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4.6powa

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ok. ive been looking into this.. the tccoa site kinda confuses me a bit as to what holes to drill out/size specs... i guess this is because of the differences in years. can anyone simplify all of this for me, like which holes to drill, and size bits used, and make it real simple for me. so i dont suffer the same fate that somone else just did... i feel that i have the ability to do this, and have the tools, and a lift, since i work at a huge ford, lin, merc.. dealership. help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance.


o and i have a 95 mark..
 
Just be done with it and purchase the Baumann Engineering shift kit. It will solve all the problems. I have one in my car and have it set to the highest setting.......I would never do anything else.....yeah, it is a bit more expensive, but the confusion is gone.
 
I went with the trango kit. It came with upgraded valves and inclueded the spec sheets that tell you where everything goes. Even if something falls out and you have not idea where it goes. The very detailed instructions will show you.
It also comes with upgraded acumulator springs and will give you the part numbers to go to ford to get the upgraded 1-2 2-3 shift accumulator. You should change them while you are in there. If you do not know if it was even done. do it while you have the vlave body down. My 1-2 shift spring was broke in 5 places!!! I am sure some else will post higher but I thought that was the worse!!
all that for 100 bucks from summit. One of the acumulator springs cost something in the 50-60 dollar range when I had gone to ford to get it. Getting the kit was a no brainer for me. the kit was almost as much as the springs I was going to replace.
then of course when you are all done refill the tranny with mercon 5...so plane on another 50 bucks for fluid. The whole thing is about 200 to do your self and well worth it in my opion. the car shift massivly better !!
Oh ya before I forget. If you do get the transgo kit. DO NOT install the upgraded converter lock up spring. They upgraded the kit and forgotten to change that part in the instructions. that info alone is worth 60 bucks..LOL
 
4.6powa said:
thanx:)

now what is the reason for swapping for the 96+ pan?
Click to expand...

It's deeper- holding more fluid (13 quarts). That keeps temps down and flow capacity up. While you're down there, install a fluid cooler.

One of the acumulator springs cost something in the 50-60 dollar range when I had gone to ford to get it.
Click to expand...

:eek: I paid something like $70 shipped for everything from Team Ford.
 
Is the bauman shift kit just a replacement valve body? So all I would have to do is unbolt old and put in new?
 
i always recommend printing out all the tccoa docs, explaining to an experienced tranny mech on what you're trying to do, and let him take care of it. should i link to the thread with the kid who thought he could do it himself and blew his tranny last week?
 
4.6powa said:
ok. ive been looking into this.. the tccoa site kinda confuses me a bit as to what holes to drill out/size specs... i guess this is because of the differences in years. can anyone simplify all of this for me, like which holes to drill, and size bits used, and make it real simple for me. so i dont suffer the same fate that somone else just did... i feel that i have the ability to do this, and have the tools, and a lift, since i work at a huge ford, lin, merc.. dealership. help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance.


o and i have a 95 mark..
Click to expand...
Finding the drill bits will probably be the most difficult part. The numbers you see for the drill bits are wire gauge sizes. I found almost all of of them at a local "Ace Hardware" store.

Click here to see where to drill the holes.

Click here to see what to do.

As long as you follow the instructions, there shouldn't be any trouble. Just remember where the checkballs go, and don't lose them.

I also recommend you take (or draw) a picture of how the 3 retainer discs are oriented on the valve body before you remove them. I didn't do that and forgot how they looked causing me to have to drain the fluid and remove the valve body multiple times till I got them back the way they were before I took them off; it sucked.

The mild setting will be noticably firmer, but still shift smooth for normal (sane) driving. I drilled mine to the 300-450 hp setting, and left out the lower 1-2 spring. The shift shock is pretty hard this way and I like it, though I wouldn't go any higher than that on my car.

From what I've read, those '95 transmissions are pretty lousy. Don't count on yours to hold up to a bunch of hard takeoffs for long; it won't matter what shift kit you choose, that intermediate clutch (2nd gear) will fail.
 
if done right you wont regret it.


i spent 62 and change for everything. including a new lower 1-2 accum spring that i didnt use.
 
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