Hydraulic Fan; Relay or Solenoid ?

Travis2000LS

Travis2000LS

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Okay so I did a complete flush on the 2000 Lincoln LS V8's Hydraulic Fan system the otherday due to the fact it had water in it and My car has been overheating..

Been noticing that when the car is cold and from a fresh start the fan Kicks on to low and High.. Itll be on low and every about 20 secs it woould kick on to High for about 5 seconds. It does this for a few minutes or so then when Temp starts rising the fan never Actuates itself..

Is there a Temperature sensor relay or a solenoid going out or something??
Keep in mind it does it everytime it is from a fresh start ( fluctuates from high to low ) but when Temp rises it completly just stays on the low setting.. wont change over..

Is there a way I can test a relay or whatnot to jump it to the high setting or what..

I dont know much about the fan system..

I was told just now that it oculd be a temperature sending unit also??
 
Also found on Rock auto Underneath the Cooling System section Temperature Sensor

Found Temperature sensors but they seem to be for the Oil temp??

Could the Oil Temp sensor regulate the Cooling Fan??

ANY advice is helpful atm
 
I see no reason to suspect the head temperature or coolant temperature sensors.
It's quite possible that the speed control solenoid is sticking and that is causing the strange symptoms. It's likely that is is sticking because of the corrosion that was caused by the water. You can replace the solenoid, and maybe you will be lucky and that will be that. It's also possible that the same corrosion was started in the pump and in the fan motor and you'll be stuck replacing the whole system.
 
Okay, where would I find a new Solenoid for the fan. and Its weird..
When it cold it goes form high to low speed.
When it get to operating temp the fan is just stuck on low setting no matter what..

Where would i buy this Solenoid :O
 
Travis2000LS said:
Okay, where would I find a new Solenoid for the fan. and Its weird..
When it cold it goes form high to low speed.
When it get to operating temp the fan is just stuck on low setting no matter what..

Where would i buy this Solenoid :O
Click to expand...

Sorry, but the answer is "search." It's been covered many times on this forum.
Max (ad to the right) can sell you the part.
 
Apparently I cannot find the Solenoid.. Sorry for asking.. Ive been using the Search bar for about 2 or 3 hours now and cannot really find an answer, tis why I asked.
 
I searched EBAY, LVC, Google, and no luck on finding where i can buy a Solenoid.
Also

That FiveStarFord.com or whatever add.. 1-800-866-1520
Im guessing the site has been replaced with http://www.chapmanfordaz.com

So ya.. The link is basically broken..
So If you wouldnt mind, if you knew where i could buy a solenoid at.. help
 
 
Thanks a ton. Called ford today .. 147$ and some
Change for pumP actuator.. Really hoping that it is the actuator. Like I said . It fluctuates from high to low when it is cold but when it starts getting half way on temp Gage it just stays on low entire time no matter what. Is it possible that the actuator could be old and when hot it stops working or sticks? And thanks for all the threads.
Helped out alot on what i need to look into and how to tackle the job.
 
mrzeee said:
I charge 110.82 plus shipping for that xw4z-3783-ca actuator.
Click to expand...

I called the local Ford dealer. They told me it is part of the hydraulic pump assembly.
Called for Max, but he wasn't in. So I spoke with... Ted... I think that was his name.
Anyway, Ted told me the same thing. Am I describing the part wrong? "Cooling fan actuator, Solenoid. Located on the P/S rear of the Hydro pump".
Is xw4z-3783-ca the part number?
 
drag214 said:
I called the local Ford dealer. They told me it is part of the hydraulic pump assembly.
Called for Max, but he wasn't in. So I spoke with... Ted... I think that was his name.
Anyway, Ted told me the same thing. Am I describing the part wrong? "Cooling fan actuator, Solenoid. Located on the P/S rear of the Hydro pump".
Is xw4z-3783-ca the part number?
Click to expand...

Yes this is the correct part number buddy. It cost me 158$ today at Cook Whitehead Ford Panama City FL.

:/ They are robbing me. But I guess 1 Day shipping isnt all that bad.
 
Spoke to Max. He returned my call. And got me a good deal. $120 after S/H. But I needed a second one for my other LS. So I called the dealer back and this time I was armed with the part number so they couldn't BS me. $125 out the door. I bought a clock spring as well, so he got me whole sale prices.
 
I installed the actuator in my LS. Very easy 30 min. Didn't remove the alt or the hoses.
I got under the car with 13inches of extension on my ratchet and pushed the reservoir hose to the side. When I pulled the actuator, all the oil spilled out. (So much for the vacuum line idea) It was only about half a quart. Since then everything worked like a charm.

Quick recap:

Unscrew old actuator. Check!
Drop extension in oil pan . Check!
Install new actuator. Check!
Fill reservoir and purge system. Check!

