Factory Amp(s) turn on wire... & reverse signal wire

Andrizzle

Andrizzle

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Okay I have been searching for forever, I find the thousands of threads on head unit installs etc... I have all my sh!t in, but I cannot for the life of me understand how to get the factory amps on. :D


Where do I connect the remote turn on from the HU?


I have an 04 with THX NAV system, and I think this is the only thing I am missing.

I figured it would be in the C290D factory connector, but it appears it is not...
I am installing the Avic-X920BT in case anyone cared.

I have leftover in my harness:

1 pink 'mute phone'
1 orange/black
1 blue 'power antenna'
3 brown wires (other than the one used for the SWC)

In addition to the amp turn ons, where can I tap into a reverse wire for my backup camera?


It is confusing with so many plugs left behind from the factory radio... I am not sure which were used for NAV and which control the factory amps?



Sorry for all the noob questions, but I have never done the whole factory amp usage thing.
 
C2253d - Pin 9 - Yellow/Violet wire, enable for four channel amp and sub amp (same connector as the audio feeds)

Reverse is the white/black wire at the rear view mirror.
 
Thanks for the response joe.

Damn... Well before I tackle this... Am I basically gunna have to hack into the C2253D connector as my harness and manually connect all the audio + remote turn on?

Then run 12vs/ground/dimmer from the C290D connector?


And is that really the closest reverse signal wire to the dash unit? Dam like WTF. lol


0996b43f80235612.gif
 
I haven't seen a plug-n-play harness wired correctly for the in-dash nav, so yes you will be doing some hacking.

I couldn't find a closer/easier way to pick up the reverse sense. I tapped it at a connector in the passenger side just over the rear package shelf. (It ran from that in-line connector set on up to the mirror.)
 
Driz, you should be using an adapter harness (Metra, Scosche) that will make it easier. Check my thread on Avic F90BT install - I now have an X920 myself and used the same harness as what I did with my F90.

I reread your post, and figure that you already have an aftermarket harness. You won't use all the wires on it. Joe has steered you in the right direction, but I don't remember having to dig into my factory harness. I may have vampired onto a wire on it for that, but for some reason I'm thinking that I just connected it from the aftermarket harness adapter.
 
I saw your thread Tru, when you did the F90BT.

It looks like you removed a 6disc changer, and not a THX Nav unit. Is this correct?


I do have the aftermarket harness, but with this system, the audio outs go into the factory amplifiers via a different connector. (the one above)

The large connector that you attach the aftermarket harness to is nearly empty, it only has powers, ground, dimmer. No audio connections.


Am I really the first person with stock THX NAV to put in an aftermarket themselves?


I got the backup camera wired and I ran the line for that with my RCAs for subwoofer amp in the back (I used to have RCAs tapped into LOC in rear). So now I eliminated the need for the subwoofer outs on the factory harness. However all of the door speakers are still in that harness...


This is going to be a total b!tch mainly because I am going to have to solder INSIDE the car...
 
Okay so this morning I hacked into the stock harness... And I tested to see if I have sound now... The answer is yes, but now the volume is WAYYYY high. Like volume on the Headunit @ zero still has the sound up extremely high, it is so high the speakers have that slight static in them when idle.

What could be the issue now?

I am guessing it has something to do with the stock amp?

Any help appreciated.



EDIT: After further pondering... Is it possible since I am running into the stock amp, that the signal is basically amplified twice? Once by the headunits built in, then to the factory amp...? I am starting to wonder if I need to go to the factory amp and just bypass it completely?
 
Sorry, Drizz. Didn't realize you had the THX system. My 06 was only a Premium, not an Elite so yep I only had the 6 CD changer.

I don't envy you with dealing with the THX amp/wiring. However, with everything else you've done to your beauty, I figured you would want to go aftermarket on the amps/subs as well.

Good luck!
 
Okay I bypassed the amp and it works.. Now to get everything back together and find the reverse signal wire... lol
 
damn thats a lot of busy work...you should take a picture of the harness you made for future reference please
 
Andrizzle said:
Okay I bypassed the amp and it works.. Now to get everything back together and find the reverse signal wire... lol
Click to expand...

Sorry, I gave you the wrong color. The reverse wire is white/blue. It's pin 4 at the REM, pin 3 at the mirror, pin 2 at connector C311 (right side of rear package tray), and pin 11 at the rear park assist module. Of course, you could tap into the feed to the backup lamps instead.
 
