Evo + suspension questions

[Lux]

I spent quite a while searching but havent found much information out on either subject. Where can i find information on the evo/air suspension unit, how it works, what it does, the components of it, etc.

Here's whats going on - a few weeks back my car was making some creaking sounds, it does it going over bumps and slowly through parking lots. I sprayed some wd40 on the suspension components and turned the air suspension back on (had it off because i suspect a dying compressor) well now with the addition to 17's its back making noises. I was under it doing an oil change and both upper arms are shot. Also, I sometimes almost feel like i lose power assist from the power steering isnt working correctly and when i brake sometimes the car dives to one side.

I saw the uppers from arnott for $100 bucks shipped for the pair, i see alot of posts saying to get moog or trw but im on a tight budget with the rest of the parts i need. How are the arnott uppers?

I also saw moog has an updated strut rod bushing kit, has anyone used this? I

I also noticed arnott is selling a new style compressor...or at least new to me

american air was out of stock the other day, but it looks like its back on the site. What do you guys think?

I'm hoping i dont have to replace the lowers as its not in the budget right now and i also i have a slight shimmy in the steering wheel and need to get an alignment on top of all of this.

 

[DLF]

I have the Arnott uppers, and so far, so good.

I wouldn't use anything but Ford parts on the tension strut.

 

[Lux]

I have the Arnott uppers, and so far, so good.

I wouldn't use anything but Ford parts on the tension strut.

Good to know. How many miles on the arnott uppers so far?

 

[DLF]

Good to know. How many miles on the arnott uppers so far?

Not many, I'm afraid, only a couple of thousand....

But they do have sealed joints, unlike the cheaper UCA's with the zerk fittings.

 

[Lux]

Not many, I'm afraid, only a couple of thousand....

But they do have sealed joints, unlike the cheaper UCA's with the zerk fittings.

Thanks for the info. I might have to spring for the arnott upper's right now..money is tight and i have to do something, i cant keep driving it the way it is.

 

[billcu]

I'd check the lower ball joint boots for rips or holes. The ball joints can cause creaking, and if they fail, they can cause damage to the fender as well as an accident.

 

[Lux]

I'd check the lower ball joint boots for rips or holes. The ball joints can cause creaking, and if they fail, they can cause damage to the fender as well as an accident.

I'm getting pretty bad creaking at slow turns and over bumps. The lowers look fine IIRC, the uppers are wasted.

Which causes damage to the fender if they fail, the upper, the lower, or both?

68,000 miles on the car

 

[billcu]

I've seen many photos of lower ball joints failing. I've never seen an upper fail but I'm sure it can happen.

Search for Creaking noise or broken ball joint, you're bound to find one.

 

[Lux]

I've seen many photos of lower ball joints failing. I've never seen an upper fail but I'm sure it can happen.

Search for Creaking noise or broken ball joint, you're bound to find one.

lol i've been doing lots of searching for "upper" and "control" ill give that a go, thanks again

 

[Lux]

so its getting worse, suspension is wasted with 68,000 miles on it. looked under there again tonight, lowers are getting progressively worse and now there is a nice bit of play on the passenger Strut rod bushing.

Looks like i'll be ordering new outers, poly outer boots, poly strut rod bushings (maybe OEM), arnott uppers, scp lowers, and new links. *yawn*

does anyone have the pics of ball joint failure? I saw mention of it in threads but looks like the pictures arent hosted anymore

 

[DLF]

Don't get the poly strut rod bushings for the LCA end, use only Ford parts there.....

 

[unity]

The lowers are the biggest concern as they support lateral pulls from the knuckle. The uppers are just a guide and take minimal stress.

Getting T-Bird lowers will save some cash and work fine. Uppers you can go with anyone, I would even use Arnott if cash was tight.

Also try to avoid WD-40, you probably made the issue works. WD-40 is not a real lubricant. If you ever want to destroy bicycle components, use this stuff on the chain and you will see what I mean.

 

[XLRVIII]

^^^^ that compressor in the picture is a much improved design over the stock mark 8 compressor

my 98 had one of them on it when I purchased it.

not too long ago I started having a "check air ride" message on the highway, so I pulled that compressor out and put my old "frankencompressor" with the V1 spider valve on the car.

