Found some pretty cool stuff with Forscan

fudge12

fudge12

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After reading the threads, I bumped into one recently that mentioned the use of Forscan with a bluetooth ELM327 adapter. So i decided why not, and after two days I received my Bluetooth ELM327 adapter (thanks Amazon :D) I did some poking around with the software and decided to test the DDM module and Instrument Cluster module and heck I was surprised to see things move around on their own. I maybe even found why my cruise control won't work even after having replaced the clockspring. Just a quick question to all of you; does the LS have two Brake On Off (BOO) switches? Here is a video I shot of it:
[video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9b7eFBJs9c0cUNOd0ljZzRIRzQ/view?usp=sharing[/video]
[video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9b7eFBJs9c0V1BkdTREZDcyX0U/view?usp=sharing[/video]


Here's a log of what Forscan picked up; I'm quite surprised:

===DSM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Driver's Seat Module

===END DSM DTC None===

===DDM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Drivers Door Module

===END DDM DTC None===

===EATC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Electronic Automatic Temperature Control

===END EATC DTC None===

===OBDII DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC None===

===IC DTC U1262===
Code: U1262 - SCP Data Link Fault

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

SCP Data Link Fault

Operator Action

Run self test.

All CMDTCs

Fix all relevant DTCs then clear codes and retest.

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END IC DTC U1262===

===GEM DTC B1446===
Code: B1446 - Windshield Wiper Park to Park time Incorrect

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Windshield Wiper Park to Park time Incorrect

--- Possible Causes --------
B1446 can be generated by:

-Intermittent open circuit between Windshield Wiper Motor Park Sense Switch to Generic Electronic Module and Wiper Brake-Run Relay
- Damaged or worn Windshield Wiper Park Sense Switch
- Suspect Generic Electronic Module.

===END GEM DTC B1446===

===REM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Rear Electronic Module

===END REM DTC None===

===ABS DTC B1676===
Code: B1676 - Battery Voltage out of range

Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module

===END ABS DTC B1676===

===ABS DTC C1960===
Code: C1960 - Driver Brake Apply Circuit Fault

Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module

===END ABS DTC C1960===

===PCM DTC P1000===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Check of all systems is not complete since last memory clear.

--Possible Causes--
- The vehicle is new from the factory and has not yet been through a complete OBD Drive Cycle.
- The battery or PCM has been disconnected.
- An OBD monitor failure had occurred prior to completion of an OBD Drive Cycle.
- The PCM DTCs have been cleared as part of a service process.

Note: The only way P1000 can be cleared (removed) from memory is when all of the OBD monitors have been successfully completed during normal vehicle operation.

P1000 cannot be cleared from the PCM when: 1. The thermostat is stuck open and a DTC is not generated. 2. There is an open VSS circuit and a DTC is not generated. 3. If the vehicle has a Power Take Off (PTO), the circuit is shorted to VPWR or B+, or the PTO is ON during Self-test.

The purpose of the Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC P1000 is to indicate that not all of the On Board Diagnostics OBD monitors have yet been successfully completed. You may also refer to the OBD Drive Cycle defined under the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis Manual-Diagnostic Methods or the Owner's Manual.

Remember: It is not necessary to remove P1000 from the Powertrain Control Module PCM by driving the vehicle.

===END PCM DTC P1000===

===PCM DTC P1572===
Code: P1572 - Brake On/Off Switch circuit failure

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Brake On/Off Switch circuit failure

===END PCM DTC P1572===

===RCM DTC B1998===
Code: B1998 - Side Airbag Open Circuit (Passengers)

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Side Airbag Open Circuit (Passengers)

--- Possible Causes --------

Passenger Side, Side Mount AirBag Circuit Open

-Suspect Passenger Side,Side AirBag circuit wiring Passenger Side,Side AirBag AirBag module

===END RCM DTC B1998===

===RCM DTC B1891===
Code: B1891 - Air Bag Tone Warning Indicator circuit shorted to battery

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Air Bag Tone Warning Indicator circuit shorted to battery

--- Possible Causes --------

Air bag tone warning indicator circuit failure


----Suspect-----
- Wiring fault (open,short)
-Faulty tone indicator
-Faulty air bag module

Faulty or damaged instrument cluster module.

