Front Sway Bar Removal

nghtshd88

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Front bushings are shot and need to replace, cant stand the noise anymore. Is there a way to remove the bar without having to dismantle too much? One thread mentions removing one LCA and lowering crossmember. Much rather replace the bar then spend a day cutting off bushings. FPG has the bar for $150 3W4Z-5482-BA
 
I dropped my secondary subframe to get mine in, it just needed an alignment afterwards because the control arms use that for one of its bushing bolts. Was the only way I got it done, on my second car. My first went in without all that hassle for some reason. This is for adding the molded on bushing version version to two different 2000 models with 30 mm (sport) sway bar. On a garage floor.
 
There were a few good posts and "write ups" from about a decade ago regarding the front sway bar swap.

I tried digging around the site some... but haven't found them yet.
 
This... may help.

 
I dropped my secondary subframe to get mine in, it just needed an alignment afterwards because the control arms use that for one of its bushing bolts. Was the only way I got it done, on my second car. My first went in without all that hassle for some reason. This is for adding the molded on bushing version version to two different 2000 models with 30 mm (sport) sway bar. On a garage floor.

Not sure how the 1st didnt require anything but thats why Im asking to avoid all of that. Maybe Gen 1 is different. From all that Ive read its looking like something you'll only know when you are in the process of removal.

When I had the dccv radiator intake and fan out i knew i should have done it.. All bolts looked very accessible from top. I dont mind removing the fan intake moving dccv again and dont think the bolts are an issue.

Its manuevering the bar out of the car that probably is and dont want to have to open the coolant/ac lines again ideally. If I have to dismantle LCA's ill replace them or the bushings in the process.

Guess I will double check if FPG has it first.
 
Bar is avail with 1-3 Day shipping delay, I guess there is a "vintage" fee now:

  • Subtotal$151.43
  • Estimated Shipping & Handling$30.56
  • Estimated Tax$10.03
  • Vintage Parts Extra Fee$9.95
  • Estimated Order Total:$201.97

Will see how I can remove the old one first before ordering, looks like the driver LCA needs to be removed and maybe the subframe has to be dropped a bit, hopefully a/c lines aren't in the way again... If I recall, the factory bar with molded bushings increases the spring rate a little.

 
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Suprisingly the bar came out easily including the 13mm bolts with the LCA's loosened up. Subrame did not have to be unbolted, just upper ball joint and shock so the LCA can lower. A/C line of course is just in the way of everything as usual. Also got the ford rebuilt alternator out again easily this time with the LCA loosened up (bearings went bad in 2yrs).

Now just debating to order the bar or replace the bushings. Leaning towards buying the bar because it helps the spring rate rather the moving freely. Went the other route on my mustang and wasnt happy with how it felt after.

LCA and motor mounts were cracked/moving also. A/F mounts were about 1/2" taller then the factory Jag mounts. Only LCA bushing replacements I found were on eBay hopefully are the same size when measuring. New OEM LCA's were about 300-600 each.
 
I cut the bracket off my sway bar and used the Energy Suspension bushings for my 2004 V8. The existing bracket should be easy to cut off with it out of the car.

Another Sway Bar Bushing Replacement Thread

You could go with these bushings for the LCA...

Jaguar S Type (1998 to 2002) Replacement Suspension Bushings

Thanks, didnt see those for the LCA's. Pricier and unsure of the extra noise they may give. In the winter here I have gotten noise off those. Went with regular bushings for $90 waiting to press in this week. Got a new OEM stock bar off ebay for $120. It feels better to me with the bushings glued to the bar so it cant twist.
 

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