installing OEM springs (especially the fronts)

XR$Ti

LVC Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Location
Canada
Hey,

I just registered to share this with you guys since I got a lot of good suspension info off here.

2005 Ultimate (117k kms): My 2 rear springs were broken and a font hub was gone so I figured I'd replace springs/shocks all around and both front hubs.

The car is driven in the winter in Canada so I didn't want to lower with the Eibach springs, otherwise I would have gone that route (also, I was looking for a stiffer shock to match with the Eibachs but couldn't find one. I guess most are running stock shocks or KYBs). BTW, Eibachs are way cheaper than OEM springs. If I recall, I could get the set of 4 for the price of 2 OEM.

I went with stock springs and KYB shocks and OEM hubs.

The rears were easy enough and a simple Fri night project.

The fronts were a different story (BTW, I bet this isn't a problem with the Eibachs). Your parts store compressor will not work with the fronts unless you like ticking time bombs. The style that look like a couple of pickle forks may work better as I've had success with those in the past on other vehicles but I couldn't get my hands on one quickly.

The fronts with a 2nd lower coil that is ~3.5" in dia. plus a heavy gauge spring, plus the angle of the turns, make for a very difficult spring to compress. It doesn't help that the KYBs, when fully extended are about 1" shorter than OEM.

After struggling with the fronts for a day, I decided to take them in to a shop. The first shop has a $1000 hand operated compressor but the tension was way too much so he said no way. The 2nd shop said they wouldn't fit their machine. Both referred me to _the_ machine shop and service garage in the area. The service shop said they tried doing fronts on an LS last year and couldn't compress them. They referred me to a heavy equipment shop but I didn't bother as they likely wouldn't have tools that would adjust to such a small dia. It seemed like the only option was to get the machine shop to make a jig and use a larger hydraulic press.

So I used the car as the press. Undo the lower ball joint, loosely install the top insulator, line up the spring/shock assembly, work the shock into the lower mount point and bolt it up. Then with a jack on the outer end of the control arm, you can slowly compress the spring. The only tricky part next is to line up the shock shaft to run it through the top mount, but that was surprisingly easy. Turn on the shock nut and you're done. You're also halfway done with the install since you have the shock in place.

This was surprisingly easy and so much safer than the conventional compress and install on the loose shock. It probably takes the same or less time too.

PS No surprise that the hubs were corroded in. Remove the dust shield as that gives you an opposite side of the hub to hammer on to knock them out.
 
I had no trouble doing the fronts; neither did my local shop. I've done the fronts at least 5 times on my and a few friends' LSes.
 
Interesting. I dropped my car off at my local dealer for an alignment today and mentioned I had put on new parts and the first thing they said is how did I get the fronts springs on.
 
Never heard of this before. Did my fronts alone (and also helped a buddy do his) with hand tools and a spring compressor from pep boys with no major issues. Time consuming yes, but after getting one side done the other takes less than half the time. Weird that happened to you :confused:
 
Done it several times too, no probs. But using the car as a press is an idea I hadnt heard of. I may try that next time
 
Haha! Maybe it's the combination of stuff?

- new high-rate OEM spring (longer than lowering spring, stiffer than used spring)
- KYB shock (shorter than OEM shock)

Guess I can't be so proud of myself after all. But with my 250 ft-lb impact gun, it was struggling on the spring compressor -- enough that it made breaking the spring compressor a real consideration.
 
I did mine a few months back and just used a jack....but I replaced everything up front....did the rears the same.

passenger_zpsa38e6f0b.jpg
 
Good pic, that's how I did mine, except everything was still in place but the lower ball joint and hub.
 
Great first post XR, I bet it was the odd combination of sizes you were working with... This will be great info for anyone that runs into this problem (although I'd express extreme caution compressing an unlocked spring (careful where your standing as you compress)) ... pat on the back is well deserved...

HITE, let me know when you want to try :D
 
I would never advise using an impact on a spring compressor. Thats asking for trouble.

Yeah, I agree. I use it to get things started but in this case it loaded up much faster than any other spring I've done, including the rears.

Great forum, BTW. Lots of good info.
 
Yeah, I agree. I use it to get things started but in this case it loaded up much faster than any other spring I've done, including the rears.

Great forum, BTW. Lots of good info.

Yes to get the initial tightening done, an impact is fine. But when the tension gets snug, I would use a wrench for the rest of the spring. The reason an impact isnt a good all the way is friction. The bolt shaft spinning in the collars creates heat and flattens the threads. This also causes the nut to work harder to get over the flattened threads. This degrades the bolt to the point of failure....and this can kill you. Just a note of caution for anyone reading this thread in the future.

Excellent first thread and welcome to LVC.
 
Impacts are a necessary evil. Just like a blue-tip wrench.
 
I like the KYB shock/OEM spring combination so far. Hard to compare with the full OEM setup though as I don't know how long I was driving on broken rears. No big difference either way so the best I can say now is the ride is comparable.
 
Just wanted to comment to say that I had to use this technique yesterday after being unable to use a spring compressor on the front, and it worked a treat. One note that may be obvious to some, but you have to slightly loosen the nuts on the lower control arm to be able to do this.
 
Just wanted to comment to say that I had to use this technique yesterday after being unable to use a spring compressor of three front, and it worked a treat. One note that may be obvious to some, but you have to slightly loosen the nuts on the lower control arm to be able to do this.

Glad to hear it worked out. I had considered that when working on it, and thought I might have to loosen them, but in the end did not.
 
Glad to hear it worked out. I had considered that when working on it, and thought I might have to loosen them, but in the end did not.

In that case, your lower control arm bushings might have been shot. ;-) I tried it first without loosening the bolts, and even when carefully using a tire iron to get some extra leverage to push down on the lower control arm, I could not get it low enough to bolt in the shock. I'm actually hoping I didn't damage my own bushings in the attempt....
 
Also, another quick FYI, I did the other side this weekend and used this technique to also remove the old shock from the spring. All in all, it made the process incredibly fast and easy. With the knuckle out of the way and the jack supporting the lower control arm, it was a simple matter of removing the main nut from the shock while still mounted in the car, and then slowly releasing the jack. The shock and the spring come right out, and the mount can then be easily removed.

The other benefit of installing the shock this way is that you can skip all that stuff in the shop manual about making reference marks on the spring and the mount and the shock to keep them all aligned. It's virtually impossible not to have everything lined up properly when you install them this way.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top