Just Replaced DCCV

F

FreakinLinkin

LVC Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
Hey everyone,

Up until 2 weeks ago I had a warranty on my car (2006 LS 75,xxx miles) and since it ran out I have had 4 coils go bad, I fixed them with Duralast coils from Autozone and 4 new plugs (Autolite XP Iridium/Spark Plugs). Car runs fine again, but I am waiting for my set of 8 coils to come in the mail to replace all at once and take the ones from Autozone back for my $160 back (10 off 50 coupon used at 4 different stores from Sugarland to Katy).

2 days later, Monday, A/C blows hot air on one side slightly cooler on other the DATC throws the 2798 code (short to ground) I did my research and came across some post saying that I need to replace DCCV. picked one up at Autozone (Everco Heater Control Valve Part Number: 74010), drained coolant took old out put new in connected the tubes back new coolant (was a pain bleeding the system). Everything is great.

UNTIL I go to lunch Wednesday hot air comes back again throws code 2799. in my latest research I came across something saying the coils can mess up the DCCV some how but the thread ended with that. I really dont want to replace the DCCV again is the another problem? and whats the easiest way to deal with those claps? Please help me out.
 
Joegr pointed out a great tool for the clamps on my Tips on dccv replacement posting 2 days ago. Im about to replace mine.....was it easy? Any tips?
 
FreakinLinkin said:
... UNTIL I go to lunch Wednesday hot air comes back again throws code 2799. ...
Click to expand...

That's an open circuit code. It could be that the passenger solenoid coil has opened up, but since this is a new DCCV, it probably isn't. (Still, it could be.) It could also be wiring, a connector, or the DATC. I think that the most likely suspect would be the connector to the DCCV. Did you get it correctly and completely plugged in? If you did, disconnect it and look to see if it looks corroded. If it does, clean or replace it. Just disconnecting and reconnecting it may well get things working again for a little while.

If that doesn't help, you should measure the resistance of each solenoid coil. If the passenger side is above 23 ohms, then the new DCCV is indeed bad.
 
1CleanLs said:
Joegr pointed out a great tool for the clamps on my Tips on dccv replacement posting 2 days ago. Im about to replace mine.....was it easy? Any tips?
Click to expand...

The hardest part for me was the clamps and then the connector which has a special way to un hook you move the red cover up then push it in squeeze it and pull it out. other then that the bleeding process you have to follow to the T don't take a short cut and do it as fast as you can before the coolant heats up and don't forget the bleeder valve and don't lose it either lol. its not really all that difficult but mostly about getting in the best position. I did it all from the top i seen some walk-throughs that say raise the car but i had no need to

Joegr it was your post in the automotive forums that really helped me out and I want to thank you! Ill check the connections when I get home tonight. I hope its just the plug being out a little after all that hard work i put in in direct Houston heat and sunlight.....
 
joegr said:
That's an open circuit code. It could be that the passenger solenoid coil has opened up, but since this is a new DCCV, it probably isn't. (Still, it could be.) It could also be wiring, a connector, or the DATC. I think that the most likely suspect would be the connector to the DCCV. Did you get it correctly and completely plugged in? If you did, disconnect it and look to see if it looks corroded. If it does, clean or replace it. Just disconnecting and reconnecting it may well get things working again for a little while.

If that doesn't help, you should measure the resistance of each solenoid coil. If the passenger side is above 23 ohms, then the new DCCV is indeed bad.
Click to expand...

Alright I feel dumb pushed on it a bit and i heard it lock into place and working again.
 
Well after a couple days it went out again. It gets 12v power but i am unsure how to check resistance. After i changed the dccv again it still didnt work but when i got in later to get a multimeter it came back on and worked for 30 mins (ice cold fogged the windows) and i got out and went inside for the night. Went to get breakfast and on the way home, 20 mins into the drive, it went out and blew hot again. I came home and tested voltage and made sure the fuse was fine and then it worked again... Im stumped here. Wiring? Datc? Its not the dccv...
 
FreakinLinkin said:
Well after a couple days it went out again. It gets 12v power but i am unsure how to check resistance. After i changed the dccv again it still didnt work but when i got in later to get a multimeter it came back on and worked for 30 mins (ice cold fogged the windows) and i got out and went inside for the night. Went to get breakfast and on the way home, 20 mins into the drive, it went out and blew hot again. I came home and tested voltage and made sure the fuse was fine and then it worked again... Im stumped here. Wiring? Datc? Its not the dccv...
Click to expand...

I'd bet that your DCCV connector is corroded.
 
FreakinLinkin said:
I looked at it and if it is its hard to see. It just went out again :(
Click to expand...

There's one at the DCCV, and there's another just a little bit above it. You might need to check that one too. If it's truly neither, then it's the wiring or the DATC.
 
FreakinLinkin said:
Car runs fine again, but I am waiting for my set of 8 coils to come in the mail to replace all at once and take the ones from Autozone back for my $160 back (10 off 50 coupon used at 4 different stores from Sugarland to Katy).
Click to expand...


Wait, So your admittingly returning used parts? That's fuckin' sketchy..


Def not something I'd be bragging about.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
Wait, So your admittingly returning used parts? That's fuckin' sketchy..


