Etc failsafe, bunch of codes

SultanGris

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Cars been running great but now all of a sudden it went into etc failsafe, turns very hard, says check advance track, service park brake, here's the codes. Sounds like possibly the coils, but there's a lot of codes so maybe something else, went from running fine to next time I started it instant etc failsafe, hard to turn, any other ideas? Thanks.

I have six disc changer, not single like it says, strange

Screenshot_20210709-170357_FORScan Lite.jpg
 
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Drove about a mile and notice speedometer doesn't work now and it said check transmission to the list of things on the screen. Assuming due to no speed input so perhaps that's the reason more than coils, getting a few more than normal misfires also, so I prolly have 2 problems, ha.
 
Yes I thought maybe that also, have no idea how to tell if a relay is bad or not though. Yes I have sunroof, no rain or carwash for couple weeks. Did get a little warm the day before this happened. Was 120 outside and I saw 232 coolant on forscan but temp guage never moved from center and overheat light never came on, I thought 230 was the trigger for that. Still been 118 here so I haven't checked fuses yet. Might do that tonight or tomorrow morning.
 
Found this thread, seems pretty similar but if course he never came back and said what happened, so likely the abs sensor or he gave up, ha

 
Have you checked the battery? If the outside temp got up to 120F it may have affected the battery, and a weak or dying battery, from what I read in previous articles, can cause havoc with the car electronics.
 
Have you checked the battery? If the outside temp got up to 120F it may have affected the battery, and a weak or dying battery, from what I read in previous articles, can cause havoc with the car electronics.
I have not, it's less than 6 months old, starts fine, but might be worth a check, thanks.
 
speed sensitive steering AKA servotronic will stop working with no abs sensor signal.

check the rears first
 
speed sensitive steering AKA servotronic will stop working with no abs sensor signal.

check the rears first
Most of what I've read seems to point that direction also. Can you test them at all or do I just need to start replacing them? Thanks.
 
Most of what I've read seems to point that direction also. Can you test them at all or do I just need to start replacing them? Thanks.
Easiest to test with an oscilloscope. Also, the ABS module should have codes set for the bad wheel speed sensors. (Note that it could be the sensor, the wiring, the module, or the reluctor (tooth) ring.
 
Easiest to test with an oscilloscope. Also, the ABS module should have codes set for the bad wheel speed sensors. (Note that it could be the sensor, the wiring, the module, or the reluctor (tooth) ring.
I have 3 abs codes but none talk about wheel sensors. Looks a little more serious than that maybe. Got b1675 b1342 and c1285. All listed in screenshot in first post. Says ECU internal fault, battery low voltage and booster solenoid output failure. Thanks
 
 
The underhood relay/fuse box has a bunch of relays with clear tops. It should be fairly easy to see if any of the relays have issues. Plus if any relay got hot... the relay case may show signs of that too.

Seems like you have an FEM communication issue too... which may (also) be power related.
 
Did you check the short battery ground cable going to the body? I had the most dash lights illuminate with rough engine operation all in a mile.
I found the body ground 6mm bolt was loose and corroded Fixed it with eighteen feet of #4 welding cable from the body ground to bottom stater bolt. Problem solved. Still had the original starter when I switch engines. Also replace the stock terminals with NAPA truck type with stainless hardware which is a little more insurance for no long term worries.

20210714_082457.jpg
 
Did you check the short battery ground cable going to the body? I had the most dash lights illuminate with rough engine operation all in a mile.
I found the body ground 6mm bolt was loose and corroded Fixed it with eighteen feet of #4 welding cable from the body ground to bottom stater bolt. Problem solved. Still had the original starter when I switch engines. Also replace the stock terminals with NAPA truck type with stainless hardware which is a little more insurance for no long term worries.

View attachment 828576289
In the trunk? Yea, looks good, nothing lose. Battery new 6 months ago. Mine runs good, just in failsafe mode, won't go over 2000rpms, have a few misfires on the monitor but you can't tell by listening or driving it.
 
You have a code saying the ABS module is bad, and you have the symptoms of a bad ABS module...
 
You have a code saying the ABS module is bad, and you have the symptoms of a bad ABS module...
Yeah with all it says and how it acts I'm thinking you're correct on that. It was fine the previous trip, must've failed on startup, didn't even make it out of driveway before it went to limp mode. I guess I try and find one of those and see what happens. Thanks.
 
It needs to have AdvanceTrac, if you have AdvanceTrac (sounds like you do). You'll have to run a calibrate routine on it (Forscan can do it).
 
It needs to have AdvanceTrac, if you have AdvanceTrac (sounds like you do). You'll have to run a calibrate routine on it (Forscan can do it).
can you tell the difference by looking at it, like say if I went to a junkyard to get one? Seems like they're about 430 bucks new and I'm sure they're not returnable so I ain't going to drop that kind of cash on a hope and a prayer, lol, thanks
 
Pull one from an LS with AdvanceTrac. AdvanceTrac button has wavy lines. Traction control button has a spinning wheel.
 

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