expected cost of wheel bearing labor?

EsaEsLaElEs

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Just wondering how much I donated for this fix?

There was a howling noise coming from the rear of the car and I was sure it was the differential. I took it to a mechanic who drove it on the highway and he would quickly turn the wheel, changing lanes, taking the load off each side of the car. When steering abruptly left the noise went away; it was a wheel hub carrier bearing - with rusting and pitting.

Considering that he was, after all, the one to diagnose this problem and being much, much simpler than the differential, we talked cost. He said "might as well do the rear brake pads as well" and then quoted me the cost that he later charged me (he didn't do the brakes).

I picked the LS up and he told me the cost, I asked if the brakes pads were replaced? He mumbled under his breath that it didn't need 'em.

What would most non-dealer mechanics charge for this job? I won't be returning to this mechanic again.
hub bearing.PNG
 
Just wondering how much I donated for this fix?

There was a howling noise coming from the rear of the car and I was sure it was the differential. I took it to a mechanic who drove it on the highway and he would quickly turn the wheel, changing lanes, taking the load off each side of the car. When steering abruptly left the noise went away; it was a wheel hub carrier bearing - with rusting and pitting.

Considering that he was, after all, the one to diagnose this problem and being much, much simpler than the differential, we talked cost. He said "might as well do the rear brake pads as well" and then quoted me the cost that he later charged me (he didn't do the brakes).

I picked the LS up and he told me the cost, I asked if the brakes pads were replaced? He mumbled under his breath that it didn't need 'em.

What would most non-dealer mechanics charge for this job? I won't be returning to this mechanic again.View attachment 828571222
This price tag was exaggerated quite a bit in my opinion ...I’m from MN as are you...the salt on our roads are hell on our cars and now it’s not even salt it’s straight liquid rust that there using ...anyway even if the Caliper was rusted along with the wheel hub assembly this job should’ve taken an hour tops so yeah this cost was extreamly high in my opinion and $63 dollars for a bearing ...Are you kidding me you could buy the entire wheel hub assembly for that price tag...you obviously must be in the metro but even so it was way over priced ...that is dealer prices
 
To me, that's a decent price for a rear wheel bearing, assuming he did a good job.
 
alright Joe, then I will stay calm and not let this bother me going forward. Seems that so far a good job on it. The markup on part is expected, which leaves me with Amster's answer as well --- even tho I never called the dealer for a quote I'm sure I would not have paid out more than this just going to the Ford dealer mechanic.

Unfortunately I'm not located anywhere near any metro area; couldn't be more rural in far southern central MN/IA border (and dude even had the part on hand).

Liquid rust is about right, HA. Old LS has held up fairly well keeping it clean throughout winters although not garaged, so alas the underside is getting frighteningly rusty and enough reason to have found a buyer. Hate to see her go and it's running every bit as strong as when I got it in summer of 2014.

Conclusion: go to dealer any day before podunk mouthy doooosh.

I'm detailing LS up nicely but it's a sad so long this weekend . . . and big thanks to LVC for all the help and great info! I might be checking C side of the LVC soon to be.
 
I have had the right rear replaced twice on my LS's. Bearing cost is a little high, but the shops mark up prices. My initial thought when I say your post is that the labor would be about $300 so in my opinion the cost is in line. Just my two cents worth. BTW, I'm from Chanhassen.
 
Thank you for the reply. People have said he's very reasonable on cost (if not much else) and I was surprised when he quoted that price including rear brakes, but then he changed his mind on that and still stuck to his word on the bill.

I won't be returning due to this guys extremely offensive demeanor and foul mouth with hateful opinion on just about everything. Quite the character.

I quote: "g*dm treehugger, I'd put a hole in your f'n crankcase with my 30 ott before i'd help you treehuggin bstrd". Storyteller that one, and on and endlessly on. Had to be there and wow!!! This guy was way to windy, opinionated and trashmouth. He was glad to have a new ear to offend, i was starting to wonder how he got any work done with so much to say and cuss about.

I will consider it a fair enough price and leave it at that. Thanks for the input!
 
alright Joe, then I will stay calm and not let this bother me going forward. Seems that so far a good job on it. The markup on part is expected, which leaves me with Amster's answer as well --- even tho I never called the dealer for a quote I'm sure I would not have paid out more than this just going to the Ford dealer mechanic.

