Mill1978
Active LVC Member
Hey my frontend started squeaking today. I Jacked her up to check if there was any play in the B joints/steering rods etc.. and there was nothing. Should i be worried?
Frontend squeak
- Thread starter Mill1978
- Start date
The Rev
Dedicated LVC Member
My squeak started and there was little play anywhere. Few weeks later it got worse, then I noticed the bushings weren't holding up too well on the lower control arms. Some spray silicone helped for a little, then I re-did everything. No more squeaking
Mill1978
Active LVC Member
Bushing look good. Matter of fact they look new. I need to call the previous owner. I think he said something about changing them last year.
The Rev
Dedicated LVC Member
Do you have zerk fittings on your lcas? Hook up a grease gun to that and get to work. I didn't have the fittings so I just greased the lca, uca, tie rod ends, and sway bar end links.
Mill1978
Active LVC Member
Ill check tomorrow
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
does it squeak over bumps, while turning, just driving straight on a flat road? the more info the better
Mill1978
Active LVC Member
When I turn and go over bumps. Sound like a old bathroom door when i turn to the left and i hear a slight squeaking over bumps
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
if you can sit still and sweep the wheel and hear the noise just have someone sweep it lock to lock and you can put your hand on the tie rod ends and the ball joints and "feel the squeak and where you feel it the strongest thats your part (the vibrations will travel)
Mill1978
Active LVC Member
Yeah I'm gon do that tommorw
gibby
LVC Member
my right front was squeaking and it was the strut rod to lower control arm bushing
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
Strut rod bushings.
hotrod markVIII
Active LVC Member
its a lower ball joint,
if it made the noise only while turning then it could be a strut rod bushing.
if it only made the noise when going over bumps then it would be a sway bar or control arm bushing.
but because its during both actions I'd bet its a lower ball joint.
make sure your doing a proper ball joint test.
just wiggiling the wheel wont tell you a bad ball joint.
to to a proper ball joint check jack up the front of the car so that the wheels are of the ground. (put it on jack stands. safety first) using a long bar. put one end under one wheel (90 degrees from the car) and lift up on the other end of the bar. lifting on the wheel and have someone looking for up and down play in the ball joint.
I'll lay money on the fact that your sound is a ball joint.
also because i had the same thing in my crown vic and my buddy had the same thing in his Mark8. both where lower ball joints
if it made the noise only while turning then it could be a strut rod bushing.
if it only made the noise when going over bumps then it would be a sway bar or control arm bushing.
but because its during both actions I'd bet its a lower ball joint.
make sure your doing a proper ball joint test.
just wiggiling the wheel wont tell you a bad ball joint.
to to a proper ball joint check jack up the front of the car so that the wheels are of the ground. (put it on jack stands. safety first) using a long bar. put one end under one wheel (90 degrees from the car) and lift up on the other end of the bar. lifting on the wheel and have someone looking for up and down play in the ball joint.
I'll lay money on the fact that your sound is a ball joint.
also because i had the same thing in my crown vic and my buddy had the same thing in his Mark8. both where lower ball joints
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
i would just replace everything in one fell swoop if you have over 100k. If it sounds like a door creek and sounds really terrible +1 for the lower ball joint. I had that happen but then shortly there after my upper on the same side started to go.
Do yourself a favor and just replace all the stuff at the same time because if one part of the suspension is worn you can bet the rest of the parts are on there way out also.
if moneys tight definetly get that lca fixed because ive read some horror stories of ball joints letting loose on people while there driving.
as for the grease, i didnt know grease had to be applied to these suspension parts and steering.... if someone could elaborate more on that, that would be super. Good luck.
Do yourself a favor and just replace all the stuff at the same time because if one part of the suspension is worn you can bet the rest of the parts are on there way out also.
if moneys tight definetly get that lca fixed because ive read some horror stories of ball joints letting loose on people while there driving.
as for the grease, i didnt know grease had to be applied to these suspension parts and steering.... if someone could elaborate more on that, that would be super. Good luck.
hotrod markVIII
Active LVC Member
the factory stuff I beleave is all un greasable but alot of jobber parts have grease fittings and require periodic lubes. good way to tell what has been replaced.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
its not necessary the lower ball joint, it could be, but ive seen even sway bar end links squeak and/or pop while turning the wheel (ford focus) and it might not show any looseness usually squeaking ft suspension components indicate a dry joint, its might not be loose yet
also it could be the upper going as how you diagnosed the lower, cuz it goes through the same range of motion as the lower.
just get out there and try to isolate the noise
also it could be the upper going as how you diagnosed the lower, cuz it goes through the same range of motion as the lower.
just get out there and try to isolate the noise
Mill1978
Active LVC Member
Okay guys it the Lower ball joint but am geting the upper done and the wheel bearing. This is all on the Passenger side. Thanks
mespock
Marxists - Socialists
Might as well do both side while you do it...
All are a simple projects that you can do in your driveway...
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
also look into the strut rod bushings. very easy to do with the lower control arm out, and if you dont do it now when you do need to it will need to be realigned again
ps also look into t bird parts for everything (except the upper control arms, if you have air ride) much cheaper
ps also look into t bird parts for everything (except the upper control arms, if you have air ride) much cheaper
The Rev
Dedicated LVC Member
+2.
Lower Control Arm for Mark: 115.50
Lower Control Arm for 96 T-Bird Supercoupe - 54.50
Do it all at once. Uppers, Lowers, Swaybar endlinks, strut rod bushings should be done just because they're so cheap. You won't regret it. Then go get an alignment and don't be like me. Take it to ford, it seems that no one else can do it right. Even when supplied with the correct specs they still messed it up.
Lower Control Arm for Mark: 115.50
Lower Control Arm for 96 T-Bird Supercoupe - 54.50
Do it all at once. Uppers, Lowers, Swaybar endlinks, strut rod bushings should be done just because they're so cheap. You won't regret it. Then go get an alignment and don't be like me. Take it to ford, it seems that no one else can do it right. Even when supplied with the correct specs they still messed it up.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
:bow:
The Rev
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh and Chicken the idea you gave me to take off the rotor and sand down the rust on the inside of it and hub itself worked, no more squeaking!