F Me! Power Steering Pressure Line a $#$@$!

OK, thanks. Buying that stuff is necessary or ... avail at dealer or maybe rockauto. I'll look there. Pretty soon I'll be able to open an auto repair biz with all the tools I've purchased!!

I've read that all the easy way is to just fill the reservoir, turn on the engine and turn the wheels left and right until the air bubbles are gone...
 
I've read that all the easy way is to just fill the reservoir, turn on the engine and turn the wheels left and right until the air bubbles are gone...

Could it REALLY be that easy...?
 
Could it REALLY be that easy...?

Hmmmm..... Maybe not.....

www.agrperformance.com Tech Support: 817-626-9006
1
When to Bleed
• After any steering component replacement.
• If any part of the power steering system is opened for any reason.
Why Bleed
• To prevent pump damage.
• To ensure proper system operation.
• To stop steering system noise.
Before Bleeding
Carefully inspect the steering system.
• Hoses must not touch any other part of vehi
cle. Steering system noise could be caused
by the hose touching the frame, body, or engine.
• All hose connections must be
tight. Loose connections might not leak but could allow
air into the system. Do not over tighten o-ri
ng hoses as the o-ring might be crushed.
Check flare seat type connections for exact fit.
BLEEDING AIR FROM POWER
STEERING SYSTEMS
IMPORTANT
When bleeding air from a power
steering system, please follow
AGR’s bleeding Instructions
only. AGR has found the following method is the only proper way to bleed a system.
Do not start the engine until system
is fully bled. If on a Hydr
o Boost system, follow hydro boost
bleeding procedures after bleeding the power steering system.
CAUTION
Failure to read and follow these instructions
will void any warranty and possibly cause severe
damage to your power steering and/or hydro boost brake components. If you have any
questions please contact your dealer.
www.agrperformance.com Tech Support: 817-626-9006
2
How to Bleed
Step 1
Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the
power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can
cause metal to metal contact and damage.
Step 2
Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.
Step 3
Turn steering wheel
fully to the left.
Step 4
Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.
Step 5
Whith an assistant checking the fluid level and
condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and
smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in
pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped,
no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the
reservoir or pump. Until this
bubble passes, no fluid will
circulate through the system.
— On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram
assist you may need
to cycle in excess
of 40 times.
— Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this
will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir.
Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thor
oughly clean any spille
d fluid to allow for
leak check.
Step 6
Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.
— If you see any signs of bubb
les, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
— Fluid level should be steady (R
ock Ram’s level will vary slightly).
Step 7
Disable engine from starting. (
Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems
)
— Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid leve
l drops, there is compressed air trapped in
the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.
— If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minute
s or more until dispersed air has time to
accumulate and purge through the reservoir.
Step 8
Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.
Step 9
If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to
Step 11
.
Hydro Boost Systems Only
— Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by pe
rforming three full presses on the brake
pedal.
— Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping.
— Once foam clears, crank engine unt
il it just catches and shut off.
— Discharge Hydro Boost unit with thre
e full presses of the brake pedal.
— Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir.
— If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled.
IMPORTANT
Use only clear, name brand, premium, racing or
synthetic power steering
fluid, such as Royal
Purple or Red Line. Do not use transmission fluid, as transmission fluid does not contain the
same friction inhibitors/additives and tends to breakdown and overheat. Use of transmission
fluid will void the warranty.
WARNING
These Hydro Boost specific instructions must be
followed. Failure to follow these procedures can
cause your new high volume pump to become damaged or fail completely. Do not turn the
steering wheel while performing these procedures.
www.agrperformance.com Tech Support: 817-626-9006
3
— Repeat above steps.
Step 10
Enable engine to start. With engi
ne idling, maintain fluid level.
Step 11
Reinstall reservoir cap.
Step 12
Return wheels to center.
Step 13
Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in
Step 2
.
Step 14
Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions.
Step 15
Do not hold steering wheel against the stops.
Step 16
Verify the following conditions:
— Smooth power assist
— Noiseless operation
— Proper fluid level
— No system leaks
— Proper fluid condition
— No bubbles, foam, or discoloration
Step 17
If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete.
Step 18
If any problem exists, turn off engine and see Special Conditions below.
Special Conditions
If you experience any of the conditions liste
d below, there is still air in the system.
• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles).
• Power steering fluid should not rise in the
reservoir when the engine is turned off. If
this occurs, there is trapped air in the system.
• Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a
bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose.
• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color).
TIP
It is recommended on Ford Super Dutys with Hydro
Boost Brakes, that the original pressure line
from the Hydro Boost Unit to the pump be replaced
with the updated line. Also
that the Ball Joints
be checked for lubrication, stiffness or wear.
If you have excessive metal in the fluid, the hydr
o boost will not bleed, is noisy or the brake pedal
feels funny, call AGR Technical Support.
NOTE
If you need to replace your hydro boost brak
e unit, AGR recommends replacing with a ported
unit and not an OEM unit.
www.agrperformance.com Tech Support: 817-626-9006
4
Eliminating Air in the Power Steering System
Follow the steps below to eliminate air in the power steering system.
Step 1
Turn ignition off. Wait thirty minutes. Recheck
hose connections. Repeat
start up procedures.
If problem still exists, replace or ch
eck for possible causes including:
— Return hose clamps
— Return hose o-ring or flare seat
— Pressure hose o-ring or flare seat
— All other connections
Step 2
Fill system and repeat bleeding pr
ocedure for each possible cause.
Eliminating Noise in the Power Steering System
If you hear a whining or groaning noise originating from the pump after all air is out of
the system (if air is not out, see Spec
ial Conditions), then do the following:
Step 1
Check belts for slippage.
Step 2
Mark pulley and make sure it is not slipping on the shaft.
Step 3
With the engine running, recheck hoses for possible contact with frame, body, or engine. If
no contact is found, cool fl
uid and repressurize system.
Step 4
After cooling fluid, start engine to come up to operating temperature and recheck.
 