Airbag Warning Indicator Short to Battery

===END RCM DTC B1891===

===RCM DTC B1869===
Code: B1869 - Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator circuit failure

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator circuit failure

--- Possible Causes --------

Air Bag Warning Lamp Indicator Circuit Open

Warning Indicator inoperative -----------------------------
- Circuit Failure between AirBag Warning Lamp & Power Distribution
-Circuit Failure between Air Bag Warning Lamp & AirBag Module


Warning Indicator always ON ---------------------------
- Short to GND between AirBag Warning Lamp & AirBag Module

-Suspect Fuse AirBag Warning Lamp AirBag Module

Check the instrument cluster connections for shorts etc.

===END RCM DTC B1869===
 
Most cars with the third brake light have two switches on the brake pedal, one controls the third stop and the other controls the brake lights. If you pay attention on the road every once in a great while you'll see someone whose brake lights don't work but the blinkers and the third brake light will work. Definite sign of a defective brake switch. I don't know which one the LS uses for cruise, but this switch would be suspect on your cruise issue. The brake lights controlled by this switch should also not be working correctly.

Of course, it may still be something else. Check your brake lights, if either the high stop or the regular brakes aren't working right (staying on or not lighting at all) your switch will be the issue.

On the side airbag error, the wiring connector at the base of the seat where the seat connects to the car's wiring harness is known to break. Folks here have fixed this by replacing the connector. A thread search will turn up the procedure, with pics, if I recall correctly.
 
There is only one brake light switch on the LS.
You will fail the brake switch test during the self diagnostics if you don't press the brake pedal at the right time during the test.
 
joegr said:
There is only one brake light switch on the LS.
You will fail the brake switch test during the self diagnostics if you don't press the brake pedal at the right time during the test.
Click to expand...

While I understand that is true, I'm not running any tests in the second video; the software is just monitoring the BOO switch for changes and reporting back. If you watch closely, one is constantly On and the other one is switching on/off with the brake pedal. Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the LS have a cut off switch for the cruise in the same location as the brake switch? Afaik on other cars, one switch is supposed to compare true to the other when the cruise is engaged, otherwise the cruise will fail to engage for safety reasons. By the way telco, all 3 lights work.
 
Sorry, I didn't look at any videos (too shaky for those of use with motion issues). Yes, there is a redundant (safety) switch for the cruise.
 
joegr said:
Sorry, I didn't look at any videos (too shaky for those of use with motion issues). Yes, there is a redundant (safety) switch for the cruise.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming that joegr.

Here's another trick I found up for scans sleeve :
20151221_151141.jpg

A light test!!! (And the ability to Control the gas gauge)

I figured my advantage light is burned out. What's the red steering light for in the upper right hand corner?

20151221_151141.jpg
 
fudge12 said:
...What's the red steering light for in the upper right hand corner?
Click to expand...

It looks like you just have traction control, not AdvanceTrac (there's a big difference).
Traction control = spinning wheel light. AdvanceTrac = sliding car light.

The red steering wheel light is for the electronic steering wheel lock that you don't have (no North American LSes do).
 
joegr said:
It looks like you just have traction control, not AdvanceTrac (there's a big difference).
Traction control = spinning wheel light. AdvanceTrac = sliding car light.
Click to expand...

Both symbols are in the cluster. If you notice, the one that you have light up is slightly off center, relative to the "V" where the tach meets the speedo. On the Gen 2 board I have lying around, both bulbs are installed. TC on the left, AT on the right
 
LSFrank said:
Both symbols are in the cluster. If you notice, the one that you have light up is slightly off center, relative to the "V" where the tach meets the speedo. On the Gen 2 board I have lying around, both bulbs are installed. TC on the left, AT on the right
Click to expand...

that would cut down on how many different clusters that they would need to produce.
 
