Knock at idle

What do you mean by harsh shifting? Delayed engagement? Abrupt engagement? Delayed would point to the solenoid pack.





When running regular the computer will retard timing to prevent pre-detonation, or "knock/pinging" resulting in poor performance and lower MPG. The money saved per tank is more than lost on the lower MPG.

Ah yes, one of the few times you'll see the word "retard" used one an internet forum not as an insult.:p
 
What do you mean by harsh shifting? Delayed engagement? Abrupt engagement? Delayed would point to the solenoid pack.





When running regular the computer will retard timing to prevent pre-detonation, or "knock/pinging" resulting in poor performance and lower MPG. The money saved per tank is more than lost on the lower MPG.

It engages quickly, abrupt engagement is more like it. But I only experience it on cold starts. Not so much on warm starts.
 
When the car is first turned on, it starts off at 1.5k and then drops a little below 1k when put into gear.
 
Let the car do it's warm up idle thing and only shift it into gear once the rpm's drop to 1000rpm. The puter has the engine rev higher at start up to get the oil flowing and the warm up cycle started. Putting it gear is just hard on the driveline and actually less efficient than waiting for 20-30 seconds.

As to the other problems, divide and conquer. Oddball vibration and out of balance is usually a tire getting a flat spot or a slipping band. My Uniroyals have done it since day one but it's not consistent enough to say which tire or if a wheel balance will take care of it.
 
...The puter has the engine rev higher at start up to get the oil flowing and the warm up cycle started. ...

Nothing to do with oil flow (actually high start RPM is the last thing you want there), and everything to do with meeting emissions requirements.

GM had to reprogram some of their PCMs (a long time back) to let the starter turn the engine for a few revs before starting. They were starting and turning too fast before the oil was flowing.
 
your biggest problem is the fuel. cant really diagnose anything til you fix it.
if you have driven it for more than 100 miles with incorrect fuel i would disconnect battery and follow proper break-in for a battery reconnect and transmission break-in. do that with a full tank of whatever octane rating of fuel you plan to use in the future. running a bottle of lucas thru it wont hurt either. wrong octane level throws a ton of stuff out of spec. just dont do it.
 

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