governor

93' Blue on blue said:
If Abe is replacing the pump, would it be a good idea for him to replace the regulator also?
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IF he uses a OEM motorcraft regulator yes.

I wouldn't take off a motorcraft regulator and replace with Autozone/oriellys/pepboys/house brand regulator.

I've got a buttload of miles on my stock regulator and it still does what it's supposed to do.. it works.
 
ok, well good, at high speed runs i usually do it only with the third gear anyways because of the gears being so long so looks like i saved my self from some trouble.

anyone do a write up on the fuel pump replacement?
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
ok, well good, at high speed runs i usually do it only with the third gear anyways because of the gears being so long so looks like i saved my self from some trouble.

anyone do a write up on the fuel pump replacement?
Click to expand...

It's pretty straighforward...

Drop the exhaust, set aside.

Lower the tank, paying careful attention to the hoses that go to the filler neck. Remove them before they hangup.
Also pay close attention to the rear of the gas tank, there is a really stupid hose that goes from one side of the tank OVER the driveshaft then to the other side of the tank..
When you lower the tank it will stop the tank from lowering as it hangs up on the driveshaft {dont ask me why that hose is there)

When you take the pump assembly out of the tank, be VERY careful with the float assembly, it doesnt just "lift out of the hole".. it's like some crazy "rubiks puzzle" to get it out without bending the float rod.

If you tweak the float rod, your gas gauge is going to be screwy.

All in all it's a very straightforward job.

REMEMBER.. when working with fuel, fuel lines, fuel tanks.

you ALWAYS want to disable the fuel pump via the inertia switch in the trunk {just whack it, and verify the button DID pop up}

Then relieve residual fuel pressure at the schrader valve under the hood.

THEN.. TRY and crank the car a few times to
1 make sure you have the fuel pump INDEED disabled
2 make sure there is no residual pressure in the lines.

Use normal safety measures when dealing with flammable liquids.
no sparks, flames.. etc..

try to limit static discharge by not sliding under the car on a plastic matt or anything else that might generate a small static spark.:eek:
 
XLRVIII said:
and had to do it "on the ground" and the tank had more than a 1/2 a tank of gas {severe PITA)
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Is there any better way to do it LOL... been there done that but temp was around 15 degrees...

I was lucky that I was at a friends house so I did have a place to work.

Friend told me to dump the gas out behind his barn then burn it. Wow.. what a light show LOL..
 
i also have this wierd problem when i fill up my gas tank, completely filled isnt the gas gauge supposed to go straight up in the air (fill tank) or something like that, whenever i fill it up all the way it just goes to the F of full (doesnt stand up all the way)

geez fuel pump sounds like a pita, on my old vw you just lift up the matt and viola its right there.
 
also when you say lower the fuel tank, what is involved with this, what kind of tools will i need?
 
It's pretty straighforward.
I believe if I remember correctly it's a 15MM socket with a long extension.

You'll see when you get under there, it's easier for you to "go look" than it is for me to "rememeber" what I did 150K miles ago.

It's not rocket science, not even model rocket science.
It IS a little more technical than a VW though..haha
 
how about my fuel tank, it doesnt go to fuel fill (the needle doesnt stand straight up) when i top it off. any ideas? the gas guage has been acting a bit funny sometimes, like it doesnt want to raise unless i put a substantial ammount of gas in. another symptom of a bad fuel pump perhaps?!?! lemme know! :eek:
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
how about my fuel tank, it doesnt go to fuel fill (the needle doesnt stand straight up) when i top it off. any ideas? the gas guage has been acting a bit funny sometimes, like it doesnt want to raise unless i put a substantial ammount of gas in. another symptom of a bad fuel pump perhaps?!?! lemme know! :eek:
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On my car if I pump 3-4 gallons of gas the needle wont respond to the change for some time down the road.
Which is why I generally run my car down to about a 1/4 tank then refill it.

When I fill the car my needle doesnt "stand straight up" though, it only move a little past the full mark {maybe a 1/16th) of an inch.

..haha he said Corrado!
 
its supposed to stand up the the fuel fill mark right? cuz it seems like i cant full up to 400 miles, my computer is always a bit shy
 
The "computed" 400 miles is based on a window of driving over the last 500 miles. It's a running average based on the last 500 miles driven.

It can be both fairly accurate and way inaccurate depending on your driving habits... if you drive consistantly it's fairly accurate.
If you have alot of idle period where the car is just "running but not moving" then it will vary by quite a large margin.


ALSO... I might be mistaken, but didn't your car have a damaged Kmember because someone before you ran it into/over a curb?

If so they might have bent the metal gas tank sheild, which would push against the plastic tank and might not be allowing it to hold a "full fuel load".
(just a thought from the far side)
 
XLRVIII said:
The "computed" 400 miles is based on a window of driving over the last 500 miles. It's a running average based on the last 500 miles driven.

It can be both fairly accurate and way inaccurate depending on your driving habits... if you drive consistantly it's fairly accurate.
If you have alot of idle period where the car is just "running but not moving" then it will vary by quite a large margin.


ALSO... I might be mistaken, but didn't your car have a damaged Kmember because someone before you ran it into/over a curb?

