Front passenger door window control?

[boomyal]

What controls the windows besides the switches? The Mrs's '05 LS8 right front passenger door window has lost its ability to elevate (close) without having to hold the switch in the up position. This is true for both the right door switch and the driver's master control switch for that window.

You can still feel the detents in both switches but you still have to hold either of them up.

The fact that both switches act the same way tells me there is something other than the switches that is malfunctioning.

 

[joegr]

The electronic control is built into the motor. There are no electronics in the switches themselves.
You can re-initialize the control. Roll the window all the way down. Press and hold the up button. Continue to hold the up button for several seconds after the window is all the way up.
You may need to lubricate the window slides, or you may need to replace the window regulator.

 

[boomyal]

The electronic control is built into the motor. There are no electronics in the switches themselves.
You can re-initialize the control. Roll the window all the way down. Press and hold the up button. Continue to hold the up button for several seconds after the window is all the way up.
You may need to lubricate the window slides, or you may need to replace the window regulator.

A funny thing happened on the way to...........

I just went out into the garage to try your recommendation. I lowered the window with the auto down function, on the driver's master panel, then hit the auto up detent on the same control. Up went the passenger window all by its little self.

I then reached over and hit the auto down function on the right door itself. Down she went. I then hit the auto up detent on the same switch and up it went.

Go figure! The Mrs has been complaining about this for weeks and I witnessed the situation myself.

 

[medphys]

I was at the dealership today picking up 2 coils and when I closed my door, thunk! my drivers door window dropped down. I pulled it into the quicklane and we determined it was not the motor just the regulator. 141 for the part and 150 for the labor. Ive never had one drop in the '06, but when I had 2000 and 2003 they were often as coils now... $500 day

 

[LS4me]

I was at the dealership today picking up 2 coils and when I closed my door, thunk! my drivers door window dropped down. I pulled it into the quicklane and we determined it was not the motor just the regulator. 141 for the part and 150 for the labor. Ive never had one drop in the '06, but when I had 2000 and 2003 they were often as coils now... $500 day

It's a pretty easy DIY job and the part isn't that much at Napa......

Just checked...... About $100 +tax.

 

[milehighmikey]

Paid $80 for mine at autozone a few months back.

 

[boomyal]

Paid $80 for mine at autozone a few months back.

$80 for what, exactly?

 

[1LoudLS]

$80 for what, exactly?

the part that broke on medphys's car...

window regulator

 

[97Towncar-4R70W]

the part that broke on medphys's car...

window regulator

..it happens to me as well on my 97 Towncar..my driver side glass stop rolling in both directions, altough, I could hear the motor running?.. but when pulling out the window motor and open inside, I saw 3 plastic balls that were broken into tiny pieces (grinded?). Well, those balls act as locking key elements when the electric motor gear spins in either direction(up or down) to roll up/down the window thus the motor is then bolted to the "window regulator to wich the glass is bolted on the lower rail portion. Those plastic balls are made or sold under a kit made by "Dorman" as: "Window Motor Gear Kit #747-409 " for $18.99 at Autozone where I bought it on 11/30/2013 and is working fine since then.. I installed this kit to resolve 100% my particular case and saved me from buying a new motor.
I hope this info helps you too look inside your window motor.

 

[joegr]

...I hope this info helps you too look inside your window motor.

Thanks, but the LS arrangement is different. It doesn't have those parts to break. Instead, there are clips at the ends of the cables that break. After that, the regulator itself is destroyed by the cables wrapping around the drum incorrectly.

 

[Kumba]

The passenger side window regulator failed in my '06. The white clips on the rails broke off and that's all the wrote.

 

[97Towncar-4R70W]

Thanks, but the LS arrangement is different. It doesn't have those parts to break. Instead, there are clips at the ends of the cables that break. After that, the regulator itself is destroyed by the cables wrapping around the drum incorrectly.

Well, the regulator designs is more or less based on the same principle, that is: Cable operated by means of an electric motor winding up the cable on one side and releasing it on the other side into a spool inside the gear case. This will make to cable, that is attached to a slider in the regulator assembly to move up or down. Now the glass is bolted to that regulator assy. What I mentioned was that inside the motor gear assy, there are 3 plastic balls that were destroyed=churned, smashed and grinded into little pieces, thus rendering them inoperative to act as a locking mechanism inside the gear.. is something like a clutch but uses those 3 balls. I wish I could post a few photos to show you what I mean...
Now, also the regulator, has 2 "cheap" plastic grooved rollers to guide the regulator cable up & down. But tose rollers are not sold as spare parts, thus you are forced to buy an entire new regulator just for that broken little roller. Same thing goes to the external plastic clips that are mentioned...
Another cause. is the glass runners, that are adjusted, but if too tight, will impose extra effort to the motor, and thus, the cables, causing it to snap the cables, brake the rollers or the plastic clips, etc.. or ultimatedly, smoke the motor.!
Once I learn how to post photos, I will, thus an illustration is worth more than a 1000 words.
Hope this will help you to look further into other possibilities.

 

[joegr]

Our regulators don't have the "three balls." They really are very different.

There are some pictures here:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...-panel-removal&p=666851&viewfull=1#post666851

Yes, there might be some sort of clutch inside the plastic smart motor assembly, but I have never heard of that assembly failing or being replaced. It's always the regulator that fails. The regulator for the LS is just the metal brackets, cables, and the spool that is out in the open.

 

[1LoudLS]

yes while both systems may use a motor, cable and brackets. the problem you are talking about is inside the "drive section" or what could be considered the motor part of ours... the problems we have and not with the motor (which ours does look to be a stronger/better design) its with the lifting parts of the system, like the roller wheels at the end of the regulator or the clips that attach the glass.

similar systems, way different problems...