Leaking Half Shaft Seals? (Pic)

[M4rk]

Hey folks,

A few days back, while checking my tire pressure, I noticed the typical grease smell when adjusting the driver rear wheel pressure. I thought nothing of it, and moved on. Fast forward to last night, I noticed a clicking/popping noise coming from the back whenever driving at very slow speeds (just at idle speed going forward), regardless of surface smoothness. So I popped the passenger rear wheel off (not enough room to get the driver side off in my tight garage) and began to inspect the area..

Long behold, the half shafts caught my eye..


Passenger side (I swiped my finger on the passenger side hence the little mark on the black piece):

Driver side (Note the circled area on exhaust pipe):

Now I'm no expert, but it seems like my driver side half shaft seal is done for. I'll be swapping over my summer wheels tomorrow so I'll try to grab some pictures.


According to FordParts.com, the black part (#4C130) is the differential drain plug :

Any input/suggestions are highly appreciated so I know what to look for tomorrow when I have better access. Cheers!

 

[Kumba]

I would say you are right about the seal. Buy some new seals, pull the CV Axle out, see if there is a groove in the CV axle seal surface that destroyed the seal. If there is, you either need to replace the CV axle or put a sleeve over it. Then replace the seal and reassemble. You'll also want to top off the pumpkin with fluid once you have checked it all out.

Also, if you heard a clicking popping noise while idling forward on a smooth surface, AND your sway bar and toe links are solid, then you likely have bad CV axles too. It IS possible that the pumpkin could have damage, but that would be more of a grinding sound/feel.

If you want a hail-mary plan for the weekend so that you don't have any last-minute gotchas, then I would buy a set of CV Axles, seals, and seal repair sleeves. That way if they are bad you can replace them. If they aren't bad, you can return the shafts.

 

[Bullschmidt]

Did your shaft start leaking before or after you let a woman ride in the backseat :shifty:

 

[M4rk]

I would say you are right about the seal. Buy some new seals, pull the CV Axle out, see if there is a groove in the CV axle seal surface that destroyed the seal. If there is, you either need to replace the CV axle or put a sleeve over it. Then replace the seal and reassemble. You'll also want to top off the pumpkin with fluid once you have checked it all out.

Also, if you heard a clicking popping noise while idling forward on a smooth surface, AND your sway bar and toe links are solid, then you likely have bad CV axles too. It IS possible that the pumpkin could have damage, but that would be more of a grinding sound/feel.

If you want a hail-mary plan for the weekend so that you don't have any last-minute gotchas, then I would buy a set of CV Axles, seals, and seal repair sleeves. That way if they are bad you can replace them. If they aren't bad, you can return the shafts.

Thanks for the input Kumba.

Looking at the shop manual, it already looks like more than I can handle. Will probably get quotes from the dealer and such. The axles let alone are ~$350/ea, so I hope it doesn't come to that..

Anyone with AllData access, could you please see what the estimated repair duration is? I hope it's not too much to ask, but I would love to see the instructions as well please.

If I had followed the silly oil change schedule (every 3 mo), they would've likely spotted the leak at the dealership. My extended warranty expired at the end of February, which would've covered it.. I love how my LS has all the uncommon issue. Anyone want to trade for bad coils and DCCVs?

Anyway, might be relevant, but the clicking only occurs once a few KM have been driven and it's warm.

I'll inspect the passenger rear susp components tomorrow. I am hoping to find a bad toe link.

 

[hite337]

if you heard a clicking popping noise while idling forward on a smooth surface, AND your sway bar and toe links are solid, then you likely have bad CV axles too.

And I dont think the toe links are very solid, the one in the pic looks like it has a torn boot.

 

[M4rk]

Here are some better photos of the alleged leak. The driver side is definitely more greasy than the passenger side. I wonder how long this has been going on for..

No comments on the rust please :shifty:

I will ask the dealership to look at it at my next oil change.

 

[joegr]

Get them to check (and if needed top off) the gear oil level in the differential. I'd say if it is still nearly full, you can put off doing anything about this for a while, unless the clicking is coming from there.

There's a similar about of grease and grim around all three seals on the differential on my Ranger. I just check the oil level in it every time I change oil in the engine. So far, there's no noticeable drop in level.

 

[M4rk]

Thanks Joe. Is that something I could check myself? I quickly looked over the Driveline section of the shop manual, but I wasn't able to find any immediate references to it.

 

[owlman]

I had the same seal fail on mine (at only 40k miles).

As I recall it cost around $400 to have fixed That would have bought a lot of gear oil...

 

[joegr]

Thanks Joe. Is that something I could check myself? I quickly looked over the Driveline section of the shop manual, but I wasn't able to find any immediate references to it.

It should be a simple as take the fill plug out and feel inside for oil. If it's at the fill plug hole, it's okay.

 

[M4rk]

It should be a simple as take the fill plug out and feel inside for oil. If it's at the fill plug hole, it's okay.

I'll check it out. I suppose it's the rear facing plug on the passenger half of the case (visible in the very first photo)?

The shop manual also mentioned that a plugged axle vent could cause some of the seals to leak. Does the LS even have one of those? I briefly looked under there, but with limited light I couldn't see much.