I've read that all the easy way is to just fill the reservoir, turn on the engine and turn the wheels left and right until the air bubbles are gone...

The common approach is to fill the reservoir, lift the front end of the car, and with engine OFF turn the wheel lock to lock many times (10 to 20, sometimes more). Refill reservoir. Start engine, turn lock to lock many times again. Refill reservoir.

The vacuum procedure helps to pull micro bubbles out of the fluid. Micro bubbles cause cavitation, which is noisy, and under extreme circumstances can cause pump wear. Micro bubbles will work out of the fluid over time. They particularly impact hydroboost brakes which is why one can't judge the pedal feel of a hydroboost for the first 500 miles or so while the fluid settles.

IMO the vacuum procedure is a "good idea", but not necessary. Just filling and firing up the engine can have the pump dry on startup, which can damage it. Most racks and steering gears act like pumps themselves, so turning the wheel sucks fluid through the pump into the rack/gear, thereby submerging the pump. You do it a lot to try to pull through any significant trapped air.
 
Hmmmm..... Maybe not.....

Note that this is written for folks with steering rams - big trucks with big wheels with wildly complicated steering systems - and hydroboost. Those systems are much larger with many more places for air to hide. It still boils down to turn the wheel a bunch before starting the engine, then start engine and turn the wheel a bunch.

It's funny that they say to run "clear" fluid, like "royal purple or red line" - both of which put dyes in the fluid.

There's also a common shadetree fix to put just a dash - couple of tablespoons or so - of ATF into the power steering fluid. ATF has anti-foaming agents that power steering fluid normally doesn't, and that can help some particularly troublesome systems.
 
Note that this is written for folks with steering rams - big trucks with big wheels with wildly complicated steering systems - and hydroboost. Those systems are much larger with many more places for air to hide. It still boils down to turn the wheel a bunch before starting the engine, then start engine and turn the wheel a bunch.

It's funny that they say to run "clear" fluid, like "royal purple or red line" - both of which put dyes in the fluid.

There's also a common shadetree fix to put just a dash - couple of tablespoons or so - of ATF into the power steering fluid. ATF has anti-foaming agents that power steering fluid normally doesn't, and that can help some particularly troublesome systems.

Thanks for chiming in. I think this method you describe above is a good one to try. I will feedback once I get this done. My time to work on it is very limited. Today doesn't look good at all.
 
I've owned my V6 for 13 years and this was the WORST JOB I had ever encountered.

Yeah, not surprised. That high pressure hose is a Rube Goldberg invention for sure. I wonder why it has to loop around on top of the crossmember only to come back to where it started. I did get the thing routed yesterday and was able to get the fitting on the pump nice and tight. Now I gotta reinstall the pump and try to slip the bracket on. Then work my way back to the steering gear installing clamps as I go. It is not fun at all. And to think I caused this for myself when trying to remove the sway bar which I'd have to say is right up there with this PS BS as a PIA job. Had to dremel the old bushings off. Oh well I got nowhere else to go and nothing to do when I get there so that's why I've got 3 LSes, to keep me out of trouble. Just discovered that the one my daughter's driving needs a clockspring. Ugh
 

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