Few Questions, Over heating again...What route do I go?

I looked on the pavement outside what I thought had been oil from changing my oil before the trip and it might be the hydraulic fan fluid. I looked at the reservoir and it seems there is none in there and at the bottom of it the other pipes seem to be covered in whatever is on the ground. Do you think the fan motor is fried? It's kind of a yellowish color.
 
wade0731;2037357298... Do you think the motor is fried?[/QUOTE said:
No. Running with the reservoir empty won't hurt the fan motor. However, the hydraulic pump may now be toast (which would keep the fan system from working). I'd clean it up and refill the reservoir. If there are no immediate leaks, then start the engine and see if you can tell where it is leaking from.
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10595899_10152218369861759_315310967_n.jpg
That is what it looks like on the ground.


Okay I will run to the store and pick some up and try it! Thanks so much for the help Joegr. Will report back with what happens soon.

10595899_10152218369861759_315310967_n.jpg
 
Okay yep, that was it. Filled it up and the fan ran again! Hallelujah! However it has definitely been leaking. I have pictures of where it is leaking by the nut in the middle of the fan shroud I think.

Here are pictures where it is leaking I believe. 10570975_10152218421116759_87657908_n.jpg10588605_10152218421121759_359587204_n.jpg

10570975_10152218421116759_87657908_n.jpg


10588605_10152218421121759_359587204_n.jpg
 
Not so much. You'll have to tear into it and find the source of the actual leak. What you are looking at, could just be where it is dripping down to. Use brake parts cleaner to get it clean enough to find the leak if you can't see it coming out.
 
Took it to a local shop that would look at it for free and they are saying it needs a new fan motor. Where should I buy this, new or used and what would he part # be? They said I will have to get it from the dealer but even they said don't buy it from them because it would be outrageous and to look online or at a parts yard.

Do you think it could really be the motor leaking even though it is working?
 
Your best bet is to do as Joe said. Clean everything up, fill it up with fluid and then run it and watch for where it's leaking.
 
wade0731 said:
...Do you think it could really be the motor leaking even though it is working?
Click to expand...

Yes, it can leak and work at the same time. I would think that it may be possible to rebuild it and fix the leak.
 
wade0731 said:
I did do that. I have pictures of where it is leaking above.
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Hard to tell from pics, only you will be able to see where it's actually leaking (it could be from anywhere above the pic). Do you see it leaking from the assembly itself? If so, you answered your own question.
 
joegr said:
Yes, it can leak and work at the same time. I would think that it may be possible to rebuild it and fix the leak.
Click to expand...

Hmm, okay so it could be just a gasket possibly inside there or something? I might try and find a write up on pulling all of that out and try to take it apart.
 
Are all gens fan pumps the same? Or is it 00-02? Also are the V6 and the V8 models fan pumps the same? If so I have a v6 00 with 79k on the pump that I can get for cheap.
 
wade0731 said:
Are all gens fan pumps the same? Or is it 00-02? Also are the V6 and the V8 models fan pumps the same? If so I have a v6 00 with 79k on the pump that I can get for cheap.
Click to expand...

Hydraulic fans were only used on the 1st gen (2000 - 2002). The 2nd gens have electric fans.
The parts catalog seems to indicate that it is the same fan for V6 or V8, but I can't verify that.
 
Okay Joegr, I got the new pump installed everything is together. I went to put new coolant in and I noticed it was orange and stopped immediately. I didn't even pay attention to what I bought and put the wrong stuff in. I probably only got 2 cups in there max. Can I not mix 2 jugs of the green in just to get me to the shop to vacuum it out? IT will be heavillllyy diluted. Do I get the whole thing flushed somehow? IF it's not 1 thing it's another..

Is there anyway I can flush it myself?
 
wade0731 said:
Okay Joegr, I got the new pump installed everything is together. I went to put new coolant in and I noticed it was orange and stopped immediately. I didn't even pay attention to what I bought and put the wrong stuff in. I probably only got 2 cups in there max. Can I not mix 2 jugs of the green in just to get me to the shop to vacuum it out? IT will be heavillllyy diluted. Do I get the whole thing flushed somehow? IF it's not 1 thing it's another..

