How often to change copper spark plugs

AbrahamLincoln

AbrahamLincoln

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I got 764's in my car they have about 10k on them. Car doesn't feel like it used to... I'm obviously going to change them out asap but how often do you guys with coppers change them out? Oh yea on a sidenote my cars pulling 21 psi at idle, that about right?
 
I frequent wot and they're 10 months old with about 12k I think I'm gonna swap in some new ones.
 
I do it every 6 months, roughly. 10K miles max. They are so cheap and get good performance so I always use copper and change them out often. Plus it gives me a reason to be in the garage. Always a good thing.
 
I just changed them out. I forgot to put dielectric grease on them last time. I may have put too much on there but the car seems to run ok. How much dielectric should you pu on there? I coate the end pretty good on the spark plug, and took a screw driver and slobbed it on there and got the inside of the spark plug wire boot pretty good. The directions said a thin amount on the back but i figured through the process of putting the rubber hose into get them in there and my spark plug socket would remove some off.
 
I was also going to do a compression test but my tester for a Sbc is won't fit into the chamber all the way. I also gapped them wider this time around to see if that made a difference. I'm not sure why geno suggests going less than stock but I don't think that made much of a difference at all either, i'm guessing you get more life out of them since they will open up over time.

The old plugs looked normal a bit whitish like the coating of the metal was getting tired. I'll post some pics later.

Stock fuel pressure is supposed to be 39 psi at wot correct? I may invest in adjustable FPR sooner than later to bump it up a bit, see if that does anything. Other than that I am going to clean the mafs, maybe i got it gunked up a bit.

Car seems to pull timing a bit when I manually shift. it runs ok I guess but at light throttle i can feel the legs kinda come out while gate shifting.

Another thing is since I have just my conical filter in the engine bay, seems to be losing power in the but-o-meter. ie, when I wot at a standstill I would spin all the way into 2nd pretty much, now with the cold air out car kinda falls on its face, its decent but not ripping em like it used to. I am going to put the cold air back in place as soon as I can find my damn airbox.

Theres my update if anyone cars :-)
 
cleaned the mafs just now, and went to a very reputable tuner who specializes in ford SCT, said the price for mark viii's vehicle family went down and hes going to do my car for the standard rate. So i'm going to do a lightning mafs (one for cold air) switch chip - one for my 150 shot, said he'll do it all on my 764 autolites... I asked about going colder plugs and he said it wouldn't make much of a difference with his software. 175 and another 100 for the n20 switch program. not bad! already got a blank sct from a buddy so im good to go.
 
car is REEEEEEEEEEEDICULOUS right now. I cleaned the hell out out of the MAFS and definetly got back tons of power I was losing. I could tell at slow driving that the legs were falling out from it. This is with the HOT AIR.

I could route it down into the fender, however you need a different MAFS as a wise driller once said. I could mount it in the fender and see if I can anymore power, but its crazy crazy right now.

My tuner said that I could mount it down in the fender but my filter would get very dirty from debrees and dirt he said. Which I can see between that and cleaning my air filter with the oil, right before the dyno it must have messed up my results. That plus the mafs being in the fender will throw off not sure exactly why.

driller could explain why the new mafs has to be calibrated for a CAI...

I also had some rubber excess from the oring between my adapter for the cone and the mafs housing, i got real nice with a long razer and got all the excess away. It wasn't bad but it might have helped and it didn't hurt to try aparently. It'll blow the tires 1-2 all day. I can also feel wayyy more timing than before, especially between shifts.

Dude told me to go lightning mafs? I wonder how that would compare to say that SCT one they sell at BOC or Geno's.

I scheduled for friday because I had no idea what the hell was going on with my car. I really love the tune, but I think I would like to have a switch chip program for my spray and some exact data, also a calibrated CAI. i am definetly also thinking supercharger! screw rims!
 
lol, ok i dont need a new mafs until i peg the stock one gotcha. But my tune has to be calibrated for the cold air. that a correct statement? Cmon back!
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
lol, ok i dont need a new mafs until i peg the stock one gotcha. But my tune has to be calibrated for the cold air. that a correct statement? Cmon back!
Click to expand...


That is what I've been telling you from day 1.

When you change ANYTHING infront of the maf sensor, it affects whats called the MAF transfer function.

YES a CAI in order to operate properly will need to be tuned "on the dyno with a wb02".

Who is this "reputable sct tuner" you speak of?
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
Dude told me to go lightning mafs? I wonder how that would compare to say that SCT one they sell at BOC or Geno's.!
Click to expand...

Like KK said, up until you actually have data that shows that you "pegged the stock meter" putting a larger meter on there is a waste of time, money and effort.

not only that.. the larger maf will decrease the resolution of your maf transfer function. Making the lower end of the scale "less accurate" due to the decreased resolution from the larger maf.

who cars how big your maf is.. if the car isn't "using up the stock maf".

With that said.... a Lightning Maf is a far better product than the C&L meter.
But, it's only "better" if you "need it".
 
My Vic can hit loads of .9xx I'm almost using up my entire MAF.... but I'm not going to swap anything even though I have an 80mm sitting in my garage because I don't have the tools to properly set it up.
 
Purchased sct 6600 with the switch and cable. Genos chip is awesome I doubt they will make more hp on the na end, but I want something that's switchable and optimized for the nitrous.

Goal is 400 whp on spray 250-260 with out
 
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