How to get into the 11's & 10's

11 sec. car

good job with that. questions. my set up is close to yours except 3.73 gears. havnt been on strip yet. what size rear tires,what rpm shift point and what rpms at finish? when you get the time send me a pm i need to decide 4.10 or 4.30 in next week or 2. thanks for your help
 
Hi Mecaple1, I have 17" Cobra-R wheels with Mickey Thompson 26 x 11.5 x17 (Bias ply)(Not Radial) ET Streets that I bought on ebay from Summit Racing. This size is one of the few Cheater slicks that needs no tube. The dia is close to stock 26.5" to the stock 26.6" and they fit into the wheel well on the 9" wide Cobra-Rs just fine. The dia of the tires with the gears 4:10 and the OD turned off ends up at 6,250 at the end at 120 mph. Mine now is only shifting at 5,600 rpms and I plan to have that changed to at least 6,200 rpms. If I changed my valve springs to the newer better beehive style I may rev it to 6,500. Do you know what type of valve springs you have. In hind sight I think I would have liked 4:30 gears so I could put even bigger tires in the back just because I like the look. But I have no complaints about mines performance though. Hope this helps, Don
 
If I changed my valve springs to the newer better beehive style I may rev it to 6,500+.

Fixed that for ya. ;) I was shifting at 6700rpms at the track with the beehives. I think 7000rpms is the absolute limit I would go with the beehives and rightfully so because I think that other engine components are at risk at that point on stock internals. Don, you're sure rockin' the hell out of that motor right now. I'm glad it's lasting to put some others to shame. Currently, I think the meth injection and safer shift points on your setup are a lot to do with that. Goes to show, you can go fast and stay in one piece. :cool:
 
Contrary to what I originally thought with these cars, I am going to have my shift points raised all the way to 7K rpm when it gets on the dyno. It's time to make this car a high-revving NA monster.
 
I always use to just shift manually before I put the s/c on now I'm like afraid to
 
I always use to just shift manually before I put the s/c on now I'm like afraid to

I ran my times last year manually shifting, but that's only because I found out that the 6200 and 6400 rpm shift points are WAY too low. It was simply a crutch for having a chitty tune and I still couldn't shift to 7k. Technically, these cars should NOT be manually shifted.

With your Vortech setup, your shift points need to be up there. 7K rpms is the max. Even with my setup, I think that 6500 rpms is still short shifting. If you are at 6000-6200 rpms, you need to go higher. WAY higher.

I think that you'll also find that with a Cobra intake, you are going to be making more power in the upper range than you are with your stock manifold now and will benefit even more from the higher shift points. The forced induction is somewhat blanketing the manifold issue to a certain extent, but it's still there. Just a thought. ;)

Between that and a better stall converter choice with higher shift points in the tune, low 12s would be very attainable I would think. And don't forget the driver mod. :p
 
I ran my times last year manually shifting, but that's only because I found out that the 6200 and 6400 rpm shift points are WAY too low. It was simply a crutch for having a chitty tune and I still couldn't shift to 7k. Technically, these cars should NOT be manually shifted.

With your Vortech setup, your shift points need to be up there. 7K rpms is the max. Even with my setup, I think that 6500 rpms is still short shifting. If you are at 6000-6200 rpms, you need to go higher. WAY higher.

I think that you'll also find that with a Cobra intake, you are going to be making more power in the upper range than you are with your stock manifold now and will benefit even more from the higher shift points. The forced induction is somewhat blanketing the manifold issue to a certain extent, but it's still there. Just a thought. ;)