If so they might have bent the metal gas tank sheild, which would push against the plastic tank and might not be allowing it to hold a "full fuel load".
(just a thought from the far side)
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yea your right but that would be a stretch that i dont believe the damage was bad enough to push the gas tank in, it was damaged in the front, not the back. who knows? im pulling the rear stuff tonight/tomorrow so im doing my homework on that. my rear brake also just started sqealing at me even though i got new pads installed in the rear, i guess the caliper is freezing or the rotor is shot. ghhhh - but this is a good time to do all this stuff because i'm pulling the diff, so 4.10's lsd, high flow fuel pump and maybe some performance rear brakes :-) time to get busy!
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
yea your right but that would be a stretch that i dont believe the damage was bad enough to push the gas tank in, it was damaged in the front, not the back. who knows? im pulling the rear stuff tonight/tomorrow so im doing my homework on that. my rear brake also just started sqealing at me even though i got new pads installed in the rear, i guess the caliper is freezing or the rotor is shot. ghhhh - but this is a good time to do all this stuff because i'm pulling the diff, so 4.10's lsd, high flow fuel pump and maybe some performance rear brakes :-) time to get busy!
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i just reread what you wrote and it makes more sense now, that the curb would have hit the gas tank! gotcha;)
 
I was actually suprised at "how far forward" the gas tank actually sits in the car.

it's literally right underneath the passenger area, forward of the differential.

So if the car was run into/over a curb it could really easily have damaged the metal sheild protecting the plastic tank.
BUT... you should be able to SEE it, if that's the case.
Crawl beside the passenger side and look under the car.
 
i took a look at it today, looks fine. as far as taking the lowering the fuel tank, where are these 15mm bolts i was looking didn't see em.
 
Moes8 said:
i believe the official numbers are 130mph non lsc

123 lsc

it was all about the driveshaft vibrating.
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130 would probably be due to the H rated (130mph limit) tires put on by the factory.

I'd bet these a gen 1 would do 145 stock, maybe up to 150 with the air ride at freeway height...
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
i took a look at it today, looks fine. as far as taking the lowering the fuel tank, where are these 15mm bolts i was looking didn't see em.
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As with most gas tanks they are held in place by "straps" that go underneath the gas tank and attach to the body of the car.

On the mark 8 there are two straps with 4 bolts.
The two in the front should be pretty easy to see
The two in the back are more difficult to "spot".. but when you look closely there is an "access" hole in that metal shield that leads TO one of the rear gas tank bolts.

two in the front, two in the back.. and if I remember correctly they ARE 15MM.

hope this helps
 
XLRVIII said:
As with most gas tanks they are held in place by "straps" that go underneath the gas tank and attach to the body of the car.

On the mark 8 there are two straps with 4 bolts.
The two in the front should be pretty easy to see
The two in the back are more difficult to "spot".. but when you look closely there is an "access" hole in that metal shield that leads TO one of the rear gas tank bolts.

two in the front, two in the back.. and if I remember correctly they ARE 15MM.

hope this helps
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yea helps a lot, when you say "front" do you mean towards the front of the car, or facing the back of the car.

which ones do you drop to lower it to do the fuel pump?
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
yea helps a lot, when you say "front" do you mean towards the front of the car, or facing the back of the car.

which ones do you drop to lower it to do the fuel pump?
Click to expand...

correct, front of tank is towards the front of the car and rear of the tank is towards the rear of the car.

There are 4 bolts holding the tank in place via the straps.
you will have to remove all 4 if your going to get the tank low enough to "do anything".

Might consider driving it to a muffler shop and getting an "estimate" for exhaust work.. then while they are doing that.. "take a good look" under there and you should see what I am talking about.

That'd be alot more comfortable than crawling around on the ground searching.
 
do the local auto parts stores have that walboro or edelbrock 255 pump hand by anychance? or is this something im going to have to order through summit?
 
Check Oreily's, they have a huge aftermarket catalog that you can order stuff from through their store.
 
talkin about fuel pumps what psi should a 98 lsc have at idle on the fuel rail. at the track sunday the gauge read 14-16. today I go to check it with a tester and it reads 30-32. whats up
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
do the local auto parts stores have that walboro or edelbrock 255 pump hand by anychance? or is this something im going to have to order through summit?
Click to expand...

I found when my first pump died, that most "chain store" dont/wont sell the pump by itself.
They want to sell you the entire fuel pump assembly for over 300.00!

So I went to www.50resto.com and got my 255 walboro for 109.00.
If I were you, I'd order one from Summit or www.50resto.com and not bother with a local "chain store".

They wont even be able to "find" the pump because it's not for "your year model car".

trust me.. been there.. done that!
 
XLRVIII said:
I found when my first pump died, that most "chain store" dont/wont sell the pump by itself.
They want to sell you the entire fuel pump assembly for over 300.00!

So I went to www.50resto.com and got my 255 walboro for 109.00.
If I were you, I'd order one from Summit or www.50resto.com and not bother with a local "chain store".

They wont even be able to "find" the pump because it's not for "your year model car".

trust me.. been there.. done that!
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no, they both sell EDL-3185, the exact same part. advance like i said $103 no shipping charges (they dont charge for shipping for purchases over 50 bucks) and ide rather deal with someone face to face when im handing over cash. so that way i can hand it back when it doesnt work :-)
 
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