I usually just went with the one bucket method, sheepskin wash mitt and used a dryblade and some towels to clean my car. I'm thinking about buying a foam lance, and I've recently stepped it up to the two bucket method. Just curious to see how the rest of you make them shine.
How do YOU wash your car?
- Thread starter KD00LS
- Start date
eastcoastLS
Dedicated LVC Member
these products and water. use the spray-on wax every other time or so and usually buy a different brand every time. prolong use of the spray on wax seems to actually make a difference
The California Water blade has been the best change I've made in years. Dries the car FAST, and eliminates 90% of the swirls/scratches I used to get when just drying with the Absorber. still use the absorbrer, but just for the cracks/crevices the blade doesnt get.
Gold class is supposed to be one of the best shampoos out there... and it foams up well for the foam gun I might get. Here's a link...
http://www.autogeek.net/foam-gun.html
http://www.autogeek.net/foam-gun.html
chriswells78
Well-Known LVC Member
bucket, what ever car wash solution is cheap, city water, a car wash mitt and a good old sheep skin shamoi.
Polish with Liquid Glass
Detail with Back to Black, Rain X and Tire wet.
Once a year, Usually the first time, I use good old dawn to wash it to cut the winter crud, old polish and other oils and what not off of it, then polish immediately afterwards.
Polish with Liquid Glass
Detail with Back to Black, Rain X and Tire wet.
Once a year, Usually the first time, I use good old dawn to wash it to cut the winter crud, old polish and other oils and what not off of it, then polish immediately afterwards.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
I do the one bucket wash, but I rinse the car thoroughly beforehand. If its really dirty (mud, gravel dust, salt, bird crap) I rinse the mit between panels to keep the bucket water cleaner.
Dry it down with the California Water Blade (best detailing invention EVER IMO), then spot dry with a shammy. I wax with Meguiars Gold Class, which is the best wax ive ever used. I have used many waxes at work (im a detailer) and Gold Class is by far the best. Eagle One Nano-wax, and even Meguiars NXT dont hold a candle to it.
If its too hot out I use Presta brand Fast-Wax. Middle of summer, 105 degees out, direct sunlight, on a black car, and it wipes right off. NO streaks. It doesnt last long, but its VERY easy to use.
I wipe my interior with Granitize Mink Oil. Its easy, it protects, it leaves a fresh scent in the car (not like that stank @$$ armor-all) it doesnt make the dash/panels glare in the sun, and it leaves the leather soft as butter.
Dry it down with the California Water Blade (best detailing invention EVER IMO), then spot dry with a shammy. I wax with Meguiars Gold Class, which is the best wax ive ever used. I have used many waxes at work (im a detailer) and Gold Class is by far the best. Eagle One Nano-wax, and even Meguiars NXT dont hold a candle to it.
If its too hot out I use Presta brand Fast-Wax. Middle of summer, 105 degees out, direct sunlight, on a black car, and it wipes right off. NO streaks. It doesnt last long, but its VERY easy to use.
I wipe my interior with Granitize Mink Oil. Its easy, it protects, it leaves a fresh scent in the car (not like that stank @$$ armor-all) it doesnt make the dash/panels glare in the sun, and it leaves the leather soft as butter.
chriswells78
Well-Known LVC Member
Does the mink oil make the the leather slippery? It drives me crazy when I'm driving and I hit the brakes the first time, you damn near slide into the pedals.
nickandersonLS01
Dedicated LVC Member
How is that Liquid Glass? I saw the commercial for it but I like to hear hands-on experience. I currently use Zymol which was recommended to me by my cousin, I'd recommend it to anyone, it's very nice to get rid of those swirls.
ToddG
Dedicated LVC Member
For wash, I use Meguiar's NXT car wash, one bucket with a grit guard (www.gritguard.com), and a soft brush. I also use a 2-inch paintbrush to get into hard-to-reach areas. I used to use mitts, but over the years I've found that a soft brush does a better job of cleaning cracks and crevices. The brushes have frayed tips and are quite soft, so they do not leave scratches.
Wheels and tires get tire cleaner (Westley's Bleche-Wite), followed by wheel cleaner (currently Meguiar's All-Wheel cleaner) with a soft brush. Interior gets a good vacuuming and a wipedown with Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and a microfiber towel. The Interior Detailer is great for polishing the wood trim and my LCD display. It does a great job of removing fingerprints and brightening interior chrome. Highly recommended.
Wheels and tires get tire cleaner (Westley's Bleche-Wite), followed by wheel cleaner (currently Meguiar's All-Wheel cleaner) with a soft brush. Interior gets a good vacuuming and a wipedown with Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and a microfiber towel. The Interior Detailer is great for polishing the wood trim and my LCD display. It does a great job of removing fingerprints and brightening interior chrome. Highly recommended.
