Front SRB (moog) completely failed. My fault?

Myco

Myco

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When I put the bushings on the side of the sway bar that attaches to the frame I put the larger bushing on the front and the smaller bushing on the back(side toward the tire). ( this is just the front SRBushings ). I'm wondering if I put them on correctly when I replaced them because when I bought the autozone (black) SRBushing today the small bushing said F on it. (which I interpreted as front ... meaning the front side of the frame) Did a search but didn't find anything that specifies which busing goes where.

Could anyone give a bit of help?
 
i think.....the larger bushing goes to the rear of the car, the smaller one to the front.
 
If you attached them to the sway bar then you did it wrong.
 
K2.jpg


I used the Blues on this build and they suck'd, swapped em out with poly's from MN12 preformance back when Rich was still in the mix. I would strongly suggest going with Ford OEM's for this since I have had many Moog SRB's fail (even the black ones).

-Scott

**Notice Big Scott's Diamond plate jack mod!
 
Wow! Now thats a killer looking k-member!


Sadly Ford no longer sells the bushings and last time I checked, no dealers had any left. :(
 
Laser I just bought factory bushings 2 weeks ago (bushings only no steel)
and yes the Moog ones suck I think one of the big problems with them
is the steel center is really cheep and to long
After one failed I took it apart cut about .250" off and reinstalled
now I made my own sleeve but have not installed them yet
 
slowmkviii said:
and yes the Moog ones suck I think one of the big problems with them is the steel center is really cheep and to long
After one failed I took it apart cut about .250" off and reinstalled
Click to expand...

yeah i think they are too long as well. i was gonna cut my sleeves down but i cant take it apart without voiding the warranty on my alignment.
 
chris2523 said:
yeah i think they are too long as well. i was gonna cut my sleeves down but i cant take it apart without voiding the warranty on my alignment.
Click to expand...

i took it all out the front and left in the rear and didnt move the rear nut
so the alignment was still good
 
dude if you bought the vatozone srb for like 16.00 you might as well have caught a $20 bill on fire.. at least you would of had a flame to stare at for a while. thy will not last more than a month before splitting in two. complete junk...
 
I just bought the OEM SRB bushings also. Just buy the bushings and reuse the hard ware......WAY LESS EXPENSIVE. The kits may be discontinued but not the bushings.
 
chris2523 said:
that's a strut rod to lower control arm bushing. i have not had any problems with moog strut rod to lower control arm bushings.

the bushings everyone has problems with are the strut rod to k member bushings.
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Yeah, I know what it is. I could have sworn people were having trouble at both ends though.
 
Sorry folks, I should have said the complete kit. Some people switching from a Moog or Autozone part to oem bushings will need the OEM sleeve still and that kit is no longer available. If you still have the OEM sleeve then you are golden.
 
The strut rod bushings at the frame are installed in such order that the bushing with the nipple (the larger of the two) is to be the very front bushing.
Keep in mind this is the bushing (along with the very rear bushing at the control arm) that takes the most beating as you drive the car forward 99% of the time (at least I hope so ;)).
The first set you installed (assuming it was installed in proper order) might have been over torqued and thus split.
 
m_maker said:
The strut rod bushings at the frame are installed in such order that the bushing with the nipple (the larger of the two) is to be the very front bushing.
Keep in mind this is the bushing (along with the very rear bushing at the control arm) that takes the most beating as you drive the car forward 99% of the time (at least I hope so ;)).
The first set you installed (assuming it was installed in proper order) might have been over torqued and thus split.
Click to expand...

it takes the brunt of the breaking force. i discovered this at 120+ under hard breaking, it shook so hard that I thought a caliper bolt came loose scared the shat out of me. and i lightly braked and coasted to a stop after about 3/4 mi.
 
think about the wheel/tire/brakes pulling against the sub frame as the car still wants to go forward and the tire wants to stop.. the s/r is pulling back hard.
 
zmt325 said:
think about the wheel/tire/brakes pulling against the sub frame as the car still wants to go forward and the tire wants to stop.. the s/r is pulling back hard.
Click to expand...

actually, this makes more sense than what i said.
 
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