Gloat….. Check!
 
drag214 said:
I installed the actuator in my LS. Very easy 30 min. Didn't remove the alt or the hoses.
I got under the car with 13inches of extension on my ratchet and pushed the reservoir hose to the side. When I pulled the actuator, all the oil spilled out. (So much for the vacuum line idea) It was only about half a quart. Since then everything worked like a charm.

Quick recap:

Unscrew old actuator. Check!
Drop extension in oil pan . Check!
Install new actuator. Check!
Fill reservoir and purge system. Check!

Gloat….. Check!
Click to expand...

How do you "Purge?"
 
I suspect that to purge the system you would disconnect the return hose at the reservoir and hold it over a bucket. Start the engine and keep pouring new fluid in until clean new fluid comes out.

Also, from the manual:
NOTE: It is not uncommon to repeat this procedure
three times.
1. Fill the hydraulic cooling fan reservoir to the
MAX level.
• Use Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-Purpose
(ATF) Transmission Fluid.
2. Apply vacuum for two to three minutes.
• Remove the vacuum pump.
3. Start the engine and turn the A/C on MAX. This
will run the hydraulic fan. If a whining noise is
heard, repeat the procedure.

Diagnostics:
Hydraulic Cooling Fan Reservoir
1. Reduce the fluid in the reservoir by half.
2. Attach the scan tool to the vehicle.
3. Start the engine and command MAX fan.
4. Maintain 2,500 rpm. Fluid should be observed
through the reservoir returning. The internal retui|i
afso functions as a relief valve; fluid must be
observed through the sides of the return. If the
fluid is not returning through the sides, the scree
is plugged. If no or little return is observed or the
fluid is returning through the pressure relief,
install a new reservoir.
Hydraulic Cooling Fan Motor
1. Inspect the fan blade and shroud for any foreign
materials. Clear the obstruction and continue the
test procedure.
2. Rotate the fan to see if any contact between the
shroud and blade exists. If contact is observed,
install a new fan shroud assembly.
3. Rotate the fan by hand. The fan should rotate
freely (no resistance should be felt, the fan will
free wheel with minimum effort). If any resistance
is present, install a new fan assembly.
4. Attempt to move the fan blade and shaft in and out
and side to side. If any movement is detected
install a new fan assembly.
Hydraulic Cooling Fan Pump
^±± WARNING: Do not touch the flowmeter
during the test procedure or severe burns and
serious injury may occur.
1. Z£± CAUTION: Make sure that the
connection point will not interfere with any of
the engine accessory drive components or drive
belts.
NOTE: On some vehicles the port may not be
easily accessible. The power steering analyzer
should then be hooked up at the hydraulic cooling
fan motor or at a point in the high pressure line
between the motor and the hydraulic cooling fan
pump.
Install the power steering analyzer at the high
pressure port of the hydraulic cooling fan pump.
Make sure the power steering analyzer gate is
fully open.
2. ZlA CAUTION: A noisy fan system must be
bled and refilled before proceeding with any of
the test procedures. For additional
information, refer to Hydraulic Cooling Fan
System Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Check the cooling fan hydraulic fluid level. If
necessary, add fluid.
• Use MERCON® Multi-Purpose (ATF)
Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX meeting Ford
specification MERCON® or equivalent


Note that a later TSB said to use Mercon V instead of Mercon.
 
I was driving a lot today in mid 90s temps, amazed that the solenoid has been fine since replacing in 2010. Then at a long light, my a/c compressor shut off, I looked down at the temp gauge and it was shooting straight up. The lamp came on for 2 minutes, and gradually, speed on the road increased. It was a white knuckle ride for over 10 miles of lots of stoppages, and few open space runs. I got it home on the normal line, a/c off because I am sick but not insane. New solenoid on its way, List 300, net 210. Ouch. I think I got my first one from Mr Zee above, for his normal price of 110 or so. I am half surprised that these actuators are still available.
 
I assume you didn't hear the fan screaming during the overheat and that's what lead you to believe its the solenoid.
 
Yes, the fan had been running at top speed in the weather that day's high heat, and it just quit. I started it yesterday in much lower temps just to charge the battery and while it was idling, I put the A/C back on to see what speed the fan would run at and it was actually back to pumping pretty much high volume air (the hydraulic fan). Not wanting to see this problem return when it gets back up to 95 degrees, I am still changing the actuator tonight when the part is delivered. The first time it failed, 7 years ago, it was under the same conditions, so my conclusion is that the actuator fails under heavy load when it first begins to die. I drove it to work today since it's only around 60 degrees and I can't be held up in any traffic by using 20 miles of back roads, and all seems fine. I'll still be changing the part, though.
 
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