GenII 2003 LS V6 won't start, SRVC (P), no codes, headlights intermittent

LeedsAL

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I have a 2003 LS V6 with 174K miles. With the help of this forum, I maintain it myself and have worked through several problems (coils & plugs, PCM, degas bottle, dccv, brakes, etc. ... Thanks, Guys!). Sorry for the long post, but I've learned it's usually best to give plenty of info.

Until 3 days ago, the car was running great; then, without warning, the engine died suddenly apprx 2 seconds after I cranked it from cold. That's the first time I remember it ever doing that. Normally, it cranks immediately and idles without problem. I tried immediately to start it again but it wouldn't; it cranked but wouldn't start ... as though the starter was working but there was no ignition. I tried immediately again and it started and I drove it for the rest of the day without a problem (30 minute trips). Since then, the problem has gotten progressively worse. Tonight it starts so unreliably that I don't trust it for a drive.

Here's what I've noticed since symptoms began 3 days ago.

1. When it will start, it seems to run and drive normally.

2. My OBDII code reader indicates there are no stored DTC's and everything is normal.

3. The odometer display shows SRVC (P).

4. With the headlight switch in the off position (12 o'clock position) and the ignition switch turned to the "on" position (but the engine not started), the headlights flash on and off apparently randomly. I didn't notice any other running lights with this behavior, but definitely the headlights.

5. This car has the electric emergency brake. Since I seldom use it, the light isn't usually on. Now the light sometimes stays on randomly.

6. Turn signal indicators in the cockpit work intermittently ... sometimes work normally but other times seem to blink unreliably. IOW, instead of regular "blink - blink - blink," they just blink once.

7. "Blinking red light" sensor in the center of the dash at the base of the windshield flashes erratically while I'm driving.

I always try to search for existing answers before posting a new question but I couldn't find anything that sounded like an answer to this.

As always, thanks in advance for your help!
 
I'd get the electrical system checked out. Your alternator and/or battery may be failing. If not that, then it could be a loose wire. A scan with a Ford scan tool would at least tell you which modules were losing power.
 
Thanks for the quick answer!

Had both battery and alternator out of the car and load-tested a few months ago. Both tested fine at that time but I realize that's no guarantee they're fine now. I'll follow your suggestion and take it to Lincoln ... and post results. Not sure of best dealer in my area but I'll do some web research and see if I can find out.
 
Local dealership (Long-Lewis Lincoln) says the problem is the instrument cluster and they quote $1600 for replacement with OEM part and “flashing” it to the car (plus $200 diagnostic fees already incurred). OUCH!!

Can any forum member advise a viable alternative that’s less expensive?
 
Local dealership (Long-Lewis Lincoln) says the problem is the instrument cluster and they quote $1600 for replacement with OEM part and “flashing” it to the car (plus $200 diagnostic fees already incurred). OUCH!!

Can any forum member advise a viable alternative that’s less expensive?

If it's really the cluster, you can replace it with a used one. The PATS would still need to be programmed by a dealer (or some locksmiths have the right scan tool to do it).
There's some risk with used, but it would be a lot less expensive.
Of course, this all assumes that they have diagnosed it correctly.
 
Here's an update. The dealer said the instrument cluster failure prevented the Front Electronic Module from working correctly. They verified not only the symptoms I reported but also others such as both front windows had stopped working.

I bought a used instrument cluster on ebay and took it to the dealership for installation. Because they already had the old cluster out for diagnosis, they installed the new cluster free and flashed it for $100. What I didn't realize is that there would be extra cost for fixing the odometer discrepancy on the new cluster. To change the odo on the new cluster so it would match the actual miles on the car, the dealer said they had to send the new cluster out ... cost me additional $250 and 10 days. They said ordering the part new from Ford for $1000 includes this odo match at no additional cost. So the used cluster cost more than $99 ebay price. Total cost was $350 total compared with $1000 for new Ford part. Still a good savings but not as good as I initially thought.

Anyway, after re-installation everything I've checked works except tilt and terlescope on the steering column. Both worked prior to cluster replacement. Am taking the car back to the dealer today to have them check it. Hopefully, it's just something they left unplugged and will be an easy (free) fix.

Anyway, first trip after the fix was to Gulfport, MS for an event at the Great Southern Club. A wonderful trip to a beautiful part of MS. Spectacular sunset on the gulf. Except for steering column problem, the car was flawless, reminding me how much I like it ... despite the occasional gremlin.
 
... Hopefully, it's just something they left unplugged and will be an easy (free) fix...

This is probably the case. There's an easy to miss connector back there for the column motors, if I recall correctly.
 
Are the steering column servo motors 12V? If so, I'm going to attempt supplying 12V direct through the plug connector so I can adjust the column the way I want it and then leave it there. If any forum member has advice re how to do this ... specifically where to locate the connector ... please let me know. I assume it's a 3-wire connector and that the neg wire will be obvious. Currently, the top of the steering wheel obscures the instruments.

Dealer says all connections are secure and that the problem is in my new ("used" from ebay) instrument cluster. They say power for the steering column goes through the cluster and that there's power in but no power out. I have no way of disputing what they're saying so I'm just going to pick the car up and attempt to re-position the column by bypassing the cluster. At least all other cluster-associated problems seem to have been solved.
 

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