Fuel pump shutoff problem

katz_blk90se

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Anyone out there ever have any issues with their automatic fuel pump shutoff switch? I cant get my 90 Mark VII to start and when I check
the auto shutoff switch, the red button is pressed completely down.
The only way to get the button back up is to unhook the switch
and use a little flat bladed screwdriver to pop it back up. There is
also something loose inside that rattles when I shake it. It this normal?
I have never messed with this switch before and would like some
feedback before I replace it. This is the switch that is located in the trunk
on the left hand side behind the metal panel right next to the air suspension switch. :confused: :( :mad: Thanks folks!
 
I thought I had a problem with mine once, so I cut the wires from it and butt-connected them together. You can try that and see what happens.
 
I thought I had a problem with mine once, so I cut the wires from it and butt-connected them together. You can try that and see what happens.

Thanks for the idea. I am off tomorrow and will give it a shot. Will post the
results on here. Here is a shot of the front end. Hope to have folks on the road looking at the rear by the weekend!

frontend.jpg
 
Your inertia switch is a normally closed switch. The button is normally down.

If you disconnect the switch and then jumper the two wires together and the car runs fine, then the switch is bad and MUST be replaced. The reason for the switch is to shut off the fuel pump in case of an accident.

These switches normally do not go bad unless used excessively.
 
mine went bad in my 91 tc i rerouted it never had a problem after, unless the old lady hit the toggle with a grocery bag. :Beer :L
 
Swapped out the inertia switch with no luck. Looks like the dadgum fuel pump. I cant hear that puppy start up when I turn the key. Will replace it
tomorrow and see what happens...
 
Swapped out the inertia switch with no luck. Looks like the dadgum fuel pump. I cant hear that puppy start up when I turn the key. Will replace it
tomorrow and see what happens...
I'm glad that you eliminated the possibility of the inertia switch.

Before dropping the tank, I would check the fuel pressure. 40-44 pounds should be normal.
 
Just finished running at 105 MPH on I-75 in Tampa. The car is running like a
champ after the fuel pump replacement. You all saw a shot of the front of
the car, here is the rear which is what folks should be seeing again now
that I am back on the street.

rearend1.jpg.jpg
 
I'm glad that you eliminated the possibility of the inertia switch.

Before dropping the tank, I would check the fuel pressure. 40-44 pounds should be normal.
Just finished running at 105 MPH on I-75 in Tampa. The car is running like a
champ after the fuel pump replacement. You all saw a shot of the front of
the car, here is the rear which is what folks should be seeing again now
that I am back on the street.

OK.
So I'm slow :)

I'm glad that your ride is back on the road!
What pump did you go with?
Was there anything special/different about the replacement?
Are th Eagles going to win this weekend?
 
OK.
So I'm slow :)

I'm glad that your ride is back on the road!
What pump did you go with?
Was there anything special/different about the replacement?
Are th Eagles going to win this weekend?

Went with the Advance Auto 99 dollar special. Consisted
of the pump/hose only. I reused everything else after a good
cleaning. The pump and hose were an exact match.
The pump was made by a company called "Master"
whom I have never heard of, but the box had "NASCAR
Performance" on it, so I guess it is decent.

Hmmmm, the Eagles, well in my football pool only one
person out of 20 picked the Dolphins to win so I guess the odds
are with ya. I thought about picking Miami just because
of them starting John Beck, but McNabb, Westbrook and
company are simply better. So, bottom line, PHILLY wins
35 -17!
 
Give this man a drink please!

Went with the Advance Auto 99 dollar special.
Cool.
Now, everybody note today's date because 12 years from now, when someone says, "The AdvancedAutoPepZone pump is junk!" then you all can refence back 12 years and 120,000 miles that katz put on this pump and it's still kicking butt.
Consisted
of the pump/hose only. I reused everything else after a good
cleaning. The pump and hose were an exact match.
The pump was made by a company called "Master"
whom I have never heard of, but the box had "NASCAR
Performance" on it, so I guess it is decent.
Amazing.
Almost nobody supplies you with virtually ANY hardware anymore.
...
So, bottom line, PHILLY wins
35 -17!
Bartender!
Give this man a drink please!
 
Reocurring problems with fuel pump.

:shifty: HI I need help . I have the same problem. i took the motor out my car and replaced it. i've changed from a 302 to a 437 to stroked out. i put the motor back and everything, and now the fuel pump is not coming on. i got some good of your site old school. hello to oldschool how you doin? i hear 2 clicks from the relay and the engine department. the reset button in the trunk on the left hand side is still in the down position. i checked the relay in the trunk and i dont hear anything coming from it. but one of the red wires have juice going to it. the pick and black wire, dosent have any juice coming out when you turn the car on. i changed the relay and the same problem has occured. the pump has been changed, but i still have to connect it. now when the car is turned to the on position, i hear a click by the right side speaker in the trunk.the next problem is the air pump that lifts the car up will not come on. if you have any idea as to what i need to do please help me.
THANKS
RAYMOND

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Raymond,
The Club thanks you for the props.

There's truly a long list of things to check. They basically break down to
Fire
Air
Fuel
Any part of any one of these can disable the car. You really just need to test and verify them all. I could suggest the ignitin switch and the answer could be the fuel filter.

Test, confirm, repair/replace. Repeat.
 

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