how are the door and quarter moulding attached?

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Bangster

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1997 Mark VIII still has a bashed in door.

Locally only one place has a door, they don't know, and they apparently cannot visually inspect it, if it is an LSC or base. From the 50 times I have talked to them, it seems like it is a base.

How is the door moulding attached? Is it adhesive/double sided tape and/or bolted? How about the quarter trim?

If it is some sort of adhesive, can it be removed intact with any tricks like fishing line?

This is what the one on my car looks like, the other driver just kept going and it wore it pretty good:
15332676427_afd299e4b6_b.jpg
20141012_134514 by dabangsta, on Flickr

The normal places the body shops go to for used or reconditioned parts don't have it, they are not comfortable using this place (some just haven't used them, others have bad experiences).

I can probably find the moulding on a car in Phoenix, and that is something I could transport. I think I asked, but I really don't think a door is going to fit in the trunk, and I was luck to not wreck my interior bringing back the header panels and bumper cover and headlights from last accident.

The quarter panel trim isn't great either, I don't think it is salvagable for a bodyshop to call it good (at some point I would probably call it good enough if doing the work myself):
15519224895_1deb12991b_b.jpg
20141012_134243 by dabangsta, on Flickr

15332162670_d9ae6c5a00_b.jpg
20141012_130001 by dabangsta, on Flickr
 
Also...what changes would be needed to use a Gen 1 door? Does the interior panel fit and interior door handle, or are there any small/medium/difficult modifications needed? It doesn't solve the trim issue but I think I found a 96.
 
Trim is a PITA to remove, depending on conditions it been in I have to assume.

The 96 LSC parts car I bought, I was able to slowly cut and pry GENTLY the molding off. Occasionally cutting some more as I pried. Most of the tape came off on the moulding still and I was able (or should I say my wife was volunteers to) pick all the tape off the backing with a razor and her nails.

My 93, when I removed the trim before it went in for paint, I tried the same approach and it literally came off in chunks, pieces and slivers. It was horrible. I ended up leaving all the adhesive material on the car and let the paint guy deal with it after trying paint thinner, paint stripper, razors, etc without much success.

I'm wondering if the 96 (maybe even others) used double sided tape and the 93 was glued or something.
 
Okay, looking at the ones for sale on eBay looks like tape and bolted on.

No one will touch fixing the car (just like last time). The insurance just wants it over with, so they are sending a check, their estimate (2050 bucks), and if it goes over to call them, and also call them to get a rental.

Looks like I am going to be getting my own parts again. I have spent way too much time on this, with their driver at fault, still probably have missed a day of work total just calling around and going to shops. Racebronco2 has the LSC door and quarter trim, looks to be in good shape, so depending on the price of a door, the 85 bucks for the trim fits the budget. They won't go "used" for the trim but will for the door.

This damage seems to be the part that worries me the most, the metal is split and a chunk is missing.
15332365469_2c30de931e_h.jpg
20141012_134506 by dabangsta, on Flickr
 
The correct use of a heat gun and a putty knife will aid in removal. All 95-98 LSC had this trim and it's 100% interchangeable between gens. I'd pay $85 to have them at my door allready removed from a car. There is a 3M addhesive that people have used to re-attach the trim but I dont have that info at the moment.
 
From looking at my recently acquired 97 LSC moldings, they are held on by double-sided tape and lined up by the pins on the back side of the molding.

Removing the old moldings requires a heat gun, putty knife, and patience. Clean-up is best served by a plastic scraper and some MEK or acetone (be careful as these will soften your original factory paint).
 
Cool, thanks for all the information.

The junk yard won't take pictures of the door, but I had them "grade it" and it has a small parking lot ding, no rust, and is an LSC, so I have to talk a body shop into getting it from them. The car also has the quarter trim, but I am not sure they can remove it intact and usable. I might still get that from Racebronco2 from eBay.

The insurance company no longer wants to deal with it. They cut me a check for their estimate. IF it goes over, I can contact them and they can pay out more, and will spring for a rental. I have put way too much of my own time into this, but I knew going in that no one would take it on.
 
That is the problem with insuring older (non-classic) cars; the insurance company would rather total it out and haul it away versus actually fixing it.
We had a 77 Chrysler Cordoba in 93. It was rough, but a dang good driving car. A guy came across the center line one night and hit me head-on drivers side. It drove his tire back against the rear of his fenderwell and only splintered my header panel (much like our MK VIIIs).....all of my lights even still worked. Insurance walked up and was going to total it. Dad said heck no you don't, it still drives fine. They cut him a check for $500 and wished him the best.

As for the metal door itself, it can be fixed but would be quicker to remove/replace. Then you could fix that door for a spare!
 
That's awesome about the Cordoba. My first car was a 1977 Chrysler Cordoba with the 400 BB engine. That thing was a TANK. Someone slammed their brakes in front of us one day for no reason and we rear ended them. We smashed their whole rear in and didn't damage a single thing on the front of my car. Was a nice car to drive for sure.
 
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