After removing that Arnott compressor I found that the dryer had a broken alignment ear and was the cause of the issue/leak.

Since I had already installed frankencompressor onto the car I took the arnott compressor apart and was suprised at how much different both internally and externally it was from the OEM compressor.

its got a better reed type valve in the compressor head, it uses viton orings and seals versus the rubber crap in the stock compressor.

All in all it look like a much improved design.

I'm gonna put the Arnott compressor back on the car, after I clean it out and make sure it's happy.

 

[XLRVIII]

does anyone have the pics of ball joint failure? I saw mention of it in threads but looks like the pictures arent hosted anymore

you dont want to see "how ugly" it can get.

I saw a ball joint failure pic and it had destroyed the fender on the car.

when tiffs ball joint failed it failed at less than 1MPH as she was pulling into a parking spot.. LUCKILY.

5 minutes before, she was next to my car on the freeway going 75MPH.
5 minutes later and she would have been "next to my car going down the dragstrip".

IMHO it picked the perfect time to fail.. any sooner or later could have been a disaster.

 

[unity]

I had THREE ball joint failures. Once on the 96 which was at slow speed. Slight pot hole was enough to knock it free. Damage was minimal but the fender needed to be pulled.

The other two involved my 95. First time there was no fender damage. The second time, a week later, was in my gravel driveway. No damage until I threw it in reverse to get it to the back of the driveway where it sat for some time.

 

[chicken]

the creak noise could any of the front suspension parts (ball joint, tierod ends, swaybar end links etc) kinda sounds like a squeekey door. have someone move the car so it makes the noise (turn wheel, bounce, whatever) and just put your hand on the different components and you should be able to feel the squeek

as for it diving to one side when you brake that is a "brake pull" usually caused by a caliper hanging up or the other not working at all

 

[Lux]

Don't get the poly strut rod bushings for the LCA end, use only Ford parts there.....

i thought the problem was with the moog kit?

Wouldnt the poly last longer and provide better handling?

 

[Lux]

also bill at scp said the tbird lower is the same except the bushing hardness is different between the two. any truth to this?

If thats the case, i'm assuming the tbird bushing would be harder and i would rather go with that.

 

[Lux]

The lowers are the biggest concern as they support lateral pulls from the knuckle. The uppers are just a guide and take minimal stress.

Getting T-Bird lowers will save some cash and work fine. Uppers you can go with anyone, I would even use Arnott if cash was tight.

Also try to avoid WD-40, you probably made the issue works. WD-40 is not a real lubricant. If you ever want to destroy bicycle components, use this stuff on the chain and you will see what I mean.

Thanks, i wasnt trying to necessarily lubricate the suspension, but more or less track where the noise was coming from. Your right wd-40 does suck, spray lithium is much better as a "lubrication"

 

[Lux]

^^^^ that compressor in the picture is a much improved design over the stock mark 8 compressor

my 98 had one of them on it when I purchased it.

not too long ago I started having a "check air ride" message on the highway, so I pulled that compressor out and put my old "frankencompressor" with the V1 spider valve on the car.

After removing that Arnott compressor I found that the dryer had a broken alignment ear and was the cause of the issue/leak.

Since I had already installed frankencompressor onto the car I took the arnott compressor apart and was suprised at how much different both internally and externally it was from the OEM compressor.

its got a better reed type valve in the compressor head, it uses viton orings and seals versus the rubber crap in the stock compressor.

All in all it look like a much improved design.

I'm gonna put the Arnott compressor back on the car, after I clean it out and make sure it's happy.

lol what is the frankencompressor you speak of?

good to know about the rest of the stuff

 

[Lux]

you dont want to see "how ugly" it can get.

I saw a ball joint failure pic and it had destroyed the fender on the car.

when tiffs ball joint failed it failed at less than 1MPH as she was pulling into a parking spot.. LUCKILY.

5 minutes before, she was next to my car on the freeway going 75MPH.
5 minutes later and she would have been "next to my car going down the dragstrip".

IMHO it picked the perfect time to fail.. any sooner or later could have been a disaster.

good thing it didnt fail at the other times...i would be curious to see the carnage picture. I've seen some videos of marks with worn out strut rod bushings...crazy