Fender Rolling tool?

I wouldn't recomend one of them, but thats just me. They can do an okay job for a knock it semi straight, slather it in bondo, prime and paint kinda of shop.

If that kind of repair is good enough for you the why not. If you want to repair a panel properly you would have to remove it from the car fix the damage with a hammer and dolly check everything, more dinging, recheck, continue till perfect...

I guess it really depends on what you're trying to acomplish.
 
1993_M75 said:
I'm about to buy a fender rolling tool ( http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...emType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=6159&keyword=31158 ) but before I do, I figured I'd check and see if anyone here had one that they are loaning out.

Anyone, anyone? Bueller, Bueller?


Nothing wrong with that tool. I don't think the other cat knows what you are trying to do. That tool will accomplish what you are tying to do just fine.

It might be worth looking around local to see if a body shop will do it for ya. It may be an inexpensive service and save ya from buying the tool...

Cheers,


Brad
 
kustomizingkid said:
I wouldn't recomend one of them, but thats just me. They can do an okay job for a knock it semi straight, slather it in bondo, prime and paint kinda of shop.

If that kind of repair is good enough for you the why not. If you want to repair a panel properly you would have to remove it from the car fix the damage with a hammer and dolly check everything, more dinging, recheck, continue till perfect...

I guess it really depends on what you're trying to acomplish.

Uhm, I'm not trying to repair anything.

I'm trying to get more clearance for the 18x9.5 GT500 replica wheels with 275s that I have out back that rub the fender lip if I go over bumps. 245s would have fit fine, but I wanted something more meaty. :D

Plenty of people have used fender rolling tools on many different cars and if you take your time and use a heat gun to keep the paint from cracking, you will have the extra little bit of clearance you need without getting the car repainted.
 
The rear fender lips on the rear of the E46 M3 are quite thick. I measured them at 0.77 inches from outer to inner edge. As a result, when you install wider wheel and tires, and lower the car, it is quite possible that the outer edge of the rear tire will start to rub on the inside of the fender lip when cornering or going over bumps.



Much of the paint on the inside of the fender lip has been rubbed off. This is with 275 mm tires and 10 inch wheels. There are two solutions. One can literally cut the inner edge of the fender lip off. This can be done with a cut-off wheel. The result is good in terms of the clearance created. But it tends to weaken the rear quarter panel, so you want to be careful not to lean against it (or let anyone else lean against it). The cutting method is what I chose to do on my E30 M3. I had to take some time to paint the bare metal edge that was left after cutting to prevent rust from setting in.
The second option is to roll the fender lips upwards and inwards. This can be done with a special machine designed for the purpose. This tool bolts onto the hub and uses a poly-urethane wheel on an adjustable arm which is rolled back and forth to modify the shape of the lip. However, shops that have these (expensive) tools are often unwilling to use them on non-customer cars. But you can roll the fenders yourself with a little perseverance. This is usually done with a length of wood (some folks use a baseball bat). I did not invent this, it is a well known technique.

The basic idea is to place the wood dowel between the tire and the fender lip, and then, while applying pressure against the lip, have an accomplice roll the car forward and back, all the while rolling the dowel along the fender.




I used a 2.00" diameter Maple dowel. Oak would also work well. Pine would be a poor choice, it is not hard enough and would most likely splinter. There is one important factor to making this work. You have to be able to get the dowel in between the fender and the tire! I found that installing a factory 18" front wheel and tire gave just about the right amount of space. I added a 5mm spacer to make the clearance even better. I could just squeeze the wooden dowel in between the tire and fender lip.



Using this technique I was able to reduce the thickness of the fender lip from 0.77" to about 0.55" which is a significant improvement, almost a quarter it.

Caution: there is a risk of cracking the paint along the edge of the fender lip when performing this procedure. Use a heat gun to warm up the paint before rolling and you will have less chance of cracking, but there is no guarantee. I did crack the paint on one side over a 1cm section, but this was partly due to the paint having been damaged previously by rubbing tires. A little touch up paint is all that was needed to correct the situation.
 
Wow I completley mis understood what you were saying, Makes me feel dumb.

I've have just seen people buy those to repair fenders. Not such good results.
 
Too late already ordered. Plus that rental fee is a little salty for a tool that I can buy with a heatgun for under $300. A $30 rental fee I would consider reasonable. But $75 and I only get the tool for 3 days? No thanks.
 
I have 18X9.5s with 265/40s all around. I did mine with some cheap body tools. The quarter panel on the MarkVIII is surprizingly durable, I beat on it quit a bit watching carefully for damage, and was surprized how much I rolled it. Did have to use alot of touch up paint on it, there was no way the paint was staying on. I just make sure to keep it waxed in there good, don't even wipe the wax off up in there. You'll need to trim the bumper cover edge too a little. When looking at the drivers side I believe I did about 12:00/noon lightly, and more and more till your at the bumper cover edge.
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
I have 18X9.5s with 265/40s all around. I did mine with some cheap body tools. The quarter panel on the MarkVIII is surprizingly durable, I beat on it quit a bit watching carefully for damage, and was surprized how much I rolled it. Did have to use alot of touch up paint on it, there was no way the paint was staying on. I just make sure to keep it waxed in there good, don't even wipe the wax off up in there. You'll need to trim the bumper cover edge too a little. When looking at the drivers side I believe I did about 12:00/noon lightly, and more and more till your at the bumper cover edge.

Hmmm, I didn't look like I'd need to trim the bumper cover on mine. I'll have to check that. Whatever it takes though. I'm never going back to my chrome directionals (even though they are damn near mint condition).

I looooooove the way the car handles with these wheels & tires. It is like a completely different car. And the car is dead smooth up to at least 90 on the interstate now. No more vibration from 75 to 85.

Up front, the fit could not be any better. I would say 245s are perfect up front on a 9.5" wide rim. The offset is perfect, the wheel is tucked in as far as possible without customizing suspension parts. I can't even get my pinky between the wheel and the spindle.

Out back, It looks like if I relocated the parking brake cable, I could fit another inch of rim width..... I wonder how much it'd cost to have these bad boys widened... :evil:

The car looks sick from behind with those 275s on it.
 
I'm lowered. The bumper cover does come into play then with the big bumps.

MarkVIII Back&Pass.JPG
 

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