extra battery

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dee_man08

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I was wondering if any of you have installed extra batterys in your ls' and if so where? Any pics would be nice.
 
Just about the only spot is in the trunk.


I'm not sure what you need it for but I would suggest venting it somehow to be on the safe side. I would cut the vent tube on the factory battery, place a Y connector of some sort in line and splice the new vented battery in that way placing the new battery on the drivers side of the trunk.
 
honestly, before you put a second battery in the car, you should get a higher output alternator. putting a second battery in the car will just put a more strain on the charging system. having too large of an amp does not leave enough power to charge one battery, let alone two. the first step should be to replace the battery with a high performace battery like a red or yellow top, then the alternator. competition systems use a lot of batterys because they usually can not have the car running in their class. a second battery will only help if you want to listen to the system while the car is off. good batt = 12.6 Volts - running car = 14.4 Volts.
 
i have a towncar with 3 cells..... just make sure the one in the trunk is sealed! a gel cell.
make sure you fuse at both ends. and do 0 gauge, h/o alt is allways nice to have.. im not sure how many amps a oem alt puts out on a ls.
 
How about just replacing your existing battery with a Kinetic battery? I've heard that works well...
 
I'm not wanting to go with anything that extreme. I will be running 2 punch p3 12 an a kicker 1000.1 amp plus a smaller amp for my 6.5 an 6x8, but in my last car ,an infiniti G35, every time my subs would it my lights would dim. I already have a deep cell gel battery, I think I'm just going to mount against the side of the trunk and build an eclosure to cover it. Also this might be a stupid question but do all batteries have to be vented because this one doesn't have a vent slot like my stock one?
 
no agm dont have to be vented,

with only 1500 watts you dont even need a second cell.. you said you have a agm up front.. i wont just run 0 gauge back,.. and have a distro block.. run 8g to your highs and mids amp and run 4 gauge to that amp.
 
since the rear electronics module is also in the trunk i would either up grade the stock wire from the alt to the batt with either 0 gauge or add another 4 gauge. i would also up grade the factory ground from the batt to the body and the engine to the body. ONLY 1500 watts divided by 12-14 volts is an extra 110-125 Amps that the car was not designed for!
 
the "big 3" is the (1) wire from the alt to the batt (2) wire form the batt to the body or frame, batt to ground (3) wire from the engine to body or frame, alt to ground
 
on the steve meade note: if you have not see a stereo so loud it rattles your eye balls search his youtube video for the one where the bass makes a ladie's eye ball fall out (not a real eye but a glass eye) that is officaly "more bass than a crack house"
 
huh... never knew. I'm just getting into the car audio thing. Those are only a must for larger systems, right? I'm running 1 600W RMS 12" Directed sub (dual 4 ohm coils) in a vented enclosure, but the amp I have is the Kenwood KAC-9104D. I have the sub wired at 2 ohms, which means the amp could send it 900W. I have everything turned down on the amp. I think. I really have no Idea what to set it to. Here's the pics of what I have now. Any suggestions? My head unit is the Kenwood Excelon DDX 7015. 2V RCA's. Thanks in Advance! :D

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i hate amps that have the + right next to the -. i blew an amp out once due to that.
 
honesty at my shop we do it everytime a system is over 1000 Watts, but it can help any system, the power wires in the car are usualy set up for the factory production. car designer dont want to use any more wire than what is necessary to save on weight not to mention the cost of copper theise days. but some cars are better than others, my mark VIII only had a weak a$$ 8 guage wire grounding the batt and from the alt to the batt. as far as the setting i'm not sure if the flat side of the knob is what it is set at ro if it is the other side but the sesitivity should be set to what the pre out voltage is on the head unit, and i would set the LPF crossover between 70Hz and 80Hz. as far as the bass boost that just depends on what you listen too, if you listen to music with a lot of low bass(lil john, ect) then you dont need to set that high. if you like to listen to music that doesnt have a lot of low bass(rock, country, ect) then you may want to turn it up a little
 
and 1LOUDLS i've seen that Mead video and it's hilarious. everytime i see his videos they impress me. he has stress bars in his enclosure for his 4 18's i believe. i was thinking of getting the kicker X 18" but some people told me it was garbage (not for the LS mind you)
 
rickztahone said:
i hate amps that have the + right next to the -. i blew an amp out once due to that.
Click to expand...

that is why i never stick bare wire into an amp with that type of connections:( , i will always spades that either crimp on ,or have screw sets on them
 
Thanks man! What guage wire should I use for the "big 3"? I'll do it if it will help... what exactly does it help again? The system's performance?
 
the solo X 18 is far from garbage. you will never get it into a ls though. keep in mind that it is a 10,000 watt sub it is made for spl, so it has no sound quality. it will only play the deepest notes, but it is loud, bet on that. however a set of solo x 10's or 12's will sound very good and probaly rip a LS to pieces
 
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