I must be missing something

[02lsveight]

I was reading through the instructions on bleeding the coolant system in the tech section. It talks about opening the engine fill cap and also about the degas bottle. I have the v8 and the only place to fill I can see is the degas bottle. Am I not seeing the engine fill cap, or am I reading it wrong and it's one and the same? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

 

[NickT88LSC]

Not sure if gen 1 or 2 but by your screen name I assume gen 1, on gen 1 remove engine cover and you will see it in front of intake dead center and has a allen key slot, the cap is plastic so be ready with a replacement one which is about $15

I was reading through the instructions on bleeding the coolant system in the tech section. It talks about opening the engine fill cap and also about the degas bottle. I have the v8 and the only place to fill I can see is the degas bottle. Am I not seeing the engine fill cap, or am I reading it wrong and it's one and the same? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

 

[02lsveight]

Thanks for the info!

 

[RigsLS]

50/50 change the Tstat housing will crack when attempting to get the cap off. Mine was on real good, couldn't get it off.
bought a replacement cap ... but by the time my degas bottle started to leak I had already ordered in the Aluminum Jag Stat.

Did end up getting the "very" stuck OEM cap off without cracking or breaking the housing. The formed Allen key was useless, ended up using a rag and wise grips while engine temp was warm. 10+yr old PVC plastics that's been exposed to excessive heat cycles ... proned to break.


PS: if you are down in coolant level in the degas bottle, do not get much heat through the heater core and/or have troubles getting a solid stream from the bleed valve tube during bleeding, there is then potentially a lack of pressure in the system due to leaks. Degas bottle may be in your near future and do not purchase the Dorman brand.

 

[02lsveight]

Thanks for the info. My coolant level is fine and I javent overheated at all but I tested out my heater and its only blowing warm when the rpms are up, and not hot even then. Gonna bleed the aystem and hope that fixes it. I've noticed the ac blow warm a couple times though so it might be by dccv from what I've been reading on here.

50/50 change the Tstat housing will crack when attempting to get the cap off. Mine was on real good, couldn't get it off.
bought a replacement cap ... but by the time my degas bottle started to leak I had already ordered in the Aluminum Jag Stat.

Did end up getting the "very" stuck OEM cap off without cracking or breaking the housing. The






formed Allen key was useless, ended up using a rag and wise grips while engine temp was warm. 10+yr old PVC plastics that's been exposed to excessive heat cycles ... proned to break.


PS: if you are down in coolant level in the degas bottle, do not get much heat through the heater core and/or have troubles getting a solid stream from the bleed valve tube during bleeding, there is then potentially a lack of pressure in the system due to leaks. Degas bottle may be in your near future and do not purchase the Dorman brand.

 

[RigsLS]

There's air in the system and you'll not be able to attain proper pressure in the system.

No heat at idle on the Gen I is the Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump, it's located directly above the DCCV on the left side looking down from the front beside the radiator. The Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump is used on the GEN I's to push the heated coolant to the sub system during low RPMs. It's a 12 volt little motor with an inlet and outlet tube. Check your fuses first.

Re&Re - OEM Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump - GEN 1 V8
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...p-Re-OEM-Auxiliary-Coolant-Flow-Pump-GEN-1-V8

Just a note here: they system needs full pressure to enable it to deliver hot coolant to the interior heater core. If there are leaks throughout, being the degas bottle, the degas bottle pressure cap or other PVC coolant piping, it will not be able to be bled properly and therefore, little or no heat.

These problems are common on aging GEN I LS'es and majority of us have been there, done that.

The degas bottle will begin to develop hairline cracks at the back side of the firewall.
The inlet/outlet tubes develop hairline cracks.
Thermostat and or housing goes bad.
DCCV & Auxiliary coolant flow pump stops working.

Once you fix one thing on the cooling system, something else follows within the month.

Like I said, most of us have replaced entire systems with new parts. (ask me how I know)