How long will it take to change out the rear pumpkin?

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bobotech

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I just got my trac-loc with 4.10s in the mail yesterday and I am anxious to get it installed.

My buddy and I would be doing it in his garage with no lift but we have plenty of air tools.

How long does it normally take? And does the exhaust need to come down again?

What is this "one wheel" method I saw mentioned in a post?

And what fluid should I be putting in there to top it off?

And lastly, my pumpkin is still in the box but I see these plastic bushing looking things by the axle seals, what are those and should I replace them as well as the seals?
 
XLRVIII said:
1.5 hours to 1.5 days depending on skill level
Click to expand...

LOL Well my buddy and I are ex-mechanics, we used to do it for a living 15-20 years ago.

Took me about 1/2 hour to swap out my front strut assembly and usually takes about 45 minutes to swap out front half-shafts on fwd cars.

So it is a rather easy job then?
 
bobotech said:
usually takes about 45 minutes to swap out front half-shafts on fwd cars.

So it is a rather easy job then?
Click to expand...

if your familiar with FWD, your gonna be right at home working on an IRS
lol
 
*COUGH*

If Tom would bring his junk up here, we'll do his and report back to you on the time it takes, or you could watc via web cam, but I won't be responsible for the sick unadulteraged joke or inuendo's that spew from my mouth (shop Humor).





Dr. SVO phd
 
I'll be doing that this weekend also, I'm grabbing the differential from LaserSVTs 97, which is the 3/27 inplace of my 93s base model 3/08s
 
Temporary Tommy, I'm putting 3/73 in my pumpkin, I need something to roll on for a couple days, my car is my daily driver
 
Why wouldn't you just build the pumpkin from Lasers car and install it once. Seems to be a whole lot of work for a minimal gear change. 308 to 327 not anything to write home about.
 
Because Tommy wants lasers rear end I think, and my car can't be down during the week, I've only got Sunday To mess with it and I can have it swapped in 30 minutes. That gives me the rest of the week to mess with setting the gears on the bench whe I'm at my shop, and I'm sure he doesn't want me to just use them and give him my 3/08s

so basically I'm borrowing the rear until I rebuild mine
 
You need a grinder what a cut off wheel.... here is how I did it on kirk's 97... took about 2 hours.

Drop exhaust.
Take off drivers side tire
Take off brake caliper and bracket as one part, slide off the rotor.
Undo the front knuckle spindle bolt, cut off half the head of the bolt
Undo all the knuckle bolt and slide the knuckle and cv out as one unit.
Pop the driver cv out of the diff, not all the way but just unclip
Take off the abs sensors
Undo the driveshaft
Undo the diff mounts and slide it out.

Reverse to reinstall.
 
kustomizingkid said:
You need a grinder what a cut off wheel.... here is how I did it on kirk's 97... took about 2 hours.

Drop exhaust.
Take off drivers side tire
Take off brake caliper and bracket as one part, slide off the rotor.
Undo the front knuckle spindle bolt, cut off half the head of the bolt
Undo all the knuckle bolt and slide the knuckle and cv out as one unit.
Pop the driver cv out of the diff, not all the way but just unclip
Take off the abs sensors
Undo the driveshaft
Undo the diff mounts and slide it out.

Reverse to reinstall.
Click to expand...
:confused:Why the heck do you need to cut off half the head of the bolt?
 
I did mine. I did hub bearings, bushings, swaybar links, rear cover brace, torsion brace, stainless lines, rotors, and breaks. took the better part of a full day or so. If your doing the pumpkin you might want to take a look a the knuckle bushings and do the upgrade to the ones DLF sells or poly, otherwise just follow KK's instructions.
 
kustomizingkid said:
You will see exactly why when you start doing it, the bolt hits the CV shaft...

Otherwise you will have to undo the LCA at the kframe.... just trust me.
Click to expand...

Or, you can remove the nut retaining the half-shaft and push the half-shaft in to get clearance to remove the forward LCA to knuckle torx bolt.

From the factory service manual:

KnuckleInstallation.jpg
 
DLF said:
Or, you can remove the nut retaining the half-shaft and push the half-shaft in to get clearance to remove the forward LCA to knuckle torx bolt.
Click to expand...

Until you find the nut to be rusted on.
Then you have a hassle.
Cutting the bolt hurts nothing.
 
It's just easier with 2 people to wiggle that LCA forward bolt out
 
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