engine swap over heating

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lil_rick

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i got a 2002 lincoln ls v6 i just had a engine swap to it . its over heating but the temp gauge is running normal tho. im real confused about this . what could be the problem? i got water in it instead of anti freeze right now would that cause it to over heat and i tried to bleed the system but idk if i did it right. so what could cause the water to overheat but the temp gauge only gos half way? any info would be apprciated
 
If the temp gauge is normal, then what is the overheat symptom?

Bleeding correctly is critical. You need to be certain that you've followed the procedure to the letter.

Straight water isn't a huge problem, but will cause premature component failure. Don't leave it like that for too long. Coolant raises the boiling point and helps prevent rust.
 
oddball said:
If the temp gauge is normal, then what is the overheat symptom?

Bleeding correctly is critical. You need to be certain that you've followed the procedure to the letter.

Straight water isn't a huge problem, but will cause premature component failure. Don't leave it like that for too long. Coolant raises the boiling point and helps prevent rust.
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i know its over heating because ill try to take the cap off after a short drive and the water starts spitting out and the water is really hott but the temp gauge stays normal . i just dont get it .
 
lil_rick said:
i know its over heating because ill try to take the cap off after a short drive and the water starts spitting out and the water is really hott but the temp gauge stays normal . i just dont get it .
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It's a pressurized system. You're describing the way that it is supposed to work and exactly what you would expect to happen. The entire engine bays on both of mine get too hot to touch just about anything after a small to big trip.
 
lil_rick said:
i know its over heating because ill try to take the cap off after a short drive and the water starts spitting out and the water is really hott but the temp gauge stays normal . i just dont get it .
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lol your car is not overheating, thats the way it should work, when the coolant goes thew the engine block you expect it to stay cool? no. and just like he said, its all pressurized so if you take the cap off when its hot its going to release all the pressure. The ls has temp sensors all over it so you would know if something was wrong.
 
okay thank you guys ... i just was worried you know .... new engine (well new to me) didnt want it to brake down on me ... thank yall if i have any other problems im coming here first
 
joegr said:
It's a pressurized system. You're describing the way that it is supposed to work and exactly what you would expect to happen. The entire engine bays on both of mine get too hot to touch just about anything after a small to big trip.
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one more thing i only got exhaust coming out one side of my car what can cause that?
 
I had the same problem with the 1 exhaust blowing, I cut it after the cat and it was blowing from the cut so it appeared my exhaust was clogged AFTER the cat. got some new pipes and both blowing ok
 
lil_rick said:
i know its over heating because ill try to take the cap off after a short drive and the water starts spitting out and the water is really hott but the temp gauge stays normal . i just dont get it .
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lol... its fine. BE VERY CAREFUL opening that... FYI be careful around anything thats hot.... including the exhaust. ***DONT TOUCH THE CATS***
 
As far as opening the degas bottle cap, that's like opening the radiator cap on an older car. Don't do it when the engine is hot. It is NOT an overflow bottle like you find on other cars. Totally different style of system.
Note that ANY time you open EITHER of the caps in the coolant system you allow air into the system and MUST re-bleed. Also, check your coolant level when the engine is cold - you're probably low from opening the degas, the water expanding, and rushing out. I'm surprised you didn't get burned! The coolant should be between approx 210 and 230 degrees once the engine has warmed up. Especially at the degas bottle, which is on the hot side of the system.

There's a H crossover in the exhaust, so the blockage can be anywhere in the pipe, but I would expect after the crossover, which means the mufflers.

If a cat is clogged you'll have other problems, like horrible gas mileage, poor performance, etc.
 
oddball said:
As far as opening the degas bottle cap, that's like opening the radiator cap on an older car. Don't do it when the engine is hot. It is NOT an overflow bottle like you find on other cars. Totally different style of system.
Note that ANY time you open EITHER of the caps in the coolant system you allow air into the system and MUST re-bleed. Also, check your coolant level when the engine is cold - you're probably low from opening the degas, the water expanding, and rushing out. I'm surprised you didn't get burned! The coolant should be between approx 210 and 230 degrees once the engine has warmed up. Especially at the degas bottle, which is on the hot side of the system.

There's a H crossover in the exhaust, so the blockage can be anywhere in the pipe, but I would expect after the crossover, which means the mufflers.

If a cat is clogged you'll have other problems, like horrible gas mileage, poor performance, etc.
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lol i did get burned a little and i cut the muffler off on one side and the exhaust is flowing good now just gotta get a new muffler put on ...
 
jdmans101 said:
he was just being sarcastic lol, no a clogged muffler will not cause a car to overheat. Is that what you were asking?
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okay lol but now its really startin to over heat the temp gauge gos past half way when i turn the ac on and idk what will happen if i leave it off it just happened like 2 min ago
 
lil_rick said:
okay lol but now its really startin to over heat the temp gauge gos past half way when i turn the ac on and idk what will happen if i leave it off it just happened like 2 min ago
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Are you still running just water? Without the anti-freeze/water mixture, the coolant will boil too soon. This can cause air pockets which will cause overheating. Alternately, check for any pressure leaks, check the thermostat, check fan operation, check water-pump.
 
joegr said:
Are you still running just water? Without the anti-freeze/water mixture, the coolant will boil too soon. This can cause air pockets which will cause overheating. Alternately, check for any pressure leaks, check the thermostat, check fan operation, check water-pump.
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yeah im still using water and i dont see any leaks i think my fan went out because it runs but dont run fast like it should
 
A common problem is that the solenoid on the hydraulic fan pump fails, which prevents the fan from engaging full speed. Do some searches here, several folks have posted about it. I don't recall the part number off hand.
The pump and the fan itself can also fail, so some investigative work is in order. As Joe said, first task is to get a proper 50/50 water/coolant mix.

First task is to ensure that hydraulic circuit (which is separate from the power steering) is OK. The fluid is Mercon III or Mercon V, should be a nice red color, not milky, not black.
 
Who the hell told you to run water in the first place???

the car needs coolant like any other.
 
If you've been opening the system you probly have air pockets... the system needs to be properly flushed
 
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