Fuel Computer Data Error?!

I had this exact same error haunt me for a long time, turned out to be a frayed wire on the main harness. have heard of other instances at that spot as well. do you have any other symptoms?
 
Actually, the new theory is that my gauge is reading wrong. I got the error when I was really low on fuel (below 19 miles to empty) and now whenever I fill up I can only fill up to 3/4 a tank. The pump stops but the gauge reads 3/4 full. Can I recalibrate this thing somehow?
 
Actually, the new theory is that my gauge is reading wrong. I got the error when I was really low on fuel (below 19 miles to empty) and now whenever I fill up I can only fill up to 3/4 a tank. The pump stops but the gauge reads 3/4 full. Can I recalibrate this thing somehow?

I would suspect that it is one of the two fuel level senders, and not the gauge. (A gauge issues would never produce a fuel data error message.)

"The fuel gauge system has a saddle-type fuel tank with 2 integrated fuel senders: the fuel delivery module and the jet pump module. The fuel delivery module is located on the right side of the fuel tank, and the jet pump module is located on the left side of the fuel tank. The fuel level status is sent directly to the REM, which is hardwired to the fuel senders. The REM sends the fuel data to the instrument cluster via the communication network. Normal operating range of the fuel delivery module is from 16 ± 2 ohms at empty (E) to 155 ± 4 ohms at full (F). The normal operating range of the jet pump module sender is from 19 ± 2 ohms at empty (E) to 160 ± 2 ohms at full (F). If either the REM or the jet pump module fuel sender has an open or shorted signal, the instrument cluster logs diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1201. If the jet pump module sender is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the fuel delivery module sender value only and the fuel gauge indicates E to 1/2 tank (depending on the fuel level on the fuel delivery module side of the tank). If the fuel delivery module is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the empty position. "
 
Could I try letting it go below empty and use the odometer to see when I need to fuel up and fill up all the way? Would that reset it somehow or is that wishful thinking?
 
I would suspect that it is one of the two fuel level senders, and not the gauge. (A gauge issues would never produce a fuel data error message.)

"The fuel gauge system has a saddle-type fuel tank with 2 integrated fuel senders: the fuel delivery module and the jet pump module. The fuel delivery module is located on the right side of the fuel tank, and the jet pump module is located on the left side of the fuel tank. The fuel level status is sent directly to the REM, which is hardwired to the fuel senders. The REM sends the fuel data to the instrument cluster via the communication network. Normal operating range of the fuel delivery module is from 16 ± 2 ohms at empty (E) to 155 ± 4 ohms at full (F). The normal operating range of the jet pump module sender is from 19 ± 2 ohms at empty (E) to 160 ± 2 ohms at full (F). If either the REM or the jet pump module fuel sender has an open or shorted signal, the instrument cluster logs diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1201. If the jet pump module sender is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the fuel delivery module sender value only and the fuel gauge indicates E to 1/2 tank (depending on the fuel level on the fuel delivery module side of the tank). If the fuel delivery module is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the empty position. "

Once again Joe comes through!!!

KS
 
Could I try letting it go below empty and use the odometer to see when I need to fuel up and fill up all the way? Would that reset it somehow or is that wishful thinking?

Wishful thinking...

One of your fuel level senders is probably stuck.
 
"If the jet pump module sender is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the fuel delivery module sender value only and the fuel gauge indicates E to 1/2 tank (depending on the fuel level on the fuel delivery module side of the tank). If the fuel delivery module is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the empty position. "

OK, but whenever I fuel up to the point that the pump shuts off I check my gauge and it reads 3/4 tank. So that's higher than what your diagnostic would allow the gauge to readout, right? So... Is this really my problem?
 
"If the jet pump module sender is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the fuel delivery module sender value only and the fuel gauge indicates E to 1/2 tank (depending on the fuel level on the fuel delivery module side of the tank). If the fuel delivery module is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the empty position. "

OK, but whenever I fuel up to the point that the pump shuts off I check my gauge and it reads 3/4 tank. So that's higher than what your diagnostic would allow the gauge to readout, right? So... Is this really my problem?

That just means that neither sender is open circuit. There are several other failure modes than open circuit. If you had a scan tool that could read live sensor values, you could read the two senders with the tank full and see which one wasn't saying full.
 
That sounds complicated... How much of this would I be able to do myself? Any good walkthroughs on here?
 
is there ever anything that is not expensive to fix on this car

I once replaced the dust cap on the tire valve stem. I think I got 4 for something like a dollar.

Otherwise it seems all the parts for the LS are made of unobtanium and will cost you an arm and a leg and often be a stealership only item.

IF you can find normal "Name Brand" parts like spark plugs, then the price will be normal but LS only items are maybe 2x the price.

Just my 2 cents worth, or on the LS, Buck ninety eight.

Jim Henderson
 
Sorry forgot to mention ditto, that one of the sensors might be out. I had mine replaced under warranty long ago because of the same message.

BTW, if you smell gas inside the car, the dealer put the tank seals on wrong and maybe pinched the gasket.

Jim Henderson
 
Ya, no gas smells thankfully... If I were to have this fixed what would I expect to pay?
 
OK, new info for you alls. I let it get really empty, like 2 miles to empty then filled up all the way, far as it would go. Now the needle sits CLOSE to full but still between 3/4 and full. So it's definitely higher than it has been. Are you guys SURE I can't just let it go way below E and see if it resets somehow? I've only gotten the "Fuel Computer Data Error" once and haven't seen it since that first time which was several weeks ago now. I'm stumped.
 
OK, new info for you alls. I let it get really empty, like 2 miles to empty then filled up all the way, far as it would go. Now the needle sits CLOSE to full but still between 3/4 and full. So it's definitely higher than it has been. Are you guys SURE I can't just let it go way below E and see if it resets somehow? I've only gotten the "Fuel Computer Data Error" once and haven't seen it since that first time which was several weeks ago now. I'm stumped.

You can play around with it for as long as you want to. There's even some kind of gasoline additive that GM recommends for their cars with fuel sender problems. It might help here too.
Personally, I like having a fuel gauge that I can trust. It's not at all hard to pull the fuel senders out to inspect or replace them, and that's what I would have already done.
 
^^^
See Joegr THAT'S what I want to hear! Are there guides on how to do this then? Should I just search already? :D
 
^^^
See Joegr THAT'S what I want to hear! Are there guides on how to do this then? Should I just search already? :D

Search for the posts by those who have had to change their fuel pumps. The senders are part of the fuel pump assemblies, so the instructions on how to get the fuel pumps out and back in will be what you need.

You don't drop the fuel tank, you just remove the rear seat bottom (no tools required) to get access to the two fuel pump covers.
 
^^^
Outstanding, that doesn't sound too hard at all. Thank you Joe! One last final question before I try it, do you think these things are salvageable? Could I get them working again or should I just replace?
 
^^^
Outstanding, that doesn't sound too hard at all. Thank you Joe! One last final question before I try it, do you think these things are salvageable? Could I get them working again or should I just replace?

It depends on the fault. If it's a purely mechanical issue (like stuck float) you can probably fix it such that it stays fixed. If it's an electrical issue like dirty contacts, you'd be better off to replace it.
 

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