Hmm.. ok well.....

[Drac]

Followup to my previous thread about my 2006 running hot.

Everything has been replaced with OEM Ford components listed below:

-Degas and cap
-Radiator
-Water pump
-coolant pipes to heads and to the block
-gaskets for pipes mentioned above
-all hoses, rubber and plastic that carry coolant
-thermostat and housing/cap
-New yellow coolant
-Purged air out of the system per the LVC guide multiple times... to a tee

Spent a pretty ridiculous amount of money on this and I'm ready to just call it quits. What else could it be? Head gasket? cracked head?

Car seems to run fine and always pulls hard and never has any other issues. In stop and go traffic, the coolant hangs around 226-236+.... but by the time it hits 230 I crank the heater and it brings it down. Never any temps above 220 on the freeway, even with A/C on. No oil in the coolant or vice versa. no engine shutter either from what I can tell.

This is my DD so I am ripping my hair out.

 

[joegr]

How about the engine fan? Are you certain that it is running correctly? It should be very loud when the engine is going over 220F.
When you re-bleed it after having trouble (let it cool completely first), do you get more air out?
With the engine cold, start it and go to 3000 RPM for about one minute. Turn it off and loosen the degas cap. Do you hear pressure being released? If so, bad.
With the engine hot, throw a towel over the degas cap and use gloves to loosen it. Do you hear pressure being released? If no, bad.

 

[02LincLS]

I didn't read your other posts but a quick coolant system pressure check might be in order. Sometimes you can even hear where the leak is because the engine isn't drowning it out. Test the new cap too- sometimes the cap just doesn't seal good on the degas tank so watch for that too.

 

[G-RELL]

is your coolant level changing/ dropping?

 

[hite337]

Here's a question.....did you use a Dorman degas bottle (or any other brand) or a Motorcraft degas bottle? Dorman and off brand bottles are usually junk and dont last long if they dont fail immediately. If you did use a Motorcraft bottle, did it come with a cap or did you buy a random cap. Different bottles have different threads. A Dorman degas bottle will not work with a Motorcraft cap and vice versa.


Edit....i see you said you used OEM parts. If you paid less than $150ish for your degas bottle then its not a Motorcraft bottle.

 

[Drac]

Hey guys and thanks for the responses!

Joegr, the fan is working, but it doesn't hit high speed until 230* F. before that, it is on, but now very high. it sounds like it is about to take off when the temp hits 230*... but the funny thing is the fan doesn't actually help cool anything :/ I'll try what you suggested with the degas cap. anytime I try to purge more air out of the air bleed by the degas, all I get is coolant and no air.

G-RELL, the coolant level WAS dropping a small amount when I was using the Dorman tank, but the Dorman tank was leaking a little bit, so I chalked it up to that. The OEM Ford tank I have been using hasn't leaked or hissed at all so far.

hite337, yeah I was using a Dorman, and it was bad. hissing and leaking behind the tire on the driver's side. I bought a Motorcraft one for $180, and so far it has been good.

 

[joegr]

... it sounds like it is about to take off when the temp hits 230*... but the funny thing is the fan doesn't actually help cool anything ...

This indicates that coolant isn't flowing through the radiator. This could be due to blocked flow due to air pockets (caused by leaks), a bad water pump (broken impeller), or a bad or incorrectly assembled thermostat. One easy thing to try is to remove the thermostat and see if temps come way down (and stay that way). If so, you'll know to get a new thermostat and assemble it carefully. Could you take a picture of the housing? I'd like to verify that it really is OEM, since I've heard of symptoms like yours with the aftermarket one.

 

[Telco]

I see you replaced the radiator, but did you clean out the AC condenser while it was out? If it's clogged air can't reach the radiator and it won't want to cool. To clean, direct a water hose from behind through the radiator. A hose sprayer works well for this but watch the pressure, the radiator fins can be bent by a nozzled hose at full strength. Also, inspect the fins to see if they are bent, if so they sell a metal comb that can straighten out the fins.