Installing rear swaybar & lateral links

Jtown

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All around this on my search so maybe you guys recall a link:

1) Replacing my four items stated above (rear swaybar and lateral links). Do I put the car on jack stands with the wheels hanging or do I use ramps with the vehicle weight on the suspension?

My plan was to use jack stands at the rear locations before the wheels and pull the rear wheels off. Try to match up the new lateral links with the old and install. I'll get the torque specs from another post.

2) Where do I put my jack to lift the rear end so I can place jack stands correctly? The rear diff?

Using genuine FMC parts but can't believe they don't give you new nuts given the $!

Boots are split on the originals. 03 LS w/ 53k.

3) Should the alignment be done at the dealer due to the knowledge required to get it correct? Have installed new upper control arms, swaybar links, tie rods ends, brakes and rotors.
 
couple pics of the front after some suspension parts and brake work.

IMG_20190118_150153.jpg


IMG_20190118_145056.jpg
 
I would not lift it by the differential. It does not normally hold up any weight. It is only mounted by it's cover, not it's body.
 
Understand. Lifting it on the side at the jack point means I have to put the jack stand someplace else. Is there a location in the rear (x2) for each stand once it's up in the air?
 
joegr, you're a great asset here. Thank you.

Do you know if I should jack the car up, pull the wheels, and just switch out the two rear end components? Wheels off the ground or on ramps?
 
joegr, you're a great asset here. Thank you.

Do you know if I should jack the car up, pull the wheels, and just switch out the two rear end components? Wheels off the ground or on ramps?
The way I did the rear tie rod torque links or lateral links as most ppl call them is I Jacked the car up and before removing old part I measured the distance from bolt to bolt and set the new part at that distance after removing the old lateral links I placed a jack stand under the shock absorber on lower control arm just so it would lower to proper level and released the jack so it was going down and leveling out so the new lateral arm would fit into slot I lowered the jack very slow and stopped and locked up the jack again when it was level and I could see the new part would slide into the slot perfectly ...not sure if this is the proper proceedure but it worked wonderful...always use the Shop manual to perform the suspension components to proceedure ...I suggest you do my operation at your own risk ...basically don’t perform this proceedure that I explained if you think it will cause bodily harm
 
I think it's a matter of personal choice. I think you can do those parts with the wheels on, so I would feel safer getting under there with it on ramps.
 
They are the original factory stuff. After two e36 M3 bmw's, a 97 Eldorado, a 98 S class Benz, an 89 SHO, a couple Jeep wj Grand Cherokee's, you think I learn my lesson. I like rescuing these older (but not too old) cars and bringing them back to beautiful shape. Fix um and drive it for a while, then sell it to make room for something new. Relying on smart and creative guys like you who you on these forums is critical to success. This LS is the most difficult to work on for sure and the lack of some critical parts makes me think I won't own it for long. A critical failure could be tough to overcome.

There are lots of references to a shop manual. Are they still available? With such a short production run for the LS, this is the first car I've bought that lacks that cult following. The SHO has headed that way also.

I basically repair and replace anything that needs it and then over-maintenance the rest. I'm anal about cleaning along the way. Struts were pulled and cleaned when doing the upper control arm bolts. I clean stuff no one will ever see or care about. That's why a two-hour job takes me 4 to 5 hours.
 
I think it's a matter of personal choice. I think you can do those parts with the wheels on, so I would feel safer getting under there with it on ramps.
I hear both you guy loud and clear. Pulling wheels lets me take a good look at all the components and evaluate. I just want the articulation to benefit install and as a new car to me, I have to learn as I go (with yuns help. For instance; the cooling system and degas issues. Flushing the cooling system is anything but intuitive. Following a process is critical, very unusual.
 
Weird... changing swaybar links and adj. tie rods was about the easiest thing I've done suspension wise on any car of late. Adj. tie rods came off and measured about perfect with the new FMC parts so I put them on with zero adjustments accounting for some wear (maybe).

The bitch (?), my upper rear control are bushings are degraded in two of the three mount locations. Well, they have blown out bushing covers. Did not want to get into this.
 
Weird... changing swaybar links and adj. tie rods was about the easiest thing I've done suspension wise on any car of late. Adj. tie rods came off and measured about perfect with the new FMC parts so I put them on with zero adjustments accounting for some wear (maybe).

The bitch (?), my upper rear control are bushings are degraded in two of the three mount locations. Well, they have blown out bushing covers. Did not want to get into this.
common issue unfortunately ...What year do you have again? I apologize I'm sure I saw it somewhere...anyway yeah like 04' said " suspension...engine...coolant system...repeat lol
 
The bitch (?), my upper rear control are bushings are degraded in two of the three mount locations. Well, they have blown out bushing covers. Did not want to get into this.

Yeah... I actually sourced some of the bushings for the upper control arms... but the problem is by the time the bushings start to go... the ball socket is shot... and I have not been able to locate a source for it... or the press fit cap. So only option is new arms.
 
Yeah... I actually sourced some of the bushings for the upper control arms... but the problem is by the time the bushings start to go... the ball socket is shot... and I have not been able to locate a source for it... or the press fit cap. So only option is new arms.
Do I need to get an alignment if I do the rear upper control arms only?

Asking because I'm just not ready to put new uppers on. Did the front uppers, tie rod ends, swaybar links front and rear, new rear lateral links. An alignment is required for that stuff for sure. I'd like to drive the car a little to see if I even want to keep her. If yes, I'll do the upper rears.
 
No, you don't need an alignment for rear control arms.
 
Thanks. Joegr.

Have one dealer quote so far: tranny flush $220, align $117 all plus tax.

Are you in Gulfport LA? Was down there for some beach volleyball tourney with my girls a couple years ago. Beautiful beaches. Wifey wants to go back.
 

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