I am going to take photos for sure, this is wayyy involved.

joe, no wonder I could not find it... I was looking hard for a black/white! Good thing I gave up before going crazy. I will take a shot @ the white blue.

I am guessing the mirror is the closest to the HU since I don't know what the REM is?
 
Andrizzle said:
1 pink 'mute phone'
1 orange/black
3 brown wires (other than the one used for the SWC)
Click to expand...
you can pull these out since they wont be used at all, did you all ready find the illumination wire at the ash tray?

Andrizzle said:
In addition to the amp turn ons, where can I tap into a reverse wire for my backup camera?
Click to expand...
i just tapped into the tail lamp wire right in the trunk lid since i have to run the wires for the camera up to the radio any way.

Andrizzle said:
but now the volume is WAYYYY high.
Click to expand...
this is exactly correct
Andrizzle said:
Is it possible since I am running into the stock amp, that the signal is basically amplified twice?
Click to expand...
with a lot of real high end factory systems, there amplifier is usually much better that the one in the aftermarket headunit.(especially the ones with more than four channels) what i always try to do first is use the pre amp connections on the radio to the amps inputs(usually by cutting up a set if RCA's and soldering them to factory harness), its pretty much exactly like hooking up aftermarket equipment just with out the convince of standard connectors, unless it has some sort of digital inputs or controls, which in that case you have to just spend the money on integration module.


joegr said:
The reverse wire is white/blue. It's pin 4 at the REM, pin 3 at the mirror, pin 2 at connector C311 (right side of rear package tray), and pin 11 at the rear park assist module.
Click to expand...
?Joe, is that the same color at all locations?

driz, i also like the second location because this is a good place to find an ACC trigger that also has the RAP feature (Retained Accessory Power-where the radio, window, and sunroof (the actual reason for that wire there) stays on after the key is turned off) any you will use a little less wire running up to that AVIC and also less wires through the trunk hinge channel.

what i dont remember, and maybe Joe can help me with this, is if the factory turn on wire for the THX systems also needs a resistor for the turn on wire
 
REM, rear eletronic module, controls the rear half of the car. FEM controls the front stuff
 
haha.. Thanks for the replies guys.

I got it all setup. I tapped into the mirror and everything works like it should. The only thing is I could not get the steering wheel control adapter to work... Perhaps I was programming it wrong or I think I may be tapped into the wrong wire...

Anyways I don't care for now, I got the dam thing in and it actually fits even with all the clusterfock behind it! The backup cam + the park assist is totally pro!

Well it is 2:00am my time and I have work in the morning, the LS is still trashed inside, but at least I will have music tomorow.

Any suggestions on the steering wheel control wire would be appreciated!

Thanks for the help guys. And I have photos of my hacking into factory harnesses on the way.
 
Okay. So it ia driving me crazy (pun) not having control on the wheel buttOns.

You guys who used the Adaptor, which wire do you tap into? The instructions with the adaptor are a joke.
 
Andrizzle said:
You guys who used the Adaptor, which wire do you tap into? The instructions with the adaptor are a joke.
Click to expand...

sorry, your harness is a little different than mine.

go hear for specific instructions,
http://www.pac-audio.com/SWI/SWIApp...oduct=SWI-PS&swiRadioManu=Pioneer&swiOptions=

EDIT:, didnt see the same link in post above

make sure you have power (red), ground (black), and the corect resistor wire (white), for a cleaner install remove all wires from the SWI's harness that are not being used(must leave the purple and brown loops and the red,black, and white wires) from the interface hooked up, and its hooked up to pin 18, in you main factory plug, i would make sure that i soldered this wire at least since it works off of varying resistances.

the step that most people miss, is grounding pin 19 in the factory harness, this is the ground input wire for the buttons themselves, if this is not grounded, then nothing is outputted from pin 18 with button presses

now if all of the connections are correct
to be a little more specific, does the SWI not program, or does it not function after its programed (does the LED work as described during the programing)? does is even get into the program version stage
 
Okay, i deleted the last two posts.

I finally figured it out by just going through every HU brand version...

I got a kenwood program to work, but the buttons were all swapped, so I learned the kenwood sequence and pressed the wrong buttons on my steering wheel accordingly.

Now it is working exactly how I want.

YES!

now time to go put everything back together... ;[
 
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