without removing the brackets?

I know the manual says you have to remove the brackets but no one in the threads Ive read makes any mention to remove the brackets when replacing..

Just trying to see it possible obviously less time consuming.
 
nghtshd88 said:
Do the motor mount brackets "have to" be removed also to get the mounts out? Or are the studs on the mounts short enough that you can jack the motor up and get them out without removing the brackets?

I know the manual says you have to remove the brackets but no one in the threads Ive read makes any mention to remove the brackets when replacing..

Just trying to see it possible obviously less time consuming.
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no you don’t need to take the brackets off. pro tip when replacing the alternator. take the right mount off then unbolt the bracket and you can slide it out the back. no drama at all

left side is annoying but not that hard. take the tie rods off and unbolt the rack, remove rotor and caliper so you can get in at a decent angle.

AC lines are routed around the top nut so you need a flex head ratchet and medium length 16mm socket, 12 point is nice so you don’t have to waste time trying to slip it in.
 
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ajv8 said:
no you don’t need to take the brackets off. pro tip when replacing the alternator. take the right mount off then unbolt the bracket and you can slide it out the back. no drama at all

left side is annoying but not that hard. take the tie rods off and unbolt the rack, remove rotor and caliper so you can get in at a decent angle.

AC lines are routed around the top nut so you need a flex head ratchet and medium length 16mm socket, 12 point is nice so you don’t have to waste time trying to slip it in.
Click to expand...
Great tip on the alternator being I was suppose to have it repaired the day after I found out the tie rod busted and the mount was leaking. The following day the original Visteon starter got stuck engaged (just removed it hours ago) so never made it to the shop to have the alternator repaired.. ALL in one area so just doing it all at once myself..

The manual mentions nothing about removing the tie rods and rack for the left side for GEN2V8


Is that really needed?
 
nghtshd88 said:
Great tip on the alternator being I was suppose to have it repaired the day after I found out the tie rod busted and the mount was leaking. The following day the original Visteon starter got stuck engaged (just removed it hours ago) so never made it to the shop to have the alternator repaired.. ALL in one area so just doing it all at once myself..

The manual mentions nothing about removing the tie rods and rack for the left side for GEN2V8


Is that really needed?
Click to expand...
you can always attempt it. when i did my stype r it definitely made the job easier

it takes like 5 minutes to lower the rack so no big deal either way
 
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