Ok, first of all, this isn't as easy as it looks. The instructions don't tell you how long it takes to loosen each and every bolt and nut, or how long it takes to pound a bolt out of its housing b/c it's so tightly corroded. I used half a can of PB Blaster today, and I had already sprayed everything last Wednesday. Make sure you have deep sockets, because the upper bolts in the engine compartment have very little angle to use a wrench and the bolts are so long a regular socket won't work. Make sure you have a VERY BIG WRENCH for the lower control arm/strut bolt. Even with an oversize wrench I had to put my entire weight on it to get it to budge. Tapping it out is very difficult, since there are metal hoses in its path. It took me 20 minutes of maneuvering, jacking up and down the control arm, and wiggling for EACH BOLT to get them free. Same thing for the knuckle/upper control arm bolts. 20 minutes each. I had to run out twice for tools because I got stuck. Oh, and when it says, "Peel back the inner fender cover," FIRST look for the plastic double pin holding it in place. You have to remove the insert pin first, which will allow the outer pin to release from the fender well. THEN you can peel back the inner fender cover. That pin gave me a lot of trouble until I figured out what it was.
Also, the replacement strut is not compressed, so the lower control arm has to be jacked up to put the bolt back in. Not only that, but I found out that the only way that you can hold the assembly in place under the car while putting nuts on the bolts in the engine compartment is if you're...SUPERMAN! That assembly weighs, I don't know, thirty or forty pounds? I had to use a jack to lift it into position, then get up and work in the engine compartment.
This is not a knock on Black Ice or anybody else who has been so helpful. I just want to be real and truthful for those of you who, like me, may have read these instructions and got the idea that this would be a piece of cake. And have never done this before. A few parts of it were easy. But mostly it was back-breaking, hammer-pounding, grime-covered labor. I would recommend to anyone who tries this to be in a spacious area, with access to specialty tools as well as standard tools, a lift, and definitely some power tools and maybe even some air tools. I could have done this in two hours with air tools and a lift. Also, read the instructions and study the photos over and over again before starting. And be prepared for things to go wrong. They will. I apparently did everything the hard way.
I did have a laugh, though. Despite Black Ice's warnings not to be alarmed when the air came out of the air bag in a rush, it literally scared the bejesus out of me. I had pushed the solenoid out to the first stop, where it snapped tightly into place. I mistakenly thought that it had released the air. Then I twisted it to the second stop, and WHOOOOOOSSHHHHH! I flattened myself against the wall on my butt, heart pounding. Then I started laughing. That air pressure noise is no joke. I was ready for it the second time.
All in all, except for the fact that I now have a ruined end link, and that I didn't get to the back today, I am satisfied with the results. Of course, now that the car is lower in the front and stock in the back, I look like I have some sort of hot rod. But that'll change tomorrow.
Thanks to Black Ice LSC for his directions. I couldn't have even gotten to first base without them. And thanks to Eddie at American Air Suspension for selling me the set of coil overs (that are apparently manufactured by Strutmasters.com). They are tough-looking parts and seem sturdy. I know I will be pleased with the car's new height. With just the front done, I can tell the ride is no worse than the air ride was, and that's good enough for me. No more collapsing suspensions, costly repairs, or error messages for me!
