Hesitation when cold

[Bluesman73]

:I I think Mr. Wilson should take an automotive course at a vo-tech this summer. Mr.Wilson--you should really consider this. All of the questions you ask involve systematic approaches to problems most people don't think about. You keep mentioning these codes: Do you know what these codes really mean? Every mechanical device is prone to failure eventually. This is how the universe operates. Because of this, diagnosing any internal combustion engine involves the same process. A computerized system does potentially contain more problems and headaches, but the same, systematic approach still qualifies. Start with the basics and move on. Don't just start replacing things because you interpreted a code said something was bad. If you don't take a course, at least go to the library, or Barnes and Noble, or someother place and check out a book about modern electronic control systems found in automotive systems.

Just a little FYI...my car had the same problem you are experiencing, but it basically had been sitting for 3 years. I changed the spark plugs, wires, and ran a lot of B-12 in the fuel system. It cured my hesitation when at proper operating temperature and the miss went completely away. While you're at it, replace your fuel filter as well.

 

[MrWilson]

Do list all of your "new" codes individually. Sounds like you have a low voltage issue that stems from a low battery or Alternator. If I were you, I would begin a methodical search of every ground connection on the car. Do a votlage drop check at every ground tap to see if the issue lies in that.
Its not a bad idea to look at the cables that come off of the battery to see if they are in good shape. More than a cursory "visual" check, mind you. Get in there and move the cables around, looking for corrosion, splits in insulation or anything that feels or sounds funky.
After you have posted all of your numbers as accurately as possible, that should help the rest of us w/ potential suggestions.

already done all that. perhaps not EVERY single ground, but the main ones that would have the most effect on those particular systems. not only me, but other mechanics too.

:I I think Mr. Wilson should take an automotive course at a vo-tech this summer. Mr.Wilson--you should really consider this. All of the questions you ask involve systematic approaches to problems most people don't think about. You keep mentioning these codes: Do you know what these codes really mean? Every mechanical device is prone to failure eventually. This is how the universe operates. Because of this, diagnosing any internal combustion engine involves the same process. A computerized system does potentially contain more problems and headaches, but the same, systematic approach still qualifies. Start with the basics and move on. Don't just start replacing things because you interpreted a code said something was bad. If you don't take a course, at least go to the library, or Barnes and Noble, or someother place and check out a book about modern electronic control systems found in automotive systems.

Just a little FYI...my car had the same problem you are experiencing, but it basically had been sitting for 3 years. I changed the spark plugs, wires, and ran a lot of B-12 in the fuel system. It cured my hesitation when at proper operating temperature and the miss went completely away. While you're at it, replace your fuel filter as well.

dont think im some 10 year old tinkering with daddys car, iv done everything i and many other people can possibly think of, short of changing out the maf/egr. I would be willing to put my wrench against many a man(or woman) out there. Now, im not saying im the best, but im no newb either. the only reasons i havent changed out the egr/maf is because it just doesnt make sense that they (and the tps, which has now magicaly stopped throwing) failed at the same exact time.

 

[Bluesman73]

So have you done your votage tests? Have you checked the ohm signals and votage signals from your MAF and TPS using an accurate DVOM? Have you checked for drains, shorts, corrosion, bad solder joints, bad pins, internally corroded wires? Have you checked your reference voltage from your computer to these components? Have you ohmed all of your ground wires or all of the wires coming from the plug to the computer to the components?

I wasn't impying earlier you were a 10 year old tinkering with daddy's car. Knowledge is an effective tool and weapon against mechanical and electrical demonds. My suggestion for you to take a class would hone your skills and enable your efforts to repair your car more effective.