Engine "shakes" after morning startup

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perpetualchange

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My engine has starting shaking in the morning when I start the lincoln up. It shakes for about 5 minutes, and then stops considerably.

I had this problem in the winter, where it would shake and the check engine light would come and go. As long as I waited long enough for the engine to stop shaking before driving, the check engine light wouldn't come on. The problem stopped in the spring, but as temperatures cool at night I'm not surprised to see the same thing cropping up again.

I drive a 2004 ls v.6. I've got about 90,000 miles on it.

Any idea what the problem could be?

Is this thing OK to be driving like this? Obviously I did so all winter last year, but I don't want to take any chances if I just lucked out.

Any help with diagnosing and repair is very appreciated.
 
Mine idles a little rougher when it needs an oil change, but nothing that does like what you are talking about. Have you run codes on it? Sounds like it might be a coil. Does it miss or anything under medium load?
 
Oil was changed about 3800 miles ago. Manual says change every 5000, but the oil change is something I'd like to do this weekend regardless. Regardless whether I had changed oil or not seemed to have no bearing on the issue last year. I don't think this car has ever had new plugs, so that could be it too. However I want to be sure before I take that plunge.

Some people recommended I check hoses and the vacuum.
 
What codes do you get? That could help a lot in deciding where to look first.
 
coils, isn't it always the coils?
and if there was a CEL, there is a code somewhere.
 
perpetualchange said:
No CEL thus far. I do get it if I drive off while I'm still shakey though
Click to expand...

But you said: "I had this problem in the winter, where it would shake and the check engine light would come and go."
That did set one or more codes. They stay there for several start/stop cycles after the light goes off. The next time the light comes on, get the codes read. It could be coils, EGR, vacuum leak, MAF, runner control, and so on. That's a lot to look at. Having the codes could narrow it down a lot.
 
If you are on the original coils and plugs I can almost guarantee it's failing coils. You also need plugs. I have NEVER believed in the 100K plug....... I change my plugs and coils every 50K miles. Not fixing this will most certainly kill your catalytic converters.
 
perpetualchange said:
No CEL thus far. I do get it if I drive off while I'm still shakey though
Click to expand...

is it flashing when it does this and it goes away by itself when not further under load ?

if so it's a P03XXX misfire code, it's not permanently stored, it clears itself after it finds a successful tolerance during same drive cycle.

I can "quote" you to whole internals of the misfiring calculations process from the workshop manual but there is no need.

It very much sounds like you are misfiring!

Need to replace all coils and all plugs.
 
It doesn't flash. It doesn't come on at all unless I drive away during the shaking episode.

It only did this in the morning btw, after cold nights. It did nothing at all when I went to lunch this afternoon.
 
I see ... ok, best thing to do as suggested above would be to read the codes to get a clear understanding of what going on.

Myself, I would pull over as soon as I got a CEL and read it right away.

suggested;

- obtain OBDII code reader (doesn't need to be expensive model just enough to read regular '96^ On Board II codes)
- plug in a perform RESET
- unplug OBDII reader
- take for drive (bring reader)
- pull over somewhere safe soon as it give new "Open Wallet" light.
- plug in OBDII reader and obtain fault code.

This way, you've eliminated all previously stored old codes and will be provided with a fresh new code of the fault(s) that just occurred.

~ not everyone is going to agree with me on this, I could care less, this is how I would go about finding the current given fault.
~ if there is/are more fault codes, she'll spit it back out at you in a few drive cycles.

up to you of course.
 
BigRigLS said:
...- obtain OBDII code reader (doesn't need to be expensive model just enough to read regular '96^ On Board II codes)
...
Click to expand...

One more difference with gen II is that gen II (unlike gen I) requires a CAN compatible reader. Many, but not all, OBD-II readers are.
 
Here's your "basics" diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)

P00xx - Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls.
P01xx - Fuel and Air Metering.
P02xx - Fuel and Air Metering (Injector Circuit).
P03xx - Ignition System or Misfire.
P04xx - Auxiliary Emissions Controls.
P05xx - Vehicle Speed Controls and Idle Control System.
P06xx - Computer Output Circuit.
P07xx - Transmission.
P08xx - Transmission.




Joe, I think he'll be alright unless he's shopping at a vintage store. lol

2008: All cars sold in the United States are required to use the ISO 15765-4 signaling standard (a variant of the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus)


btw:
why everyone using the term CEL and not MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) ?

Check Engine Light vs. Malfunction Indicator Lamp = no real difference.
 
Us old folks first heard that light called the check engine light. In fact, the light used to read "CHECK ENGINE."
 
Also...
Directly from the owner's manual:

Check engine: The Check Engine
indicator light illuminates when the
ignition is first turned to the ON
position to check the bulb. Solid
illumination after the engine is started indicates the On Board
Diagnostics System (OBD-II) has detected a malfunction. Refer to On
board diagnostics (OBD-II) in the Maintenance and Specifications
chapter. If the light is blinking, engine misfire is occurring which could
damage your catalytic converter. Drive in a moderate fashion (avoid
heavy acceleration and deceleration) and have your vehicle serviced
immediately.
 
joegr said:
Us old folks first heard that light called the check engine light. In fact, the light used to read "CHECK ENGINE."
Click to expand...

I've always known it as the "Open Wallet" light.

lol
 
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