I had the same seal fail on mine (at only 40k miles).

As I recall it cost around $400 to have fixed That would have bought a lot of gear oil...

Ouch! Wasn't covered by warranty at only 40k?

 

[joegr]

I'll check it out. I suppose it's the rear facing plug on the passenger half of the case (visible in the very first photo)?

The shop manual also mentioned that a plugged axle vent could cause some of the seals to leak. Does the LS even have one of those? I briefly looked under there, but with limited light I couldn't see much....

Yes, the plug on the cover.
I would think that it would have a vent, but I can't find one in the drawings for the differential, so maybe not.

 

[PMJJ]

ALLDATA says 1.2 per side, or 2.0 for both axles, then .3 each side for the seal. They should only quote you no more than like 3 hrs total. They might buffer it a little. What do your threads look like on the outside of the axle shafts for axle nut removal?

 

[Kumba]

This is another good reason to always replace the seal and check the rear when doing CV axles. That way you never find out later it needed to be done.

 

[owlman]

Ouch! Wasn't covered by warranty at only 40k?

I wish! But it was past the 4 year warranty end...

 

[M4rk]

Yes, the plug on the cover.
I would think that it would have a vent, but I can't find one in the drawings for the differential, so maybe not.

Well I tried and failed. I had very little room under the car, so I couldn't get enough leverage on the plug. I might ask the dealer, or try again another time with my impact gun.

ALLDATA says 1.2 per side, or 2.0 for both axles, then .3 each side for the seal. They should only quote you no more than like 3 hrs total. They might buffer it a little. What do your threads look like on the outside of the axle shafts for axle nut removal?

Thank you!

The threads look fine. Last year I couldn't get the axle nut off when I needed to replace my pass side bearing - I don't think I want to go back in there again as everything is caked on with rust.

 

[M4rk]

Update: Both half shafts appear grey and dry now. I suppose there is no real leak out there.

I also discovered a cracked subframe bushing, which I believe is the cause of the popping noise I've been hearing lately during low speed turns and on uneven surfaces. I think it fits the pattern.

I guess I won't be getting new mufflers anytime soon! Time to sell this LS and upgrade to a newer one?

 

[LS4me]

Update: Both half shafts appear grey and dry now. I suppose there is no real leak out there.

I also discovered a cracked subframe bushing, which I believe is the cause of the popping noise I've been hearing lately during low speed turns and on uneven surfaces. I think it fits the pattern.

I guess I won't be getting new mufflers anytime soon! Time to sell this LS and upgrade to a newer one?

I used those as jack points on all my LSes. The edges of some are cracked and I have yet to hear anything from them in over 10 years.

 

[TooManyToys]

I wouldn't worry too much about the bushing.

I would worry a little more about what appears to be a crack propagating out of the weldment above it, just above my yellow line. Might want to take a wire brush to that and see if it is a crack.

 

[M4rk]

I used those as jack points on all my LSes. The edges of some are cracked and I have yet to hear anything from them in over 10 years.

Must be the climate? I rarely push the car hard, nor have I ever jacked it up by the bushing. So much for babying it during my ownership..

I wouldn't worry too much about the bushing.

I would worry a little more about what appears to be a crack propagating out of the weldment above it, just above my yellow line. Might want to take a wire brush to that and see if it is a crack.

Thanks for the heads up, Jack! I cleaned up the area you pointed out, and it appears to be a deep scratch of some sort (at this point anyway).


So this bushing, being cracked and that it creates popping noise during turning and on uneven surfaces - does it affect the safety of the vehicle? I was hoping to keep it for at least 2 more years.

 

[LS4me]

So this bushing, being cracked and that it creates popping noise during turning and on uneven surfaces - does it affect the safety of the vehicle? I was hoping to keep it for at least 2 more years.

The bushing is a rubber mount, not that metal piece. Looks like #8 in the picture. Not listed???????

 

[M4rk]

Not sold separately, have to buy the entire subframe. I believe it's metal but covered with rubber - hitting it with a hammer produces a metal resonance. Same with the inner grey piece that sits inside of #8.

 

[LS4me]

Not sold separately, have to buy the entire subframe. I believe it's metal but covered with rubber - hitting it with a hammer produces a metal resonance. Same with the inner grey piece that sits inside of #8.

Roger......

 

[jmtiseo]

Don't know if your problem still persists but I forgot to mention that I also thought one of my cv shafts were leaking so I bought the seal. Checked the fluid before tearing into it and realized it was still full so I opted out of going through the labor of install it. If you still need the seal I have it still in package from the dealer. Assuming it's the right part, if you need it down the road let me know.

 

[M4rk]

Update: It's very cold today (below freezing) and the car is dead silent. No popping noises present at all.

Don't know if your problem still persists but I forgot to mention that I also thought one of my cv shafts were leaking so I bought the seal. Checked the fluid before tearing into it and realized it was still full so I opted out of going through the labor of install it. If you still need the seal I have it still in package from the dealer. Assuming it's the right part, if you need it down the road let me know.

Thanks! I appreciate it. I don't think there's a leak judging by the way things look.