I just put on coil overs from americanairsuspension aka Eddie. This is what I did to remove front airshocks. Buy a can of PB Buster pentrant and start spraying parts for a few days while studing what needs to be done.
First see if the lower airshock bolt/NUT can be losened on both sides, the bolt that goes through the lower control arm bushing, will take about 200 ft.lbs impact air minimum dependant on rust, if these can't be removed go to a shop to get work done. If these can be losened you can do the conversion yourself.The wheels are going to need to be turned fully one way using stering wheel to get a very large impact on the lower shock nut/bolt. A rod slightly smaller in diameter than the bolt will be needed to hammer the bolt though lower bushing leave nut on end tip of bolt bolt when starting to use a 2 1/2lb. hammer use more pb buster. When nut gets to the air shock mounting remove nut and use rod to beat bolt all the way out other side. Discard bolt/nut and replace if bolt/nut shows signs of wollowing (thining of shank of bolt where meets bushing) Apeaskey sweek and clunk do new bolts here.
If and only if this bushing bolt was through is still good can the lower control arm need not be removed, because the lower ball joint and the other bushings on the lower control arm may require inspection and replacment of lower and upper control arm can be done during this time if desired or funds are available to do so. The new lower control arm will be missing a bushing it is highly suggested to use OEM ford replacements especialy at the K member frame area.The big "STRUT" bar that ataches to the frame near radiator.
Once the lower bolts on both sides can be removed than is it only worth while to do the easy nuts and bolts. Next hardest will be the upper control arm bolt attached to upper ball joint, take the nut off the bolt. The bolt has a shape to it to fit onto the upper ball joint.See the split in the arm pinching bolt, spray pb buster and gently pry with large prybar "slightly" between the spilt than spin nut on tip end of bolt and use a regular hammer beating on nut rather than mushrooming end of bolt.With free hand move upper control arm up and down slightly to ease tension from bolt spray more pb buster. Once bolts starts moving to the nut than remove nut and continue to remove bolt, now the shape of bolt onto ball joint can be seen. Once the upper control arm is removed from rest of suspension nothing else needs to be removed to get airbag off and coil overs on. Now break o-ring seal on airbag remove clip and turn 1/4 and pull down air bag air solinoid or razer knife leaking airbag shock thats is for sure shot, might as well get in trunk and turn air ride switch off. Oh by the way four jack stands and car lifted at least ten inches upon stands (5 notches on mine)needed to get under and max suspension travel.
These two bolts per side are the hardest do first or do not attempt conversion period ,got it in this order.I do not remember if front sway bar was unbolted from endlinks??? On the rear the endlinks can be replaced at this time the back endlinks must be removed top side nut and inspect endlink bushings or do not replace if newer good bushings you'll see em when back there.
Well still on the front only thing left are top side nuts that should be on the plate bar engine compartment side pass side easy access driverside may be covered under near scan access point. Air bag shocks are ready to drop down, lift upper a-arm slips right out.
Eddie from americanairsusension hooked me up, better than the lemon ride I had plowing gravel as well after my compressor and relays fried and front air bags dry rotted at the fold under seam.I assume the 1 1/2 inch lower coilover kit goes on real easy, I have the standard hight and just goes in tight and only one way with minimual bolts/nuts parts removed from car.He includes instuction pack that differs than above slightly, Don't get rough and mad and putting your hands on other parts and the brake line won't break.
Back is easy but needs strong hand twisting ability to break the adhesive tape on original rear airbag shocks top side.Do not knife good used airshock bags the OEM rear is a better durability design wise.
As third hardest bolt is the rear shocks lower bolt, Get these three sets of bolts/nuts loose and be able to twist the rear bags you'l be set to do the conversion.
On the rear from under car take a good look around the rear lower Aluminum arm under airshock and all the connection points and bushings take a real assesment what else may need to be done now, the first time. Make the plans now to source these prised often hard to comeby bushings. Don't care what anyone else thinks...can't go wrong with the OEM Ford parts that lasted this long and now needs replaced.Good luck finding OEM.
Now under back, By the way all four tires were removed, after shocks are removed work on twisting the airbag. Dosen't matter if aired up or not twist it and try it again till its done, if different leverage is needed remove the solinoid to deflate bag and work on it some more or buy some beer and have someone help twist...it will come off think positive.If more room is needed than unnut swaybar endlinks.
Congradulations when the rears twist out, you earned it. Now clean up the loose air and eletrical conectors nice and tidy endcaped in electrical tape and snaptie secure out of the way now take a break and read the install directions.
The springs on mine are all upright with the strutmaster made in usa stampings readable and not upside down. The back springs will go in just as packaged without compresson using a footlong prybar and downward force on outeraxel wheel when endlinks removed. I linedup a sping pigtail in each lower slot in a-arm;spring flats up into the cup supplied.
Prybar the lower sping pig tail towards the 2"x3" slot and into the lower a-arm slot. This is the toughest part of the conversion install, now your home free and Now use a meetered touqe wrench here on out and know what a drop of Llocktight blue and cleaning solvent is used for the nut tourqe specs. I also highly suggest antiseise as lube for boltshanks(you know the right bolts to get right...no threads at the bushings smoth shank and new unused bolt threads.What else is needed to be known? The instuctions included give the bolt torqe specs. I highly suggest OEM AIRSHOCKS if this can be done...I had multiple failures and the other front OEM bag was just starting to crack at the seams. Nice "smoth" ride and ability to drop and raise hight at will or a few turns of a wench. Thats the right speeeling depends who I'm picking up or parking droped low.