Yep, I have advance trak, both bulbs were in there the last time I checked to replace the backlights to LED's. I guess it blew out from flashing all the time.
 
I gotta move away from a simple cheap OBDII reader and try this Forscan stuff, way more interesting.

+1 fudge
 
BigRigLS said:
I gotta move away from a simple cheap OBDII reader and try this Forscan stuff, way more interesting.

+1 fudge
Click to expand...

Wait till you find out FORScan is also simple cheap OBDII reader stuff. It's just software. Free on Windows, free lite versions for iOS and Android, and the full Android app is only $5. I use my laptop with a $20 OBDII Bluetooth adapter.
 
Forscan is a pretty darn good software as far as letting you tinker with things normal scan tools won't let you do.
BigRigLS: definitely try it out, it's worth every penny for the bluetooth adapter since you can use it with either android or pc.
LSFrank: have you ever played with the Keyless Entry option? I'm interested if we can actually program a remote without having to pay the dealer $200 for a new one
 
I didn't see anything on it. I went through the list of modules looking for PATS, but assumed it was just inaccessible for security/theft reasons. I now realize PATS probably isn't an independent module. Which module had keyless entry? PCM? DDM? I should have an extra remote somewhere
 
LSFrank said:
I didn't see anything on it. I went through the list of modules looking for PATS, but assumed it was just inaccessible for security/theft reasons. I now realize PATS probably isn't an independent module. Which module had keyless entry? PCM? DDM? I should have an extra remote somewhere
Click to expand...

Keyless entry is not related to PATS at all. (PATS is in the cluster.) The DDM (Driver's Door Module) runs the keyless entry functions (keypad on gen II and RF remotes on both gens).
 
I just added the FORscan to my Android tablet, will be connecting via WIFI OBDII tool. Looking forward to seeing what all I can do with software app. I did add some other OBDII apps as well, this should be very interesting.
 
fudge12 said:
LSFrank: have you ever played with the Keyless Entry option? I'm interested if we can actually program a remote without having to pay the dealer $200 for a new one
Click to expand...

Pretty late response, but it looks like you have to get a short term license to add keys (and access any PATS items), and it requires one working key. It's that whole "theft" thing people would try. But you may or may not have to pay, since as of a year ago, they don't have a way to take donations. Forscan is a cool app, but information is pretty hard to get through. But it is free. I haven't found anything about fobs online and the one I was going to test was apparently already programmed to my car. I have some on the way, though

A note on the keypad: I tried reading the keycode through FORScan on two other cars and neither gave the right code. Hell, one of them displayed only 4 digits. But again, it's free...
 
LSFrank said:
Pretty late response, but it looks like you have to get a short term license to add keys (and access any PATS items), and it requires one working key. It's that whole "theft" thing people would try. But you may or may not have to pay, since as of a year ago, they don't have a way to take donations. Forscan is a cool app, but information is pretty hard to get through. But it is free. I haven't found anything about fobs online and the one I was going to test was apparently already programmed to my car. I have some on the way, though

A note on the keypad: I tried reading the keycode through FORScan on two other cars and neither gave the right code. Hell, one of them displayed only 4 digits. But again, it's free...
Click to expand...

You are talking about the keys, but he was asking about the remotes...
 
joegr said:
You are talking about the keys, but he was asking about the remotes...
Click to expand...

Which is why I mentioned not finding anything about fobs yet. The initial part about the keys was just to give some extra info about FORScan. Presumably, if you can program one, you can program the other. I'll have some new fobs and keys next week to try out if I get the license
 
Pretty cool app.I paid $4.99 for the iOS version. I like that you can email the reports and clear codes while the car is running. They must have broken some Ford software, because the report says copyright Ford in places.
 
I can't look any time soon, but thanks for the heads up. Windows or mobile? Paid or free? I have the Windows program and the free mobile version. I was considering buying the full but many reviews said it was crap compared to the free full Windows version
 
I see in the forescan forum somebody was able to calibrate Advancetrac and make the light go out..

Not much info on how or where in the program.

anybody tried it ?
 
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