DarkMansLSEV8
Well-Known LVC Member
Well right now for us Floridians its kinda tuff to wash our cars. They've passed a law that you can only wash your cars either on sunday mornings before 8:00 or on wednsdays, because Lake Okeechobees water level is the lowest that its ever been. On normal circumstances, id grab my bucket a sponge, some car wash with wax from discount auto parts and my shamie, oh and some tire wet, LOL, but for now its the local car wash, or the car wash at the Mobil gas station by my house.
Eliot_Ness_Ls
Dedicated LVC Member
I got a good self wash in my area with some hot water. I use lots of quarters, rinse well before hand, use more quarters, high pressure soap, more quaters, than the final hot rinse. The hot rinse helps dry it faster and gets rid of water spots on the wheel pretty good. I dont have a house so I cant just wash it in my driveway, i either wax or use a spray detail affterwards so any water spots arent a issue for me along with the hot water.
This woks realy good and you dont risk a sponge scratching the paint with any left over debris after the first rinse. It just takes alot of quarters.
This woks realy good and you dont risk a sponge scratching the paint with any left over debris after the first rinse. It just takes alot of quarters.
tyler1313
Active LVC Member
1. Mothers Pre Wax Cleaner
2. McGuires Deep Crystal Polish
3. Mothers Reflection Wax
The reflections wax is really expensive though. It is around $17 for a 16 oz. You could use any other wax but that one is my favorite.
2. McGuires Deep Crystal Polish
3. Mothers Reflection Wax
The reflections wax is really expensive though. It is around $17 for a 16 oz. You could use any other wax but that one is my favorite.
beechcraft11
Active LVC Member
Waterway; Represent!
Eliot_Ness_Ls
Dedicated LVC Member
TheBigL'sLS
LVC Member
Someone asked me a question once, so I had a summary of my routine in my sent messages. Here it is:
Step 1: Hand wash
I used "Flynn's Carnauba Wash," but I don't think it is available to the public. Meguiars Gold Class also works very well and is very available. I always use a microfiber mit to wash cars. Hand dry to avoid spots ("the Absorber" works very well for drying and is available at most stores). Also, remove any bugs or tar with a bug sponge and bug/tar remover prior to washing.
Step 2: Clay Bar
Meguiars and Mothers have clay bar kits in Autozone, Auto Advantage, etc. They are essentially the same thing: Clay bar, Lube (usually instant detailer), and a sample of wax. Once the car is dry, clay it. Here is a great article explaining this step: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html The clay lube can just be polished with a microfiber towel in a circular motion. This alone will have your car looking good but ALWAYS FOLLOW WITH A WAX (Step 4).
Step 3: Polish
I usually use an orbital buffer, but the battery died halfway through. I use "Meguiar's Color X." It is a great product and is a polish/wax blend. You basically apply it, let it dry, and buff it off. An orbital buffer is definitely worth the money ($30 or less at Home Depot). Don't use a rotary buffer. It can be done by hand, but takes longer and usually results in swirl marks. With the orbital buffer, use one bonnet for application and one for buffing (you'll need a total of 4 (2 polish, and 2 wax)). The buffer should come with directions.
Step 4: Wax
You have many, many choices when it comes to wax: Liquid, paste, and even spray. Because Meguiar's Color X Polish has wax in it, you would be safe using a spray wax. They work well, but don't last as long. Try Eagle One Nanowax-it's incredible. On my car, I used a private detailing brand called "Majestic Cherry Wet Wax." My buffer had died by this point, so I did it by hand. If I were you, I would use the Nanowax spray-on. Very easy and does not require much time. For a non-spray wax, see this article http://www.eagleone.com/pages/carcar...step.asp?sid=5
Step 5: Gloss
Once again, I used a private detailing brand. This step is optional. You can use any "Quick Detailer" spray (i.e. Eagle One "Wipe and Shine"). Always use microfiber towels!
And of course there's tire wet, metal polish, etc.
As for the inside, I use a warm water extractor (the absolute BEST way to clean carpet or upholstery). Meguiar's Gold Class leather wipes are excelent for the leather, and Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer works on basically everything else.
Hope this helps-
If you have any questions, pm me.
Step 1: Hand wash
I used "Flynn's Carnauba Wash," but I don't think it is available to the public. Meguiars Gold Class also works very well and is very available. I always use a microfiber mit to wash cars. Hand dry to avoid spots ("the Absorber" works very well for drying and is available at most stores). Also, remove any bugs or tar with a bug sponge and bug/tar remover prior to washing.
