Headlights

lts

I've done 2 sets for my 95. Had to do the second set because as I read to leave the difusser out. With it out it makes more light if you want to light up houses and trees, and not much of the road. With it in and aftermarket hid's it is as nice as my 98. The gen 1's I cut the lense off. On the gen 2 I cooked it off. Let us know how cooking the gen 1 lense works. Thanks TONYyyy :D
 
95

95 w/led.s

HID LED 95.jpg
 
I don't have any problems, just see better!

And it blinds everyone else like you're using high beams all the time


Spree, I dunno why'd you'd consider shopping them apart BEFORE you'd at least polish them
 
If you want to pull the lenses off the housing, 400* for about 15-20 minutes should soften the adhesive enough to pull them apart. You'll wanna wear gloves

I doubt you'd get the deflector out without damaging it.
400?? I'm in the middle of my first effort...I tried cooking- started at 175, got up to 225 and gave up...cut em off....removed the diffuser w/ no prob, plan on making the inside reflective and reinstalling
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Spree, did you do the multi func sw mod? so the lo's stay on w/ brights?
 
I am chemist by training so I tried the oven much to the chagrin of my wife:rolleyes: After abt 5 min @ 400 I couldn't separate the lens but I could tell it might come off..so put it back in for abt another 5. It separated but came off like a banana peel, lol, ...major fail!! I have two more sets from my Pull-A-Part outings. I think I will go with the mechanical method...I have a medium size rotozip (solaris) and will use a diamond cutoff wheel from a cheapo Harborfreight set. One pair of headlamps i might not need to open up as it appears the chrome is in decent condition....I have bigger fish to fry right now however as I have a pretty loud clunk coming from the inside of the transmission...ah well. Slow restoration...front end is "new" and new diff and transmission bushings/mounts...tbc!:D:cool:
 
I gotta see a pic of this outcome. When I did mine the lense and housing were still very rigid but the glue was like hot gum
 
My $600, and, well quite a bit of, change 96 LSC HIDs are looking better and better.
 
I haven't done many mods to my car(s)...but converting to HID's with clear, reflective housings has by far been the best change so far...well, that and the tune
 
I am chemist by training so I tried the oven much to the chagrin of my wife:rolleyes: After abt 5 min @ 400 I couldn't separate the lens but I could tell it might come off..so put it back in for abt another 5. It separated but came off like a banana peel, lol, ...major fail!! I have two more sets from my Pull-A-Part outings. I think I will go with the mechanical method...I have a medium size rotozip (solaris) and will use a diamond cutoff wheel from a cheapo Harborfreight set. One pair of headlamps i might not need to open up as it appears the chrome is in decent condition....I have bigger fish to fry right now however as I have a pretty loud clunk coming from the inside of the transmission...ah well. Slow restoration...front end is "new" and new diff and transmission bushings/mounts...tbc!:D:cool:

Use a heat gun at about 500*, heat the rear of the housing where the lens meets the housing. Work a small section at a time until it start to come apart.
 
I'll give it a try. Lexan at 400 F ...this should be interesting. I am envisioning the Salvadore Dali painting in which the clock is melting. I can just hear my wife now...what is that stinky smell? I'll just tell her it is one of my vegan dishes! ;)

Lexan at 400 F for a short period of time should remain fairly rigid. Polycarbonates like lexan generally have to be heated to around 550-600F for molding purposes. I have seen hardened steel screws snap in half on injection molding machines because someone forgot to set the heats high enough.
 
