Help with trunk release electrical problem

[Dukester]

2002 LS V8 sport:
Switch on dash won't activate trunk release solenoid, was working a few weeks ago as that's the last time I can remember using the dash switch to open the trunk.

I can still open the trunk using the remote, so I know the solenoid itself is ok and the latch isn't jammed or anything.

Pulled down the cover and check the switch itself with my meter and the switch is working, get good continuity when its pressed in. Then I checked the wiring to the switch and neither of the wires has any power to it.

To compare, the fuel door release is on the same plug and has 12V on the outer of the two wires.

Anybody have a wiring diagram they can look at and help me out here in terms of where to look next? Or experience with the trunk release wiring?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[craigh]

I believe some LS's had a trunk valet lockout switch in the glovebox. If you have one maybe it was switched or is the cause of the problem.

Just a thought.

 

[Dukester]

I didn't find anything about that in the owner's manual, there is a valet key, but I didn't see anything on a switch.

I'm hoping somebody will come through with a wiring diagram so I can at least figure out where the wiring runs.

 

[gcwimmer]

See if the valet switch in the glove box has been inadvertently switched turning off the trunk release on the dash. The valet key doesn't work on the trunk lock or the glove box.

 

[joegr]

See if the valet switch in the glove box has been inadvertently switched turning off the trunk release on the dash. The valet key doesn't work on the trunk lock or the glove box.

My understanding is that the 2002, like the gen II, has no valet switch in the glove box. Instead, the trunk button itself has a key slot and can be locked with the key. It does sound like the OP has an electrical problem. Unfortunately, I don't have any gen I wiring diagrams.

 

[gcwimmer]

Just check the 2002 owners manual and you are right, no valet switch in the glove box, key way in the dash switch. Try you master key in the dash switch.

 

[Dukester]

Ok I feel kind of dumb.

First off, despite there being no mention of a valet switch in the glove box in the owners manual I went and actually physically looked and there is one. As I'm always in the driver's seat, I never actually noticed it before as it's not very visible from the driver's seat. So feeling kind of dumb and I push the valet button and try the trunk with no luck.

So I push the button again and now the trunk works. So it seems like the switch was in the right position already. So maybe I've got a failing valet button? Seems unlikely for a switch that probably hasn't been pushed a dozen times in it's life, but you never know. I'll pull the switch later and see if I can't open it up and check the contacts. Or maybe just replace it, but knowing Lincoln, the switch will probably be $100.

Thanks for the help guys,
Mike

 

[1LoudLS]

the software i have say that the trunk release is negative trigger, so there wont be any 12 at the switch, the trigger wire that runs to the REM should be white, the other wire should have ground all the time.

i would try grounding out the white wire @ the switch, if this opens the trunk then either the switch is bad or the other wire doesn't have ground, if this doesn't work then there is either a problem with the wiring that runs to the REM or a problem with the REM itself

 

[Dukester]

It all seems to work fine now, only thing I really ended up doing was basically cycling the valet switch. So I'll have to wait until it acts up again to do any additional troubleshooting.

 

[joegr]

It all seems to work fine now, only thing I really ended up doing was basically cycling the valet switch. So I'll have to wait until it acts up again to do any additional troubleshooting.

Actually, the switch contacts can oxidize and cause problems if the switch is not cycled often enough. This is usually only a problem when switching low currents with a switch that was designed for higher current loads.

What's the build date on your LS? It must be an early 2002 model, more like a 2001.5 model. I've ended up with a few cars like that before. They were a big pain because you couldn't tell in advance if you need the part for your model year or the prior/post year part.

 

[gcwimmer]

Make sure there is nothing sliding around in the glove box that might hit the switch.