Step 2: Clay Bar
Meguiars and Mothers have clay bar kits in Autozone, Auto Advantage, etc. They are essentially the same thing: Clay bar, Lube (usually instant detailer), and a sample of wax. Once the car is dry, clay it. Here is a great article explaining this step: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html The clay lube can just be polished with a microfiber towel in a circular motion. This alone will have your car looking good but ALWAYS FOLLOW WITH A WAX (Step 4).
Step 3: Polish
I usually use an orbital buffer, but the battery died halfway through. I use "Meguiar's Color X." It is a great product and is a polish/wax blend. You basically apply it, let it dry, and buff it off. An orbital buffer is definitely worth the money ($30 or less at Home Depot). Don't use a rotary buffer. It can be done by hand, but takes longer and usually results in swirl marks. With the orbital buffer, use one bonnet for application and one for buffing (you'll need a total of 4 (2 polish, and 2 wax)). The buffer should come with directions.
Step 4: Wax
You have many, many choices when it comes to wax: Liquid, paste, and even spray. Because Meguiar's Color X Polish has wax in it, you would be safe using a spray wax. They work well, but don't last as long. Try Eagle One Nanowax-it's incredible. On my car, I used a private detailing brand called "Majestic Cherry Wet Wax." My buffer had died by this point, so I did it by hand. If I were you, I would use the Nanowax spray-on. Very easy and does not require much time. For a non-spray wax, see this article http://www.eagleone.com/pages/carcar...step.asp?sid=5
Step 5: Gloss
Once again, I used a private detailing brand. This step is optional. You can use any "Quick Detailer" spray (i.e. Eagle One "Wipe and Shine"). Always use microfiber towels!
And of course there's tire wet, metal polish, etc.
As for the inside, I use a warm water extractor (the absolute BEST way to clean carpet or upholstery). Meguiar's Gold Class leather wipes are excelent for the leather, and Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer works on basically everything else.
Hope this helps-
If you have any questions, pm me.
BigL, seems like you got a nice setup that car really shines. Do the orbital buffers just oscellate rather than turn?
I also have the California Water Blade and I definately recommend it, it cuts the drying time down and the amount of chamois/towels/etc. you use down.
Todd, I heard of that gritguard, a lot of the guys with Zymol buckets are using them, does it work well?
I've also heard to stay away from Turtle Ice Wax or Quick detailer, it leaves a good shine but supposedly the silicone in it can turn clear coat yellow over time.
I also have the California Water Blade and I definately recommend it, it cuts the drying time down and the amount of chamois/towels/etc. you use down.
Todd, I heard of that gritguard, a lot of the guys with Zymol buckets are using them, does it work well?
I've also heard to stay away from Turtle Ice Wax or Quick detailer, it leaves a good shine but supposedly the silicone in it can turn clear coat yellow over time.
Eliot_Ness_Ls
Dedicated LVC Member
I have heard of turtle wax Ice doing so but I have been useing it for a very long time and I never had this happen, now the Turtle Wax Ice Clay bar that stuff sucks.
ToddG
Dedicated LVC Member
Honestly, its hard to say. I think if your car is really dirty and you end up with a lot of dirt in your water, it does help by not swirling up the big dirt particles, at least at the bottom of the bucket. But if your car is fairly clean to begin with (e.g., only dusty or with normal road grime after a week or so), I can't see it doing much good.
I only got the grit guard. The site sells buckets too, but they're insanely expensive. The guard fits a $5 paint bucket that you can get at Home Depot.
ToddG
Dedicated LVC Member
Sorry, who are you asking? I've not used that device.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
Nope. Leather is a bit slick as it is, which is why I try to stay away from greasy protectants or dressings. I like my leather to feel CLEAN, not like the bottom of a McDonalds bag. The mink oil does leave a small amount of residue after it dries, it soaks into the leather after a day or so, but it doesn't make it feel greasy or anything. It also helps keep the leather from "talking" when you sit down. You know that annoying sound that leather makes sometimes when you move around on it? (sounds like someone rippin @$$) This stuff will help keep the leather soft, so it doesn't make noise.
ToddG
Dedicated LVC Member
Looks like an unnecessary uni-takser gizmo. I'll stick to a soft brush and bucket, thanks.
chriswells78
Well-Known LVC Member
My dad has been using it for years, like any good son, I tried 50,000 other products before I used what he used
It works great. I have not yet waxed the LS this year so the last time I did it was like late October, early November. Even with a crappy snow/salt filled Ohio winter, It still beads water like I did it yesterday.
nickandersonLS01
Dedicated LVC Member
Nice, I'll probably use that. Like a good son the first time I waxed the LS I used my dads expensive IBIZ stuff he uses on the beamer. When my Zymol runs out I'm definately going to try that, and claybar for that matter.