And it blinds everyone else like you're using high beams all the time


Spree, I dunno why'd you'd consider shopping them apart BEFORE you'd at least polish them

My problem was the inside and not so much the outside. I've had people flash me when I had the hid's in the lows after the cut apart and tape method but never had anyone flash me with the halogen's in. Which is why I put the halogens back in and the hid's in the high's.
My housing's were in such bad shape (so much rust, so much chrome gone) that I couldn't tell they were on at all. I wish I would have took some pics, It looked like brown paint inside.
I figured if the tape method didn't work then I saved myself the polishing.
Now that everything turned out fine with my method I just hope when I polish them this summer there not too bright.
I still have the defusers (in the trunk now). I probably lost an 1/8 inch of lens material cutting them apart and don't want to lose another 1/8 inch putting them back in.
I cut the lenses off as close to the housing as possible. You can't tell unless you pull the housings out.
What I did worked out great and I would definitely do it again. The only money I have invested in the lights is for tape, glue and silicone. Not a bad fix for about 15 bux.
 
I gotta see a pic of this outcome. When I did mine the lense and housing were still very rigid but the glue was like hot gum

If you mean my failed outcome:eek:...no way bud..the deformed..and I mean really deformed lens is in the recycle bin...LOL!:D
 
Lexan at 400 F for a short period of time should remain fairly rigid. Polycarbonates like lexan generally have to be heated to around 550-600F for molding purposes. I have seen hardened steel screws snap in half on injection molding machines because someone forgot to set the heats high enough.

I assume it is lexan...I read that here I believe, now I am interested in poly carbonates! I didn't put a thermometer in the oven but the lens was very soft...I would think there is a time dependence also. The adhesive is really what I want to melt so a heat gun directed where the lens seals to housing is a great idea! Gives me an excuse to buy a fancy hair dryer! At this rate I'll definitely have more than $600 invested in cataract surgery!:D
 
If you mean my failed outcome:eek:...no way bud..the deformed..and I mean really deformed lens is in the recycle bin...LOL!:D

Pics or it didn't happen :)

Lowes carries Ryobi heat guns for around $40
 
I thought the 9006 bulb was the same but has center dipped to prevent
'bright' in oncoming eyes, was planning on trying these when I pull out the low beam metal piece. Should have better lighting without that in there. Has anyone already tried them?
 
I thought the 9006 bulb was the same but has center dipped to prevent
'bright' in oncoming eyes, was planning on trying these when I pull out the low beam metal piece. Should have better lighting without that in there. Has anyone already tried them?

Haven't tried that, but if you're into experimenting with bulb options you could try HIR bulbs series 9011

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-HIR1-...UTF8&colid=N41N73AUQUY6&coliid=I2ZPIWGGLMAKM0

They're exactly the same thing as the halogen bulb that is factory except for a single longer plastic tab that can be shaved off to fit in our halogen casing sockets. Several Mark VIII owners have done this and apparently these bulbs are quite bright without the downside of an illegal HID setup in halogen housing that blinds everyone else. They are DOT and street legal, originally designed for John Deere equipment and now cars.

I've been thinking of trying them out because I can't see a damn thing at night. It got a little better with new CrystalVision bulbs but it's still remarkably dangerous. Thanks Ford.

Clarification: If it calls for 9005, you need HIR1 9011. If it calls for 9006, you need HIR2 9012
 
don't pull the diffuser from the low beam bowl.. its just a bad idea.

It's only a bad idea if you never did it. Once there out you'll love the outcome, but only with the halogens. If your using hid's then leave them in. But to each his own.

If you mean my failed outcome:eek:...no way bud..the deformed..and I mean really deformed lens is in the recycle bin...LOL!:D

The reason I didn't use the oven method is because what happened to you! I didn't want to ruin the only set I had.
 
My $600, and, well quite a bit of, change 96 LSC HIDs are looking better and better.

$600?? I'd shop around before paying that much, I found these on eBay a few months ago for $190, just the lenses themselves, no bulbs..still I can't believe I got em for that price though.

IMAG1575_zps9ae6fecf.jpg

IMAG1576_zpsaaafd9db.jpg
 
Mine are nicer and completely equipped. Original bulbs and ballasts. I am not at all unhappy at the price.
 
Ive got a set of OEM hid bulbs that I'll never use out of the 96 housings I found at the JY

Nice score Kevin, they look mint. I'm not sure how you'd find some much better than those
 

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