Def not something I'd be bragging about.
Click to expand...

sht like this is the reason for tearing half a motor apart, putting it all back together and the new part u just put in doesnt work. guess it's every man for himself tho.

i take a realy good look at everything before i walk outa the parts store. if i dont like the way it looks i ask for another, or if it's a simple part i make em write a note on the receipt so i have an easier time returning it especially if it's like an electronic part of something they dont like to return once it's been installed.

just picked up a computer for another car the other day cuz diagnostic flow chart lead to bad computer. new one had clearly been handled and even had a big gouge at the connector. woulda had to drive real far or wait a day for another so i pointed it out to the manager, took it home, threw it in. bam. bad computer. picked up another the next day and it finally worked.

customer service reps around here almost never even look in the box when i return something. (but i suppose most of em know me.) anyway, check ur "new parts" guys and be picky.

ever got a remanned alternator that didnt work? i make em throw em on the tester and run it twice before i leave the store. especially when throwing it in a 05 focus 4 cyl which is a f***ing nightmare (engine mounts, exhaust heat shields, bleedin' everywhere...)
 
TooManyToys said:
A Focus 6cyl isn't much better.
Click to expand...

i bet.

this was one time where the manual lied. said to take it out the top but everyone on forums and whatnot said the bottom was easier. wish i did spend a couple hours tryna get it out the top first.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
Wait, So your admittingly returning used parts? That's fuckin' sketchy..


Def not something I'd be bragging about.
Click to expand...


It was warranty replacement I told them I had installed them I didn't lie to them or lead them to believe otherwise i even brought them back without a box. I told them what I was going to do when I bought them. I know I've left with a bad part before on my eclipse (timing belt tensioner) and that did a lot of damage (no bent valves though) and had to tear all the way back into it again. I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy.
 
Elemino said:
Thanks guys! I'll be heading to sears to pick up one before I do this job! I was just wondering the other day how I'd get those clamps off... Pliers work, but it's usually a pain in the butt, and thats if you can get them in there.
Click to expand...

yeah after you get them off change to a normal screw hose clamp easier to put on and take off lol
 
FreakinLinkin said:
yeah after you get them off change to a normal screw hose clamp easier to put on and take off lol
Click to expand...

Once you have the tool, that's not a problem. My experience is that the spring clamps work better because they compensate as the hose expands and contracts.
 
Jus use vice grips

I just used vice grips to pull off the clamps, then installed new worm drive clamps to replace the ford clamps. If it wasn't for my Lincoln, my tools would rust!:D
 
The A/C blows cold for almost 30 mins every time i let it sit for a couple hours then hot air from then on. is something overheating do you think? Should I re-bleed the coolant even though the temp gauge is only slightly above the middle? do you think the PCM is shutting it off maybe, because 6 different times in a row it blows for 30 mins then hot. I gotta get this fixed this Houston heat mixed with the humidity is killing me lol
 
FreakinLinkin said:
yeah after you get them off change to a normal screw hose clamp easier to put on and take off lol
Click to expand...
Once I have the tool I wont care. Besides, I'd have to go buy the hose clamps.

FreakinLinkin said:
The A/C blows cold for almost 30 mins every time i let it sit for a couple hours then hot air from then on. is something overheating do you think? Should I re-bleed the coolant even though the temp gauge is only slightly above the middle? do you think the PCM is shutting it off maybe, because 6 different times in a row it blows for 30 mins then hot. I gotta get this fixed this Houston heat mixed with the humidity is killing me lol
Click to expand...
lol... I'm getting my LS ready for Dallas heat. I have no clue what the issue is with your car, but I hope I don't have it. You're at the point where I'd just pony up and send it to the shop. I have to do that anyway. One of the A/C lines is leaking, and I'm not equipped to replace it myself.
 
FreakinLinkin said:
The A/C blows cold for almost 30 mins every time i let it sit for a couple hours then hot air from then on. is something overheating do you think? Should I re-bleed the coolant even though the temp gauge is only slightly above the middle? do you think the PCM is shutting it off maybe, because 6 different times in a row it blows for 30 mins then hot. I gotta get this fixed this Houston heat mixed with the humidity is killing me lol
Click to expand...

I would think that you'd get an overheat warning or at least a check engine light if it was an engine overheat problem. The thirty minute thing is interesting. I gather that if you stop the engine and then immediately restart (instead of waiting a couple of hours) that the AC still doesn't work. Is that true? Have you tried running the DATC diagnostics again while the AC is not cooling?

It may be that the best next step now is to use a good scan tool to look at the live sensor readings from the DATC and see what changes when it goes from working to not working.
 
joegr said:
I would think that you'd get an overheat warning or at least a check engine light if it was an engine overheat problem. The thirty minute thing is interesting. I gather that if you stop the engine and then immediately restart (instead of waiting a couple of hours) that the AC still doesn't work. Is that true? Have you tried running the DATC diagnostics again while the AC is not cooling?

It may be that the best next step now is to use a good scan tool to look at the live sensor readings from the DATC and see what changes when it goes from working to not working.
Click to expand...

yeah I work 45 mins away and every day there and back first part of ride is great I even had to turn the A/C down then 30 mins into the trip it goes out. No lights go off and shutting it off then immediately restarting does not help it has to sit for a while (about a couple hours). The DATC does not throw any codes while it is not working which I found weird. When you say good scantool I have a knockoff $20 OBD2 bluetooth scanner I use with my phone and tablet (which actually works quite well for codes and other stuff) I guess I can try that, but I wouldn't know what item to look at or if that is even good enough to pick it up. Otherwise that's the only access to a scantool I have.

Relieved about the not overheating part.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 60 (members: 0, guests: 60)
Back
Top