Is there anyway I can flush it myself?
Click to expand...

Is it Dex-Cool or just orange????? As long as it's compatible with the green stuff (the container should say) you should be OK.

YMMV
 
It is the Dex-Cool I believe. Here's a picture of the bottle. AND ontop of everything else. I don't think it was the pump leaking. I filled up with mercon v last night let it sit to see if anything would leak and it's pretty much all below the car again so I think it could be the rubber piping coming into the pump possibly... Some more trial and error I guess. Oh well was probably good to replace the pump anyway.

I was reading this post:http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?77269-hydraulic-fan

And Quick LS said in that thread: here is a hydraulic hose running from the pump to the fan pump - and it always breaks right at the neck of the coupling on the pump.

Where is this loated exactly?

10609300_10152227282151759_1873882348_n.jpg

10609300_10152227282151759_1873882348_n.jpg
 
Why are we putting GM DEX Cool orange in a first gen Lincoln LS?


from your 02 OM, downloaded in the Tech articles.

Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant (green-colored),
VC-4–A (U.S.) or CXC-10 (Canada) or Motorcraft Premium
Gold Engine Coolant (yellow-colored), VC-7–A (VC-7–B in
Oregon), depending on the type of coolant originally equipped
in your vehicle.



Do not add/mix an orange-colored, extended life coolant such
as Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant, VC-2 (US) or
CXC-209 (Canada), meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44–D
with the factory-filled coolant. Mixing Motorcraft Speciality Orange
Engine Coolant or any orange-colored extended life product with your
factory filled coolant can result in degraded corrosion protection.
 
wade0731 said:
attachment.jpg

That is what it looks like on the ground...
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Hmmm ... corroded rusted out GM DEX-Cool orange drippings ?



DEX-COOL ANTIFREEZE PRECAUTIONS

In 1996, General Motors began factory filling all their cars and light trucks with "Dex-Cool" antifreeze. Dex-Cool is made by Texaco and is marketed under the Havoline "Extended Life" brand name.

Dex-Cool has a service life of five years or 150,000 miles, and is dyed orange so it can be easily distinguished from ordinary green antifreeze. It is an ethylene glycol antifreeze but contains a unique corrosion-inhibiting chemistry that uses an organic acid technology (OAT) additive package instead of silicates, phosphates or borates.

GM says Dex-Cool should NOT be intermixed with ordinary antifreeze because doing so reduces the service life of the new coolant to that of ordinary coolant. Many motorists do not know this and may add ordinary coolant to top off their cooling system. In so doing, they reduce the service life of their coolant by half or more.

Ford also uses an OAT-based silicated hybrid antifreeze in their 1999 Mercury Cougars, and Chrysler uses a silicated OAT orange antifreeze in 1998 and 1999 LH models (Dodge Intrepid, Chrysler Concorde, Chrysler 300M).

As long-lived as OAT-based antifreezes are, GM does not recommend using Dex-Cool in older vehicles with copper/brass radiators and high lead solder seams. The reason is because the additives in Dex-Cool can eat away at the solder leading to premature radiator failure. There is also concern that it can erode water pump impellers that experience lot of cavitation (new GM engines have specially designed water pump impellers to minimize cavitation).

Dex-Cool has experienced some problems in GM applications at relatively low mileages. If the coolant level is low, or the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant drops too low (say 25% instead of the normal 50%), sludge deposits can form that plug up radiators, heater cores and cooling jackets. Some problem applications have included the cast iron 4.3L V6 engine in Chevy/GMC S-10 pickups and Blazers/Jimmys (these vehicles do not have a pressurized coolant reservoir).

The plugging problem has created a demand for "retrofitting" new GM vehicles back to ordinary antifreeze. Though GM does not approve this, people who have experienced problems with Dex-Cool (or who want to avoid the risk of such problems) are having Dex-Cool removed and replaced with conventional antifreeze.
 
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