Between that and a better stall converter choice with higher shift points in the tune, low 12s would be very attainable I would think. And don't forget the driver mod. :p

you talk about alot of higher shift points and i know you've got the cobra intake, but how many miles are on your shortblock and have you done anything to it? how long have you been taking it to the track and/or just driving it like you stole it? from what ive read and seen your pushing the limits of the motor continually.what is the stock rev limiter at and where are the stock shift points ? when i was trying to find mine ( by driving hard) it shifted around 5800 at WOT. its weird because even at part throttle with the 3.27 rear it will chirp tires ( remember ive got a new tranny with like a 400 over stock tc.) and all the way to stock shift at WOT it will bark the tires, but ive moved the shift points to 300 rpm over stock ( thats the other thing, on the sniper you can change everything, but it goes in increments over stock you cant put it at 6200 rpm or whatever) but when i move it higher it wont make any noise. it seems, at the torque peak or somewheres in that range is where it shifts with the most 'noise'. i mean i have an open diff, but on some occasions the 1-2 shift will kick the car sideways a little, i love it and man does it surprise whomever i'm next to.the tach says about 6000 rpm and by screwing with it it seems like thats the best shift point. i cant shift manually because of hand controls, i dont have 3 hands and havent the ability to use my 3rd extremity to hold the wheel! ( although he does still work even though i cant feel it!) :rolleyes:
 
you talk about alot of higher shift points and i know you've got the cobra intake, but how many miles are on your shortblock and have you done anything to it? how long have you been taking it to the track and/or just driving it like you stole it? from what ive read and seen your pushing the limits of the motor continually.what is the stock rev limiter at and where are the stock shift points ? when i was trying to find mine ( by driving hard) it shifted around 5800 at WOT. its weird because even at part throttle with the 3.27 rear it will chirp tires ( remember ive got a new tranny with like a 400 over stock tc.) and all the way to stock shift at WOT it will bark the tires, but ive moved the shift points to 300 rpm over stock ( thats the other thing, on the sniper you can change everything, but it goes in increments over stock you cant put it at 6200 rpm or whatever) but when i move it higher it wont make any noise. it seems, at the torque peak or somewheres in that range is where it shifts with the most 'noise'. i mean i have an open diff, but on some occasions the 1-2 shift will kick the car sideways a little, i love it and man does it surprise whomever i'm next to.the tach says about 6000 rpm and by screwing with it it seems like thats the best shift point. i cant shift manually because of hand controls, i dont have 3 hands and havent the ability to use my 3rd extremity to hold the wheel! ( although he does still work even though i cant feel it!) :rolleyes:

The shortblock has nothing done to it. It now has 147K miles on it. I have been driving it in a spirited manner ever since I bought it and even more so after the mods. I have owned the car over 4 years now. It has been to the track only a handful of times. Twice in 2010, and twice in 2011. I started shifting at 6700 rpms last year. Previous to that, I was at about 6500.

From what I recall, the stock shift points are both under 6K rpms. I can't remember what the limiter was at.

The beehives are good to 7Krpms and DLF has been shifting at that rpm for a long time. If what he does works, I'm going to do the same. Obviously, tuning differences will change where that shift point needs to be, but for me, I got it as close to the limiter as possible at the track, sometimes bouncing it and sometimes not, and that's where it performed DRASTICALLY better. At this point, I'll do what it takes to go fast, and for me that was 6700 rpm shift points and too be honest, I think it will do even better at 7Krpms. It all depends on where the car accelerates the most when it comes to shift points. For me, anything 6500 and under was a waste of time.

Your results may vary considering you have a stock intake. I personally think the Cobra intake pulls well all the way to 7K rpms. Power certainly dies off before then, but there has to be an overlap where you are shifting so the car doesn't fall back too far into the next gear.

If you have a dyno graph, find out where your peak torque/hp is and post it up on here. That can determine where your shift points need to be.
 
I always use to just shift manually before I put the s/c on now I'm like afraid to

I am also. I'm not sure which it more limiting for mine, the bottom end or the valve springs. I use to leave the OD on and it never reved over 5,700 rpm's and I claimed 7 lbs boost. Now we run it with the OD off and at the end it is reving to 6,250 rpm's and it is now 8 lbs of boost. So 6,700 rpm's is probably 9 lbs of boost. I doubt the bottom end will take much of that ??
 

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