Unfortunately I'm not located anywhere near any metro area; couldn't be more rural in far southern central MN/IA border (and dude even had the part on hand).

Liquid rust is about right, HA. Old LS has held up fairly well keeping it clean throughout winters although not garaged, so alas the underside is getting frighteningly rusty and enough reason to have found a buyer. Hate to see her go and it's running every bit as strong as when I got it in summer of 2014.

Conclusion: go to dealer any day before podunk mouthy doooosh.

I'm detailing LS up nicely but it's a sad so long this weekend . . . and big thanks to LVC for all the help and great info! I might be checking C side of the LVC soon to be.
Thank you for the reply. People have said he's very reasonable on cost (if not much else) and I was surprised when he quoted that price including rear brakes, but then he changed his mind on that and still stuck to his word on the bill.

I won't be returning due to this guys extremely offensive demeanor and foul mouth with hateful opinion on just about everything. Quite the character.

I quote: "g*dm treehugger, I'd put a hole in your f'n crankcase with my 30 ott before i'd help you treehuggin bstrd". Storyteller that one, and on and endlessly on. Had to be there and wow!!! This guy was way to windy, opinionated and trashmouth. He was glad to have a new ear to offend, i was starting to wonder how he got any work done with so much to say and cuss about.

I will consider it a fair enough price and leave it at that. Thanks for the input!

I'm not trying to be argumentative in the least but I'm not far away just a little North of you in South Central Minnesota and the day any Shop from North of the Minnesota River Valley to the South of the MN River Valley charge $300+ for a wheel bearing is the day that shop would be hurting for business I think some Mechanics think just because it's a Lincoln it can go up in price sorry not the way it works in my neck of the woods
 
What all has to be done on the rear hub to get the bearing out? Outside the obvious of wheel, brakes, and rotor. What else?

Bearings are going for $30 online. $60 is pricey, but you’re not going to get parts at cost or even retail at any shop. Aside from this guy’s view points on life, I don’t see any issues.
 
I think some Mechanics think just because it's a Lincoln it can go up in price

Very true, I noticed that, haha. Not always so funny.

What all has to be done on the rear hub to get the bearing out? Outside the obvious of wheel, brakes, and rotor. What else?

PB Blaster?

Lots of PB Blaster to loosen the rusted nut holding the spindle and knuckle!
View attachment 828568365

One search result:
Rear Hub bearing replacement
 
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Sporty Luxury can be found for "pennies on the dollar" in Redwood Falls, MN soon - had to beat the snowstorm. A last farewell picture : (
One last look underneath my LS, it was not really as frightfully rusty as described; I was recalling how rear shocks and other parts looked through and through rusted and then of course the frame rail (where they all rust) on driver side, when jacking it up started to crumble in. That was a fright. Trade in was $1095 (as expected). Has real good Nexen Aria AH7 tires. Front brake pads in April of 18. P/S pump, serpentine and A/C recharge was done April of 17. Alternator in Sept. of 15. Only 16K on c/s plastic - I believe those parts came to $1094.98, somewhat ironic,,, maybe should have sold private party. Rt rear wheel bearing, obviously. Wasn't waiting around for the left one to go bad. As rigs says with wheel bearings, replace one, replace both.

IMG_20190117_171013.jpg
 
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What all has to be done on the rear hub to get the bearing out? Outside the obvious of wheel, brakes, and rotor. What else?

Bearings are going for $30 online. $60 is pricey, but you’re not going to get parts at cost or even retail at any shop. Aside from this guy’s view points on life, I don’t see any issues.

He probably doubled the price on the bearing... But that is better than a lot of shops. Yeah... PB Blaster and a torch come in handy for getting the axle shaft out of the bearing... After that you pretty much pull the whole knuckle off the car. Then you press the hub out of the bearing one way... And the bearing out of the knuckle the other way. Assemble in reverse order.

Shimming the knuckle level on the press is a bit tricky... But necessary unless you want to tweak/break the knuckle and have to find/ buy another one.

Caliper and bracket,,, brake cable ,,, rear toe link,,, wires and axle nut all have to come off to pull the knuckle.

For someone taking their time, and no problems... I could see 4 hours @ $75 per hour being about right.

I'd agree the price was reasonable
 

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