Help! Can't find problem of not running

2000sportv8

2000sportv8

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Hi i own a 2000 Ls Sport V8. Right around 150xxx miles. A week ago i was driving down the highway 60mph and it started running really rough. Brake paddle was stiff and pulled over. It didn't die. Opened hood and it was hardly running with a loud knocking sound from top of motor towards the front end. I shut it off and called for a ride. I started it up again a few minutes later with the results. I had it towed home. Now it won't start at all. It's cranks and tries to start but doesn't make it to a full running condition. Unfortunately i ran the battery dead and had to unhook to charge so now i cant pull codes from pcm. I've tried unhooking maf but no change. Today i got under her and check connections to wire's and crank sensor. I wiggled key in ignition. I also tried turning it off and on multiple times to try and prime the fuel. I heard the pump the first few times and after a bit i dont. I plan to pull the back seat to make sure. But after all i did today it did finally start for a split second and sounded like crap before dieing. I couldn't find any posts close enough to my symptoms so I'm on here asking for help and advice. I greatly appreciate any help i can get. I.plan ok keeping her till she falls completely apart from old age lol. I've also replaced all cops and the plugs. After this started.
 
2000sportv8 said:
Hi i own a 2000 Ls Sport V8. Right around 150xxx miles. A week ago i was driving down the highway 60mph and it started running really rough. Brake paddle was stiff and pulled over. It didn't die. Opened hood and it was hardly running with a loud knocking sound from top of motor towards the front end. I shut it off and called for a ride. I started it up again a few minutes later with the results. I had it towed home. Now it won't start at all. It's cranks and tries to start but doesn't make it to a full running condition. Unfortunately i ran the battery dead and had to unhook to charge so now i cant pull codes from pcm. I've tried unhooking maf but no change. Today i got under her and check connections to wire's and crank sensor. I wiggled key in ignition. I also tried turning it off and on multiple times to try and prime the fuel. I heard the pump the first few times and after a bit i dont. I plan to pull the back seat to make sure. But after all i did today it did finally start for a split second and sounded like crap before dieing. I couldn't find any posts close enough to my symptoms so I'm on here asking for help and advice. I greatly appreciate any help i can get. I.plan ok keeping her till she falls completely apart from old age lol. I've also replaced all cops and the plugs. After this started.
Click to expand...
Start with the fuel pump and go from there ...remember this car needs a fully charged and operational battery for everything to work properly
 
Sounds like the classic symptoms of a failed timing chain tensioner and jumped time on one of the exhaust cams.
Do a compression test or pull the valve covers to rule this in or out.
 
I bought the about a year ago from a friend because they were told it needed a motor. It ended up being bad tensioners. So.i replaced them. I did pull the valve covers to be sure and it's still in time. I should have mentioned this before. Today i did get it to start by turning the key off and on multiple times. It ran for about 30 seconds at low rpm. Around 500. I pulled the back seat and the pump.is coming on for about 1 or 2 seconds each time i turned the key. I also did not hear the knocking anymore.
 
20191116_170532.jpg
 
2000sportv8 said:
... It ran for about 30 seconds at low rpm. Around 500. ...
Click to expand...

You could disconnect the MAF and see if it would run longer. How does it respond to opening the throttle a bit? My next thought would be to check fuel pressure.
 
No response at all when i try to push the pedal. I did try the disconnecting the Maf and it did not change anything. The fuel filter was replaced as well when the timing chain tensioners were done. I'm actually going to go get a fuel pressure gauge when the better half is ready. I figure I'm obviously getting spark and some kind of fuel. So maybe a weak fuel pump? Somebody has obviously changed it before. The rubber plugs over top of it was beaten up some.
 
2000sportv8 said:
No response at all when i try to push the pedal. I did try the disconnecting the Maf and it did not change anything. The fuel filter was replaced as well when the timing chain tensioners were done. I'm actually going to go get a fuel pressure gauge when the better half is ready. I figure I'm obviously getting spark and some kind of fuel. So maybe a weak fuel pump? Somebody has obviously changed it before. The rubber plugs over top of it was beaten up some.
Click to expand...
I see on Amazo Warehouse Deals they have a MotorCraft Fuel Pump assembly ...it's open box deal but the price is right ...otherwise fgo with a Spectra
Buy used:
$36.69
Used: Very Good | Details
Sold by Amazon Warehouse
Fulfilled by Amazon


  • 71YiFS%2B0hML._AC_SX522_.jpg
 
Hey guys, so I did the fuel pressure test with key on it's at a 40 PSI I did test 4 leak down it didn't move. Now the only other thing that I have done differently since when it wouldn't start so now where it might start every once in awhile and run for about 30 seconds is I sprayed the O2 sensors in the crank sensor with WD-40. The crank sensor is covered and grimy oil. Could this quite possibly be my problem?
 
I get in 55-58 lbs of fuel pressure when driving according to forscan lite. Is 40 psi enough? I haven't checked with my fuel pressure gauge to verify the readings because I couldn't find a schrader valve.
 
I seen another post that it should be 40psi with the key turned not running and 30 psi with it idling. Doesn't Mean my information is isn't wrong. The Schrader valve is on the driver side fuel rail. Pretty much in the middle of it.
 
Pretty sure I don't have one. I have looked several times and cannot find one.
 
2000sportv8 said:
Brake paddle was stiff and pulled over.
Click to expand...

Try plugging the hose going to the brake booster, (at the brake booster end), and see how it runs. At this point your main problem seems like a brake booster diaphragm failure.

You could also trace the brake booster hose back to the engine and check for cracks and deterioration.
 
Ok I'll try that. After watching Scanner Danner and some of the South Main Auto diagnostic videos I'm actually starting to lean towards the cats being clogged. It's had a Bank 1 lean code and also catalytic under efficiency code for as long as I've had it. The person before me didn't run premium fuel. The dealership did not inform her that she had to. I figure with the fuel the codes it's had since I've owned it and the fact she drove it around with a misfire that the cats could very well be clogged. It sounds just like the car Scanner Danner was working on. Unfortunately i don't have a way to test it with removing an o2 sensor. It's Thanksgiving also so i probably don't want to go to the in-laws covered in oil. Well i probably shouldn't but i want my car back so I'll be pulling an o2 sensor here soon.
 
joegr said:
Sounds like the classic symptoms of a failed timing chain tensioner and jumped time on one of the exhaust cams.
Do a compression test or pull the valve covers to rule this in or out.
Click to expand...
Be sure and check all your fuses!
 
Rough running engine with rock hard brake pedal is classic symptom of brake booster failure, or a leak between the engine and booster. Possibly as simple as the in line check valve failing.

Take that for what it is worth... even though you have other issues.
 
I wasn't able to do anything. It's getting dark now and I'm working in the drive way. I won't work on it in the dark. To easy to miss something. Just my personal preference. I'm going to try and crimp the line to the brake booster first. Thanks everyone for the info. It does look like the exhaust got really hot. Oh and i did do a muffler delete. Also i didn't mention that this happen the day after we got our first snow and ice. I'm in ohio.
 
So today with it being colder outside it wouldn't start and run at all. So I'm starting to wonder Orwell better yet I'm going to go out with the old lady's hair dryer and see if I can heat up the ignition switch and wiring behind and see if maybe that's my problem since it did start after it got super cold out.
 
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