Gen 1 V8 Alternator repair info

[oddball]

Hi, my name is Oddball and I'm an addict. If there's a harder or more expensive way to do something, I'm there.

This is for Gen 1 V8 ONLY

This is a PCM controlled alt with AS-RC-LI signals. That means the PCM has direct control over the field current, and hence output. I'm sure the regulator limits max voltage, but it clearly doesn't override the PCM if the output is low.

My Napa reman finally gave out after 4 years, and I've never rebuilt a modern alternator, so what the heck, right? Can't be that hard. The brushes were completely worn down and the slip ring had massive cuts in it.
Finding parts for modern alts is surprisingly hard. The source I ended up using was aspwholesale.com since they have a good lookup engine and actually have stuff in stock.

The v8 alternator is XW4Z-10346-BA

Interesting parts:
Transpo # Desc
F601HD Regulator and brush holder
FR6073 Rectifier

There's a nice tech sheet on the regulator out there: http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/alb...6G_PCM_Controlled_Alternators_WAI_Transpo.pdf

I found it interesting that all the reman alts only map to the Gen 1 LS and the Thunderbird, but I can't find any unique component. Rectifiers are the same for a given amperage and generation, and the regulator maps to a lot of OEM parts. I assume it's only some subtle OEM difference, but I don't follow why the aftermarket doesn't cross-reference their alts to more applications. All the other parts - case, hardware, stator, rotor - are normal 6G small case 110 amp parts.

The alt is a normal small case 6G, so any of the multitude of writeups and videos on rebuilding those work fine. Rebuild procedure is very simple - there aren't many parts. Nothing special about assembly of these units. So far I'm running well after a week.
Due to hilarious mistakes on my part, I ended up just building an alt from scratch with their parts. Yes, this is more expensive than most remans, but not as expensive as a Motorcraft unit. The slip ring on their rotor looks to have a very thin copper coating with aggressive ridges, while the replacement slip ring they sell has a very beefy ring that is very smooth.

The net of this: If you're a little brave, then you can rebuild an alternator yourself. I would generally get the rebuild kit (regulator and bearings) plus a slip ring. $55 and you'll most likely be back in business. Note that replacing the slip ring is surprisingly finicky.

 

[Rapidtransit]

Hey Oddball,

I've been researching just what you've done. My 2001 V8 has the same alternator and unless this alternator was changed before ( which I believe ) it should be ready to drop dead. Though, everything is OK at the moment at 213,000 miles. What puzzles me is the regulator color. I'm aware that the regulator is PCM controlled with AS-RC-LI signals. Research tells me that there are 3 different colors: black, white and some other combination of colors. You can't know what color you need unless the alternator is apart. I can't find what is the exact difference between these 3 differnet regulators.
I'm aware that most commercially rebuilt alternators don't play well with the Lincoln LS because of the PCM control over the alternator.
They must be installing the incorrect regulator, why I don't know.
I even thought of just getting new brushes instead of getting a new regulator. I'm not sure how to solder the new brushes in place, because I don't think there replaceable.
If you can, please shed some light on this if you can.

 

[oddball]

Buy the correct regulator and you're fine. Transpo is the F601 or F601HD ("heavy duty"). They cross-reference it to the alternator part numbers and you can ignore all the color nonsense.
There does not appear to be an easy way to replace the brushes.

 

[hite337]

Ohio generator told me that they use factory regulators in their alternators. So this leads to a question, if you were to replace the regulator in a high output alternator with the factory regulator would it communicate better with the PCM?

 

[joegr]

... if you were to replace the regulator in a high output alternator with the factory regulator would it communicate better with the PCM?

*Warning, this is speculation only.*

I would assume that communication with the PCM would be fine then, but you would lose most or all of the advantage of the high output alternator. (The PCM and factory regulator combination would only supply as much field current as was appropriate for the factory alternator.)

 

[hite337]

but you would lose most or all of the advantage of the high output alternator. (The PCM and factory regulator combination would only supply as much field current as was appropriate for the factory alternator.)

That is what I figured. Its never that easy

 

[Blueberryyum02]

I have question is there a way to get the pcm to utilize to high output by tricking the Pcm to put out more without it fring any components.

 

[joegr]

I have question is there a way to get the pcm to utilize to high output by tricking the Pcm to put out more without it fring any components.

Well, with enough time (and money) there is often a way to do most things...

I picture a custom microcontroller based unit that would sit between the PCM and the alternator. It would dynamically respond to the PCM in a way that would keep it happy. Then it would monitor system voltage on its own and control the alternator as needed. If you are going to do this, then why not simplify it a bit? Have the custom device keep the PCM happy, but then install an alternator with an old fashioned built-in regulator that doesn't need any external device to tell it what to do.